Mt. McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs, by Terris Moore. College, Alaska. University of Alaska Press, 1967. Distributed by University of Washington Press. 202 pages, many photographs, 8 maps. Price $6.95. Mount McKinley is superlative in several respects; for its beauty; for its proximity to the Arctic Circle; for its great height above its surroundings; for being the highest mountain in a National Park; for the amazing claim of the first ascent by Frederick Cook; and for the nature of the first ascent of the North Peak by the Sourdough Party. Terris Moore’s book brings together the history of the early climbs in an absorbing and richly-documented story. The book is of much significance to the American Alpine Club; for the refuting of Cook’s claim is intimately interwoven with the early history of the Club (see also the photographs made by the Washburn-Carter expeditions in 1956-7 A.A.J., 1958, 1–30). In addition, interviews with members of the Sourdough Party were made by Norman Bright and Francis Farquhar. It is fitting that Terris Moore should have undertaken and written this important book in view of his long association with the mountain—he was one of those who made the third ascent (1942); he was President of the University of Alaska (1949–53); and it is evident that McKinley has drawn him to it for years, as it has Brad Washburn.

The book describes the discovery and early history of the mountain; the first attempts to climb it by Wickersham and Cook; the return by Cook in 1906 and his strange side trip which was followed by his claim of the first ascent; the Sourdough Expedition and the resultant confusion; and the thrilling near-success by Parker and Belmore Browne, which just preceded a mighty earthquake. During their return, they say that they “drifted down silent streams where the leaping grayling flashed in the air; camped on birch-covered flats where moose, wet from the river, stampeded among our excited dogs; floated past sun-drenched banks where Canada geese splashed, honking, from our path.” Surely a vivid glimpse of the wilderness as it was! The first ascent by the Stuck party is then described, and the tragedy to Carpé and Koven in 1932. An epilogue tells of Moore’s own ascent.

The book quotes liberally and appropriately from the writings of those who were concerned with the pioneer climbs. Francis Farquhar has written the introduction. A fine book which compiles the history of a great American adventure.

Thomas H. Jukes