North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Challenger, Southeast Face

Publication Year: 1969.

Mount Challenger, Southeast Face. On July 27 Martin Epp, Ernst von Allmen and I climbed this route above Luna Creek, starting from the col between the face and the prominent gendarme. We followed the yellow dièdre until close to the overhanging section, traversed right a half rope-length on flakes, and then ascended the pillar above directly for two rope-lengths to a prominent horizontal dike. We could have continued directly for another rope-length of difficult F6, but chose to traverse left and up along the dike to a pedestal, from where we headed up and right to meet the direct route at a grassy ledge. Another full rope-length attained the snow dome, from where a short traverse along the ridge gained the true summit. Grade III, F6.

Andrew Carson, unattached