American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Campanile Esloveno, Northeast Face, and Torre Astilla, Catedral Group, Bariloche

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1960

Campanile Esloveno, Northeast Face, and Torre Astilla, Catedral Group, Bariloche. Dinko Bertoncelj of the Club Andino Bariloche and José Luis Fonrouge of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Campanile Esloveno, a huge granite tooth about 6900 feet in altitude in the Catedral group just south of Bariloche. Bertoncelj made the first ascent of this peak with Francisco Jerman by its southeast ridge in 1952. Fonrouge made the fourth ascent last year by the same route. This new route is probably the most difficult rock climb yet made in the Argentine, much being grade VI. The climbers surmounted a series of dihedrals, overhangs and chimneys, rising about 500 feet vertically. On February 17, 1960, they climbed the first half in five hours and descended, leaving fixed ropes. The next day they completed the ascent in another five hours. They used 18 pitons, two wedges and four expansion bolts. On February 16 the same team, accompanied by Anselmo Weber, had made the first ascent of the Torre Astilla (Splinter Tower) between the Campanile Esloveno and the main tower of the Cerro Catedral.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche and JoaquÍn Allolio, Centro Andino Buenos Aires

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.