American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Shuksan, North Rib

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Mount Shuksan, North Rib. Mount Shuksan’s north rib located between the north face route and the northeast Price Glacier route was first climbed by John Holland, Steve Marts, Jerry Feucht, and me. The common approach for north face routes was used by traversing from Shuksan Arm and then around the mountain’s north side to the bottom of the north face glacier. Beyond the glacier we crossed a rock outcrop, passing about 200 feet below a prominent rock pinnacle, and then angled left on a portion of the Price Glacier to the bottom right side of the rib. Once on the rib we climbed and angled left to its crest, continuing on rock and snow up the crest to a large gendarme which was passed on the left. From the gendarme’s upper notch the route continued right of the crest on rock and then directly on the snow crest to the top of the north shoulder. The summit pyramid was then climbed by its northeast ridge. A bivouac was made on the rib about 500 feet below the north shoulder on a very spacious ledge. The route was Class 3 and 4 with the main difficulty being very poor rock.

Dan Davis, The Mountaineers

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