LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn September 25, 1984, about 1600, Douglas Rovirra (27) was glissading Taylor Glacier with crampons on when he caught a crampon in the snow, lost contr...
Angels Wings, Attempt, and Exploration. The first person to bring the Cordillera Sarmiento to the attention of the climbing world was Jack Miller (U.S.), who flew over the range on a rare clear day in 1990, photographing the peninsula. He returned...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPE RAN OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, AnimationOn May 24, Eric Gurvin (19) sustained injuries to his back, ankles, and wrist when he fell 20 to 30 feet when the person lowering him ran out of rope and dropped him.He ...
Cañón de la Huasteca, Cañón de San Judas, Pico José Pereyra, Peyote Brujo. Paul Vera is a local climber in Monterrey who invited José Pereyra (Venezuela) to climb in the area. Francisco Medina (Mexico) was invited to a meeting at Paul’s house, whe...
Nanga Parbat, by Ulrich Ling. 52 pages, 24 photographs, 3 maps, and 1 sketch. Munich: Bergverlag Rudolph Rother, 1953. Price, DM. 3.80.This inexpensive, small paperbound volume was brought out in early August, just a month after the actual ascent ...
From the Rajucolta Valley on July 20, Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and I crossed the moraine onto the glacier, navigated extensive crevasses, and camped at approximately 5,100m. The next day, carrying little, we approached the bottom of the face...
Broad Peak Attempt and Tragedy. Broad Peak was attempted by Polish women Wanda Rutkiewicz and Barbara Kozlowska and Swiss Stéphane Schaffter. They established camps at 6550 and 7200 meters. The weather was continuously bad. On August 18 Rutkiewicz...
Sikkim Himalaya. A small party under the leadership of Marco Pallis was active in this section. An attempt was made on the N. W. peak of Simvu during which the party had the terrifying experience of an earthquake at the highest camp, which opened ...
Cerro El Cóndor, addendum. On p. 302 of the AAJ 2004, El Cóndor is mentioned in the title of Alexander von Gotz’s report, but we mistakenly deleted his brief mention of their El Cóndor ascent. Von Gotz and companions climbed to the north summit (6...
Old Mount Hyndman, Northeast Face, Pioneer Mountains. On September 28 Bill March, Nobuyuki Fujita, Jerry Leitch and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Old Mount Hyndman. From camp at the head of Wildhorse Creek, we ascended an obviou...
Trail Crest Tower, South Face, and Aiguille Extra, East Face. Trail Crest Tower is the first prominent tower south of Mount Muir. The route is just left of the southeast comer of the tower. It stays about ten feet left of this outside comer for it...
FALL ON ROCK, INSUFFICIENT PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Barrier BluffsWhile leading the route called Cadillac Jack on June 3, 1990, T.C. fell and struck a ledge. Her partner lowered her to the ground, where it was obvious she had severely i...
Shipton Spire, Inshallah. In July, Steph Davis, Kennan Harvey, and Seth Shaw established a third route on Shipton Spire (a.k.a. Hainablak Central Tower), Inshallah (VII 5.12 AO, 4,300 feet). The trio spent 14 days on the wall and managed to free a...
FALLING ROCK – PULLED OFF BY LEAD CLIMBERBritish Columbia, Bugaboos Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireOn August 15, a climber was climbing the last pitch of Sunshine Crack (IV 5.10+) on Snowpatch Spire. The lead climber pulled off a rock about twice...
Vinson, summary of the 2006-7 season. There were 100 ascents of Vinson (4,892m) out of 130 attempts. This success rate of only 77% is statistically the worst on record and contrasts strongly with 2005-6, which had the most summit successes with 14...
Tawoche, Lobuje East and Pokalde, Winter Ascents. A four-man British- German expedition was led by David Etherington. Two unsuccessful attempts were made on Tawoche before it was climbed: the northeast buttress to 5500 meters on December 4 and the...
Gran Trono Blanco, South Wall, Sierra Juárez. On November 9, 10 and 11, John Vawter, Dick Savidge and I completed a new route on the south face of El Gran Trono Blanco. It consists of 11 pitches, 7 completely free and 4 mixed (these involving only...
Annapurna, South Face. Our international party was composed of Poles Mrs. Jolanta Patynoska, Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewicz. RyszardPawlowski, Bogdan Stefko, Mariusz Sprutta and me as leader, German Rüdiger Schleypen, Belgian Miss Ingrid Baeyens, Briton Jo...
Lhotse Attempt. A 16-member Polish expedition, led by Andrzej Zawada, attempted Lhotse (27,890 feet) by its northwest face from the Western Cwm of Everest. They reached 27,000 feet on Christmas Day from Camp IV which had been established at 25,600...
Makalu, Attempt by West Face and Ascent by Normal Route. Our expedition was composed of Italians Floriano Castelnuovo, Fabio Iacchini, Fabrizio Manoni, Salvatore Panzeri, Dario Spreafico and me as leader, Czech Leopold Sulovsky, Slovene Miroslav S...