American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Challenger, Southeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Mount Challenger, Southeast Face. On July 27 Martin Epp, Ernst von Allmen and I climbed this route above Luna Creek, starting from the col between the face and the prominent gendarme. We followed the yellow dièdre until close to the overhanging section, traversed right a half rope-length on flakes, and then ascended the pillar above directly for two rope-lengths to a prominent horizontal dike. We could have continued directly for another rope-length of difficult F6, but chose to traverse left and up along the dike to a pedestal, from where we headed up and right to meet the direct route at a grassy ledge. Another full rope-length attained the snow dome, from where a short traverse along the ridge gained the true summit. Grade III, F6.

Andrew Carson, unattached

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