Mazeno RidgeNanga Parbat’s 10~kilometer ridge caps a multi~peak Pakistan Summer, albeit without an 8,000m summit.Doug ChabotSteve Swenson pulled a photo out of his back pocket. “We should do this,” he prodded, showing me the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge...
The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick Colton, Ed Douglas, Julian Freeman-Attwood, and Rob Greaves. In 2007 Colton and Freeman-Attwood had been part of a team tha...
RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SLING CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock.On April 17, Charles Comstock (34) and Jay Schifferdecker (27) hiked up the third-class approach ramps to the Chouinard-Herbert route...
Crescent Tower. On the Crescent Tower, Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic climbed a new route, West Side Story (270 meters, III 5.10a).Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije
Kangchenjunga, southwest face, partial new route/direct finish, La Luce del Nirvana. Of the five expeditions attempting 8,586m Kangchenjunga, two were successful with all summiteers reaching the top on the same day. Four of these teams were attemp...
Reru Valley, various ascents. In August nine young climbers from Geneva, with guides Stéfane Schaffer and I, climbed three new peaks in the Reru Valley. From Leh it took three days by vehicle to reach the village of Reru, from where we took horses...
The KarakoramWhatever your game, the Karakoram has itStephen Venables, EnglandThe Editor asked me to do something on “modern trends” on the smaller Karakoram peaks—a survey of the “small is beautiful” antidote to big-number ticking, with an emphas...
Changabang, west face, Boardman-Tasker Route, attempt. The boulders basked in the sun, 9½km of them, wave after wave of rock misery. Waiting. The chance of breaking an ankle, breaking a leg, or being trapped by two closing together like the doors ...
Nanda Devi East, Northeast Ridge Attempt and South Ridge Ascent. Our attempt on the northeast ridge of Nanda Devi East failed because a lack of snow gave rise to objective dangers. We moved to the south ridge and made the first alpine-style ascent...
Cerro Cuerno, Southwest Face, First Romanian Ascent. On February 19 and 20, C. Lacatusu and O. Batar made the first Romanian ascent of Cerro Cuerno (5462 m) via the southwest face with on bivouac 70 meters below the summit. It was a very nice rout...
Northern Cascades: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District, Washington. On 14 September 1947 a girl fell from Guye Peak while she was descending unroped, in the dark. She was seriously injured. She had done no previous climbing, and the two others in the par...
Matterhorn. During the summer of 1946 an additional ascent of the North Face was made. The full list is now as follows: (1) Franz and Toni Schmid, 31 July 1931; (2) Schmidbauer and Leis, 16-19 July 1934; (3) Dr. Bauer and Hermann Steuri, 24 July 1...
Wasatch Range, Ski Traverse. It was reported that Doug Byerly, Jon Allen and Lome Glick made perhaps the first “high ski traverse” of the Wasatch Range. Starting at the southern end of the range with Mt. Nebo, the trio spent 23 days covering 250 m...
The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. On June 25, 1998, Zack Smith and I made the second ascent of The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs on the Eye Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. Our first attempt end...
Mt. McKinley Park. Parties travelling from the road near Wander Lake and crossing the McKinley Fork (draining Muldrow Glacier), and then crossing several headwaters of Clearwater Creek, finally turn up Newcomer Creek and cross a ridge at its head ...
About 10:30 a.m. on July 31, 1980, Donald Morgan (48) who was leading one of two roped teams descending the Emmons Glacier, lost control of his sitting glissade when he dropped his right leg; this caused his crampon to catch in such a way that i...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Bloody CrackIn late November, two people began climbing Bloody Crack (5.8), a popular rock climb on the south side of Looking Glass. The fir...
Tirich Mir, North-Northwest Face, Attempt. A seven-member Spanish Tirich Mir expedition led by Carlos Soria Fontan (56) made an unsuccessful attempt on the north-northwest face route on Tirich Mir (7706 m). The group was attempting to make the sec...
Winter Ice Climbs. In March Bill Robins and I climbed a new frozen waterfall located in Santiquin Canyon. This climb—Angel of Fear—consisted of a single, mostly detached 200-foot pillar of ice. We ascended the left side of the pillar, up much over...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 26, 1982 John Rahhal (22) broke a tibia and fibula when he fell from a climb called “Doggie Deviation” in Camp IV. He was 15–16 meters off the ground when his foot slipped out of a crack. He fell about...