American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Arctic, Italian East Greenland Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Italian East Greenland Expedition. During the summer an Italian expedition, led by Guido Monzino of Milan, visited the Staunings Alps on the east coast of Greenland. The team, composed mostly of Alpine guides of Valtournanche, flew from Iceland to Mesters Vig, a Danish station in Kong Oscars Fjord at 72° lat. They had hoped to make the ascent of Petermann Peak at the head of Kaiser Franz Joseph Fjord, but heavy ice in Kong Oscars Fjord prevented sailing in. For that reason they climbed on the east side of the Staunings Alps. From Mesters Vig they reached a Danish mine in the Tunnelv valley and from the mine the Skeldal, a glacial valley, crossing a col of about 1500 feet. From Skeldal they traveled over the Bersaerker Glacier, making four camps to reach the head of the glacier. From Camp V at 4500 feet in a col above, they climbed a nice rock peak of 6700 feet, a first ascent and the first Italian climb in the Staunings Alps.

Pietro Meciani, Club Alpino ltaliano

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