Book Reviews AAJ
Cloud Walkers

Cloud Walkers, by Paddy Sherman. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1965. l6l pages, 17 photographs. Price $5.95.Paddy Sherman, a Canadian, skillfully intermixes men, mountains and enough historical background of famous climbs to make very interesting ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Passu Sar, Attempt

Passu Sar, attempt. Believing it to be still unclimbed and therefore one of the highest unclimbed summits in the Karakoram, a five-man Australian team led by myself booked Passu Sar (7478m). This peak is situated between Shispare and the Batura Gr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt and Tragedy

Everest Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition had eleven Korean members and three Japanese. I was general leader and Korean Roh Jong-Baek was leader. We established Base Camp at 5200 meters on August 25. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 6200, 680...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Kommunizma

Pik Kommunizma. I led a 10-member Polish team to the International Soviet Pamir Camp in 1984. All, including the three women, managed to climb Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet). Starting on July 27, Ewa Panejko-Pankiewicz and Amalia Kaplon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Japanese Post-Monsoon Expedition

Mount Everest, Japanese Post-Monsoon Expedition. For the first time ever Mount Everest was climbed in the post-monsoon period when the Japanese Hiachi Ishiguro and Yazuo Kato reached the summit on October 26. They were members of a 48-man expediti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Winter Ascents

Ama Dablam Winter Ascents. Five expeditions climbed Ama Dablam by its normal southwest ridge in the last month of 1992. Five Swiss were under the leadership of Franco Dellatorre, who reached the summit alone on December 1. Five Belgians and a Swis...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Fall to Ground, Unfamiliar with Equipment, Wyoming Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

RAPPEL ERROR - FALL TO GROUND, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAround 1330 on August 7, Merry Carney (47) was unable to maintain her rappel, zipping down the rope approximately 50 feet to the ground. She had...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Ranrapalca, North Spur, Cordillera Blanca

Ranrapalca, North Spur, Cordillera Blanca. On August 29 and 30, Britons Joe Simpson and Rick Potter climbed a new route on Ranrapalca (6162 meters, 20,216 feet), the north spur. This lies to the left of the ascent made in 1975 by Johns, Slaymaker ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming, Teewinot

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Wyoming, TeewinotOn August 8, Adam Gymrek (22) and Dirk Murphy were descending a couloir on Teewinot’s East Face. At 0830, Gymrek slipped while attempting to descend a slab of rock. He fell several feet and twiste...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Overview

Overview. In 2007 Pakistani authorities received 91 applications to climb various peaks, of which 83 were approved, including 14 applicants who were granted permission to climb two peaks each, one three peaks, and another four peaks. Two expeditio...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Various Ascents

Kichatna Spires, Various Ascents. Kevin Thaw (U.K.) and Calder Stratford established two new routes in the Kichatna Spires. The pair first established Dreams of Sea on the south buttress of Peak 8400. The route is comprised of seven 60-meter pitch...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Idaho, Rocky Canyon

FALLING ROCK Idaho, Rocky CanyonOn Sunday, April 25, I was involved in a rock climbing accident in Rocky Canyon and was able to experience technical rescue from the patients perspective.David Anjelkovich, Sara Pedde and I decided to climb a bolted...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu Attempt

Cho Oyu Attempt. Four Japanese led by Ryoichi Fukada attempted to climb Cho Oyu by the normal route, but they had to turn back at 7800 meters on August 31.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Pikes Peak

Colorado, Pikes Peak—On 12 August, Mrs. Inestine B. Roberts (88), had made her 14th climb of Pikes Peak. She started the descent but night fell and she bivouaced which had been her custom on previous climbs. She was seen on the 13th and reported a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Group, North Howser Spire, West Face, First Free Ascent

North Howser Tower, West Face, First Free Ascent. On the evening of August 14, Kennan Harvey and I hiked to the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col on the way to the remote west face of the North Howser Tower. The next morning we descended to the base of the fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Face. A Swiss group from Bern led by Martin Fischer managed to climb the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face. Three men reached 7700 meters and one of them, Christoph Häuter gained the summit on July 8. A Basqu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Fall Into Crevasse, Poor Position, Weather, Inadequate Preparation, British Columbia, Mount Robson

AVALANCHE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INADEQUATE PREPARATIONBritish Columbia, Mount RobsonA party of three (Party One) and a party of two (Party Two) were climbing Mount Robson via the Kain route on July 9. They set up camp in whi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Aconcagua, Ascent and Attempt

Aconcagua, Ascent and Attempt. Todd Hoffman, Tom Douglas, and I summited Aconcagua via the normal route at 2 p.m. on January 31, having spent a total of eight days on the mountain. After acclimatizing on the normal route, Todd Hoffman, Gabe Schlum...


Accident Reports AAJ
Northern Cascades: (3) Mt. Index, Washington

Northern Cascades: (3) Mt. Index, Washington. During the first week of October 1947, there occurred a tragic accident which has not yet been fully explained. Two young men named Franklin and Westphal, each 17 years of age and with a minimum of cli...


Notes AAJ
Word from Munich

Word from Munich. Mr. W. R. Rickmers, writing from Munich, states that about half of the Alpine Museum has survived, but the Alpenvereinsbücherei of 40,000 volumes, as well as all maps, prints and manuscripts (among them the Führerbücher), was tot...