Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge. The east ridge of Bugaboo Spire was climbed for the first time on August 8 by two ropes: J. M. Turner and R. D. Sykes; D. Croft and D. Isles. We scrambled to the Bugaboo- Crescent col from the south side and roped-up on the terrace beneath the steep portion of the ridge. The route took a crack up the center of the ridge, bearing left by a series of flakes to a ledge overlooking the southeast face. From here a steep gangway curves back to the crest of the ridge, above which a long crack gives access to the first major break in the ridge. Two cracks split the wall above; the right-hand one was taken, moving left at the level of a large spike to gain an easy chimney. The 500 feet of climbing to this point had been consistently easy to moderate fifth class. The chimney was followed without difficulty to the second break, and from here two more fifth class pitches led to the summit ridge. A rappel was made over a small gendarme, and the summit was reached five hours after roping up. No pitons were required for direct aid, but about twelve were used for belays and protection. Descent was by the ordinary route.

J. M. Turner, Alpine Club of Canada