American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, South Atrak Zom, Istor-o-Nal Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

South Atrak Zom, Istor-o-Nal Group. The expedition of the Sapporo Medical University was led by Masaji Matsuura and composed of Toshio Murata, Akira Nishio and Tetsuhiko Nakamura. From Base Camp at 14,100 feet at the tongue of the South Atrak Glacier, camps were placed at 15,750 and 18,375 feet. On August 22 South Atrak Zom (20,476 feet) was climbed by Matsuura, Nishio and Nakamura via the 19,700-foot col between this peak and Istor-o-Nal East. The next day Murata, who had been staying at Camp II, was descending with the other members when he lost his balance and fell into a crevasse, seriously injuring his head. He was carried all the way to Barenis, not without difficulties, and there he breathed his last in spite of all the devotion of the members.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.