LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

On September 25, 1984, about 1600, Douglas Rovirra (27) was glissading Taylor Glacier with crampons on when he caught a crampon in the snow, lost control and tumbled the rest of the way to near the base of the glacier. Rovirra sustained a fractured fibula just below the knee and a fractured tibia just above the ankle, on the same leg. Rangers responded and stabilized the situation for a helicopter evacuation at 0715 the next morning. (Source: Charlie Logan, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)

Analysis

Particular attention must be paid to the added hazards of wearing crampons in descending mixed conditions (walking/sliding). At almost any speed, crampons provide little or no dynamic breaking advantage. On the contrary, if one forgets for a second the static impact of “crampon arrests,” the unpleasant results can be fairly well anticipated. (Source: Charlie Logan, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)