North America, United States, Washington, North Face of Golden Horn

Publication Year: 1959.

North Face of Golden Horn. Golden Horn, at the head of the scenic west fork of the Methow, is an imposing rock castle from the north and east. Unfortunately for the climber it lies a long way from the Methow road and the granite is a very scaly, loose substance. Hiking in via Horse-heaven, Duke Watson and Fred Beckey camped at a lovely double lakelet at timberline in the shadow of the northwest amphitheater of the Golden Horn. From camp the climb appeared quite difficult, but on July 27 we detected a great angular gully bisecting the north wall. From the ridge north of the peak we climbed up the gullies and loose rock-walls alongside this great gully, generally unroped. The crucial point was a left traverse onto a great chockstone; two pitons were placed for safety here. Above, the climb was straightforward. Descent was by the same route.

Fred Beckey