Ron’s Tower, First Ascent. This tower was climbed by Steve Anderson, Bill Duncan, and Matt Simpson at II 5.8 A2-. The first ascent follows obvious cracks up the south face. All aid is clean. Ron s Tower is reached by a float trip down the Colorado...
Thanks to a Mugs Stump Award grant, Scott DeCapio and I were dropped by Talkeetna Air Taxi on May 10 at our new home below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. Despite much base camp laziness, we made numerous attempts (as defined by at least carrying ou...
Mt. Rainier. The year 1945 marks the seventy-fifth anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Rainier, which was made on August 17th, 1870, by General Hazard Stevens. General Stevens was the guest of honor of the club and described the ascent at the f...
FALL THROUGH ICE BRIDGEWashington, Mt. OlympusOn August 15, 1980, Peter McKay (29) broke through an ice bridge while descending from Mt. Olympus. He punctured his left leg in the area of the knee. By the next day he was unable to walk until late i...
FALLING ROCK – BLOCK PULLED OFFNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Hail PeakAfter breakfast and coffee, Sinjin Eberle and I set out to have a nice day for a multi pitch 5.8 climb of Hail Peak on May 9, Mother’s Day. The weather was warm and st...
Tirich Mir West I, Attempt. We wanted to open a new line on the south face of Tirich Mir West I (7487 m), but unstable snow and ice made us decide to follow the 1967 Czech route. On July 21 we established Base Camp (4700 m). Cl was ready on July 2...
Sentinel Tower, Totem Pole, East Face, Monument Valley. A De Chelly sandstone formation located just inside the Navajo Tribal Park on the southwest comer of Sentinel Mesa, Sentinel Tower, was climbed by Stan Mish and Dan Longmade (III, 5.9). A pre...
STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIACalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 29, 1982, about 0915, visiting rock climber Doug Furrier reported to Valley District Rangers that he had just heard cries for help coming from The Nose on El Capitan. Rangers Mik...
Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Each year there is more climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. The first expedition in 1987 was composed of Colombians Fernando Pizzaro and Daniel Herrera, who climbed Tocllaraju on April 26. A few new routes were made...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Medicine SlabsOn June 10, 1984, two climbers (24 and 28) left Jacques Lake picnic area in Jasper National Park at 0500 intending to traverse the ridge of Medicine Slabs to its h...
DEHYDRATION, UNABLE TO GET TO MITTENS–FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibOn May 3rd, the three-member expedition, Rocky Mountain West Rib, led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, flew in to the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the West Rib. On the 17th, they ...
Indira Col, Sia Kangri and Saltoro Kangi. (Editor’s Note: Although this is placed under Pakistan, one must bear in mind that this is disputed territory and is considered India by Indians.) After driving to Panamik, the Indian Army Eastern Karakora...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-GLISSADINGBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount ResplendentOn August 25, a party of four summited Mount Resplendent. On the descent, they chose to glissade a steep snow slope, near the base of the Mousetrap, ...
Annapurna II Tragedy. Klaus and Jochen Schlamberger, Hans Gsellmann and I tried to climb Annapurna II by the north face and northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. We were at Base Camp at 15,100 feet on April 11 but were held there by bad weather until A...
Mount Thor, North Ridge, Chugach Range, Winter Ascent. Leo Americus and I spent four days skiing the 32 miles to the base of the north side of Mount Thor via the Nelchina and Sylvester Glaciers, starting on February 10. From there we made the firs...
Gaurishankar Attempt and Tragedy. After establishing Base Camp at 4200 meters and an Advance Base, two Japanese climbers, the only members of the expedition, reached their high point of 6500 meters on May 2 on the south Face of Gaurishankar just u...
Pamiagdluk Island, Kangerdluarssuk Fjord, Baron and other peaks, new routes, exploring, and mapmaking. On July 8, 12 members of the Karabiner Mountaineering Club left the UK on the complex journey to Pamiagdluk Island, near Cape Farewell, South Gr...
Annapurna South Face Ascent and Tragedy. On December 20, Noboru Yamada, Yasuhira Saito, Teruo Saegusa and Toshiyuki Kobayashi reached the summit of Annapurna, completing the first winter ascent of the south face and the first ascent of the mountai...
Pico de la Plata. This massive mountain (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) has two summits: Cerro and Pico. The latter is some 150 meters lower. The Cerro’s steep east face has been climbed in both summer and winter, whereas no winter ascent had been made...
Middle Palisade, East Face. On August 31, Tim Ryan and I climbed a new route on the east face of Middle Palisade (14,040 feet). We cramponed up to the highest point of the glacier. Tim led the first pitch, the most difficult of the climb; this del...