American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks near Scott Peak, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Peaks near Scott Peak, Alaska Range. Eric Townsend, Doug Worth and I left Eielson Visitors Center in McKinley Park and walked southeast up Sunset Glacier to the end of the northeast arm, where icefalls blocked further progress. We made the following ascents, all first ascents except for P 7815: P 7815 (1 mile northwest of Scott Peak; first ascent by Bradford Washburn et al., 1953) on July 12. From the base of the icefall we went north up a snow gully to a plateau from which we followed the summit ridge to the top; P 7940 (2 miles northeast of Scott Peak) on July 13. From 5300 feet on the unnamed glacier northeast of P 7815 we followed the catwalk ridge to the east and finally to the summit. P 8331 (½ mile south-southeast of P 7940) on July 13. From P 7940 we descended south-southeast along the ridge below to a pass. From there ropes are needed to ascend an airy ridge and 30° snow and ice to the top. P 8084 (1 mile east of P 8331) on July 16. From the glacier east of P 8331 we climbed the long scree slope to the northeast to the ridge, which we followed south past a false peak and up ice, where we cut steps, and on to the summit. We departed by way of the north-northwest canyon, which led us to the road, but we do not recommend this route because of a dangerous stream crossing.

Steven Lee Bowen, Convair Recreation Association Adventurers Club

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