American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Coast Range, Mongol Peaks, Monarch Icecap

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Mongol Peaks, Monarch Icecap, Coast Range. A Mountain Travel (USA) expedition spent three weeks from July 18 to August 9 in the area around Ape Lake. We ascended a new route on East Mongol up its northwest ridge, reaching this from the glacier to the north. It was an easy and enjoyable ascent except for a rather nasty schrund problem to gain the col between the east and central Mongol. The climbers were Bob Cuthbert, Dick Young, Bruce and Arthur Ourieff, Brent Miller, Crawford Hill, Kelly Houghton, Dick Dietz, George Barnwell and I. The same people plus John Amatt made the first ascent of the peak (tentatively North Mongol) between Central Mongol and Mount Fyles. After roping for a pitch crossing the schrund, we had an easy third-class scramble up the peak’s south ridge.

Gary Colliver

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