Iowa Mountaineers

Publication Year: 1964.

Iowa Mountaineers. Most of the club’s efforts on week-ends were channeled toward developing strong rock climbers, and especially leaders. Phil Fowler, vice-president of the club, assisted by Barbara Thomas, Richard Schori and James Kolotronis, spent almost every weekend the year- around training young climbers. The outings were held at the Mississippi Palisades in Illinois, Devils Lake in Wisconsin, and Kepler State Park in Iowa. As a result, at least 20 climbers passed from the novice stage to strong class 5 rock climbers. A climbing guide on the Mississippi Palisades area was also completed and will be published in the forthcoming club journal.

The 1963 Summer Camp under the direction of John Ebert, and the on-outing direction of Harvey Carter was held in the Colorado’s Pikes Peak Crags Area. Eighty-seven members participated, and the emphasis was again placed in developing capable rock climbers. The camp marked a cornerstone in organized club technical climbing because of the abundance of serious ascents accomplished. Statistically, more than 400 belayed pitches were climbed during 70 ascents of difficult pinnacles ranging from 50 feet to 600 feet. A dozen new routes were climbed on the fine high-altitude granite, and first ascents were accomplished on Old Ironsides, God Rock and The Whale. A 500-foot, class 6, new route was pioneered on the east side of Pikes Peak. The ascent of the "Crater-Bastion Route” on Pikes Peak involved seven long and difficult leads of an exposed nature. A few of the other ascents included: the second, third and fourth ascents of the west buttress of Pink Bastion; second, third and fourth ascents of the “Hunter Route” on Big Marroni; first and second complete ascents of Banana Rock via the southwest crags; and a new route on the west face of Sentry Rock. The climbing leaders included Harvey Carter, Pete Croff, John Evans, Bill Echo, Harold Goodro, Hans Gmoser, Dick Long, Arthur Spaulding, Steve Strafford, Rick Tidrick, and Charles Wal- smith. Many members were afield during the past year. Dan Doody and Allen Auten were on the Everest Expedition; Hans Gmoser led a party up the Wickersham Wall on Mount McKinley in Alaska; and Harold Walton led a 40-member party to the Cordillera Blanca range in Peru. John Ebert also led a small party in Peru in order to scout out the potential campsite locations for the club’s 1965 expedition.

The Club again sponsored a popular color adventure film-lecture series. Over 15,000 persons attended the programs. The monthly clubhouse programs attracted an average of 51 members and the 25 week-end outings an average of 31 members. The club membership was the largest in recent years. The 1964 Summer Camp will be held in the Kananaskis Range of Alberta, Canada, from August 10 to August 22, and a 25- member party under the leadership of John Ebert will climb in Europe from July 25 to August 23.

Phil Fowler and John Ebert