North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan on Skis

Publication Year: 1971.

Mount Logan on Skis. Arno Dennig, Gerwalt Pichler, Bruno Kraker and Hanns Schell of Austria, Karl Hub of Germany, and Hugo Dietrich and I of Alaska left Glenallen on May 4 for the Logan Glacier with Jack Wilson’s Air Service. By the 5th we were at 8500 feet on the Quintino Sella Glacier. On May 10 our camp was at King Col right under King Peak. Two camps and six days later we climbed three minor peaks on the western rim of the Logan plateau. On May 18 we ski-climbed the 18,600-foot summit right above the research camp, which we also visited finding only markers and a shovel. On May 19 we moved our camp up to the rim at about 18,000 feet. Leaving camp at five A.M. we ascended to a saddle and then skied down to the plateau itself. Skiing around the west peak, we followed the valley up to a saddle and on up a steep slope and along a ridge to the main summit, where we arrived at five P.M. We made a quick descent on our skis and then had a tiresome climb up to the rim. At nine o’clock we were all back at our high camp. Everyone reached the summit. On May 25 we were picked off the glacier by Wilson.

Sepp WEBER, Mountaineering Club of Alaska