FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, "TOO RELAXED"Arizona, Cochise StrongholdEver since my fall I have been reliving the events of that day, but I have also been psychoanalyzing why I fell. I can still vividly see the fall. I have also po...
Koh-i-Morsurq and Other Peaks, Suigal. The members of the party were R.D. Barton, I.A. Napier, D.G. Peers, D. Robinson, J.G. Tyler and I. [.Editor’s note: All were first ascents except for those marked *, which indicates a new route, or marked **,...
El Monstruo, La Gran Raja. Jerzy Stefanski and I (both Polish) created a new line on the previously unclimbed east wall of El Monstruo. After transporting our equipment to Barranca Pass (sort of our advanced base camp), we descended the next morni...
Chomo Lönzö, Attempt. The object of the expedition was the first ascent of Chomo Lönzö’s Middle Peak via the southwest face and northwest ridge. We were Eduard Birnbacher (leader, Germany), Walter Hölzler and Stefan Wiebel from Germany and Manfred...
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAn eight-member expedition climbed from 7,200 feet to 14,200 feet in three days via the West Buttress. On May 14, eight days after the start of their climb, the expedition arrived at the...
Cerro Adela, Asamblea de Majaras. Alvaro Novellón, Oscar Perez, Santi Padrós, and I had hoped to climb Cerro Torre, going directly to the Col of the Hope via A la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Marsigny-Parkin) and continuing to the summit by the Ferra...
Norman Clyde of the Sierra Nevada, by Norman Clyde, with Foreword by Francis Farquhar, Prologue by Jules Eichorn, and a long letter by Smoke Blanchard. San Francisco: Scrimshaw Press, 1971. 180 pages, 20 photographsWe … proceeded down the canyon, ...
I’m not sure why I first visited the Karavshin, but since my first visit in 1998 I have returned four times. The place stays the same, yet with every visit I find something new. This year we went early and summited on June 30. I saw nothing famili...
Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer of 2003 our group—Mikhail Daineko, Dmitrii Konilov, Mikhail Ageev, Anna Perever-zeva, and myself as lea...
Manaslu 1952-3, by members of the Japanese Manaslu Expeditions. 217 pages in Japanese, 17 pages in English, with 124 photographs, 4 sketch maps, and 13 illustrations. Tokyo: The Mainichi Newspapers, 1954.During the past three years, Manaslu has qu...
Shri Parvat, attempt and Bhagat Peak, ascent. Rajesh Gadgil’s nine member team from Bombay planned to attempt the second ascent of the beautiful 6175m fluted snow peak, Shri Parvat, which rises from the Deo Dekhni Plateau west of Mana-Badrinath an...
On August 13 and l4 Andrzej Sokolowski and I established a new route on the north summit of Pik Vernyi. We had attempted this line in 2009, but near the end of the major difficulties, I was hit on the shoulder by a large chunk of ice that damaged ...
Thalay Sagar. An expedition from La Rioja was composed of Juan Carlos Bahillo, leader, Germán Bahillo, Francisco Claro, Ignacio Fermín Pascual, Santiago Palacios and Jordi Corominas. They climbed the American route on the west ridge, probably the ...
The Third American Ascent of Mont Blanc(George W. Heard, Jr.—1855)The manuscript which follows is the earliest hitherto unpublished account of an American ascent of Mont Blanc. Its author (1837-1905) was, in 1855, the youngest man ever to have att...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Early in 1956 the Sierra Nevada Section proposed that an informal A.A.C. camp be held in an effort to promote increased contact among club members. The Tetons were chosen as the site, because of their relatively conv...
DAVE BRIDGES 1970-1999“The only death you die is the death you die every day by not living. Dream big and dare to fail.”—Norman VaughanAdventure as an addiction, as a passionate need, true compassion for life on the “front lines”—there was no othe...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle GullyOn March 20, a group of three climbers fell while simul-climbing upper pitches of Pinnacle Gully. It was a very busy Saturday in Huntington Ravine. Temperatures Frida...
Alan Rouse: A Mountaineer’s Life. Geoff Birtles, compiler. Unwin Hyman, London, 1987. 224 pages, 9 color and 14 black and white photographs. $28.95.When viewed by the parochial American eye, most British climbing biographies chronicle remarkably s...
Revival of “Linda di Chamouni'’ at the MetropolitanThis opera, one of the few in Alpine setting, was the delight of our forefathers. Donizetti wrote it on command for production in Vienna in 1842, and it was given in London at Her Majesty’s Theatr...
Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95. [Because the American Alpine Journal goes to press before the complete record for the current season is on hand, we are very grateful to Chris Breemer for his information written at the beginning of Mar...