American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The following activities are the more notable ones in which our members participated during 1966: In Alaska’s Chugach Range first ascents were made of Mount Rumble (7350 feet) by Vin Hoeman and David Meyers, Eagle Peak (6955 feet) by Bill Hauser and Bill Babcock, and Polar Bear (6614 feet) by Clarence Serfoss and Vin Hoeman. Art Davidson joined Fred Beckey’s first ascent of Mount Seattle (10,185 feet) in the St. Elias Range. Two M.C.A. members, Vin Hoeman and Dave Johnston, joined Pete Robinson to form the Alaskan Andean Expedition, whose aim was "… a reconnaissance of the whole mountain system by climbing something in each Andean country, the highest point when feasible, seeing and photographing much of the rest.” The three-man party was very successful and climbed Guatemala’s Volcan Tajumilco (13,816 feet), Colombia’s Nevado del Ruiz (17,700 feet), Ecuador’s Chimborazo (20,574 feet), Peru’s Huascarán (22,205 feet), and to the 14,500-foot level of Argentina’s Aconcagua in April. Art Davidson and Dave Johnston were part of a five-man group that spent 40 days climbing the Cathedral Spires, a Yosemite-like, granite cliff area southwest of Mount McKinley. They were successful in putting a route up the highest peak (8985 feet).

On June 21 a dinner was held to enable many of us to meet and hear talks by Eric Shipton, President of The Alpine Club (London), and H. Adams Carter, Editor of the American Alpine Journal.

A brief climbing course was again held by the club as it has been for the past several years. More indoor sessions were held so that the outdoor time could be better utilized. A club-organized climb was made in the western Chugach of at least one each month on the average.

Hans R. van der Laan, President

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