UNITED STATESFALLING SNOW BLOCK Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount BarrilleA party of four, Dr. Jim Sprott, Niles Woods, Martina Volfova and Kneeland Taylor, flew into the Ruth Glacier on April 19 with Talkeetna Air Taxi. On the 20th the group cl...
Grand Teton, Exum Route, First Winter Ascent. From February 19 to 21 David Lowe, Jock Glidden, and David Smith made the first winter ascent of this popular summer climb. Leaving Moose at seven A.M. on the 19th, we skied to the Platforms in Garnet ...
A Season on Everest The rest of the story by Elizabeth Hawley As the whole world seems to know, disaster struck climbers high on Mount Everest on May 10, and immediately the mountain, and the men and women assaulting it, were headline news aroun...
Last of the Annapurnas by M. S. Kohli. New Delhi: Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Govt. of India, 1962. 62 black and white photos, 11 color photos, several maps and sketches. Price $4.00.This is a very interesting ...
The Early Alpine Guides, by Ronald Clark. 208 pages, with 27 illustrations, four maps and index. London: Phoenix House, 1949 (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons). Price, 15/-.The biographer of Vittorio Sella, now engaged in the more formidable task...
JOHN VINCENT HOEMAN1936 - 1969The Dhaulagiri tragedy still seems to many of us unbelievable. That Vin Hoeman was one of the seven who died beneath the ice avalanche makes it only more so. All his experience and ambition, lost to the whims of a mou...
Northernmost Labrador, Mapped from the Air, by Alexander Forbes. New York: American Geographical Society, Special Publication No. 22.A narrative account of an important exploration by a Boston sportsman planned as a summer vacation and carried on ...
In mid-August, Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes, and I flew northwest out of Squamish for the head of Bute Inlet. Once there we transferred for a quick bump to the head of Galleon Creek, below the 6,000' west buttress of Mt Bute. The next mornin...
ROB SLATER 1960-1995To the determined climber, there are main events that lead one toward the greatest peaks. Beyond the tragic news of Rob Slater’s death on K2 lies a story of how this great adventure climber came to be.I met Rob in 1976 on a NOL...
World Atlas of Mountaineering, edited by Wilfrid Noyce and Ian McMorrin. The MacMillan Company, 1970, copyright 1969 by Thomas Nelson & Sons, Ltd., London. 224 pages, 262 half-tones, 25 color plates, 54 maps. Price $14.95.The World Atlas of Mo...
French Rock-Climbs, by Pete Livesey. Leicester, England: Cordee, 1980. 77 pages, maps, diagrams. Price £3.95.For the rock climber who has done everything in the U.S., this may be the book of the year. Tired of Yosemite? Burned off with El Dorado o...
Kichatna Spire, East Buttress. On June 9, Koreans Yu Hak-Jae, Shin Dong-Seok and Han Tai-Il completed a new route (VI, 5,10, A3) on the east face of Kichatna Spire. The 4500-foot high face had excellent cracks and chimneys. There was severe rockfa...
Snow Lake Area, Cornice and Tarci Peaks. Seven members of the Bergamo section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent July 19 to August 4 in a base camp (4700m) where the Biafo merges with the Sim Gang Glacier. The original project was the second ascent...
Ascent of Annapurna. Last spring the French Himalayan Expedition successfully climbed Annapurna (26,500 ft.), the highest summit yet reached and the first peak over 8000 meters ever ascended. In the original planning of the expedition it was decid...
A Month in the Coast RangeSterling B. HendricksACCOUNTS of exploration and climbing in the Coast Range of British Columbia1 have always stirred me to what I thought was the futile desire to climb there, time and distance being what they are. Oppor...
Mountains of North America. Fred Beckey. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco in association with The American Alpine Club, 1982. 256 pages, 140 color photographs, map. $35.00.Shore up your coffee tables: here comes another three-and-a-half pounds of ...
La Mascara, Ilusiones and Duncan's Dihedral; Paine Chico, West Face; Cuernos. In early January 2002 Englishmen Andy Cave and Leo Houlding did the second ascent of and free climbed the route Ilusiones on the east face of La Mascara. Ilusiones was f...
Several years ago I explored the eastern islands off the coast of Papua New Guinea, looking for steep rock formations that had yet to see humans on their summits. I found amazing spires. There I met an ornithologist who was also following his pass...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Chogolisa Southwest Face Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Mlle Brigitte Aucher, Lionel Desrivières, Philippe Dubois, Phillippe Dutilloy, Jean-Marie Salmiche, Roland Marill, Dr. Eric Ronnier and me as leader. We had planned to rea...