Forbidden Peak, Direct East Ridge. Over the Memorial Day weekend, Fred Beckey, Joe Hieb, Ed Cooper, and Don Claunch left Seattle for Cascade Pass country and Forbidden Peak, the majestic pyramid north of the Cascade valley. The true east ridge had never before been attempted because of several gendarmes and steep walls. The previous ascents here had been on relatively big ledges considerably below the actual crest. The climb was an excellent one on 4th class rock with an occasional piton for safety. A traverse just below the crest was over great exposure with the Boston Glacier directly, but far below. There were three main gendarmes, the final one unexpectedly difficult, requiring pitons for safety and a very airy traverse on tiny balance-holds on one side.

Don G. Claunch