Antizana Sur. Two Ecuadorians, Rómulo Pazmino and Leonardo Droira, and I made the first ascent of Antizana Sur (18,275 feet) in the Cordillera Oriental. We attempted the peak three times, reaching on the second attempt a point 100 feet below the summit after fifth-class rock climbing at 18,000 feet. The mountain has 3500 to 4000 vertical feet of ice and snow. Our route followed a gentle glacier on the northwest to camp at 16,000 feet, just below an icefall. We climbed a west ridge. The final part involved a long exposed traverse of 60° rotten snow and ice on the north face followed by a short 80° ice couloir. On August 22 we gained the summit, possibly at that time the highest unclimbed peak in Ecuador.

Edwin Bernbaum, Harvard Mountaineering Club