Tawoche, east ridge, winter ascent. For the first time in 62 years it snowed in Kathmandu. This same storm also dumped more than a meter of snow in the Khumbu, making for an interesting few days. It was February 2007 and Kristoffer Erickson, Seth ...
Climbs in Soviet Asia, 1965. According to Der Berkamerad, on August 12, 1965 twenty-nine members of a Lithuanian-Esthonian expedition to the Pamir-Alai Range climbed Pik Lenin (23,406 feet) from the Krilenko Pass via the first-ascent route. Pik Ko...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. 1989 proved to be a very productive year for the Memphis Mountaineers. The total membership of 66 included 42 regular members in the Memphis, Tennessee, area, eight honorary members, and 16 associate members scattered th...
First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs. Stephen Venables. Buffalo, NY: Firefly Books, 2008. Numerous color and black and white photographs. 192 pages. $45.In this lavish coffee-table book we read about the first ascent of Mont Blanc, the tragedy...
Ski Mountaineering in Southern CaliforniaWalter MosauerTHIS title may evoke an incredulous smile from distant readers who think of Southern California as the land of all-year bathing beaches, oranges, motion-pictures and occasional earthquakes. Ev...
Korean Mount Everest Expedition. Under the leadership of Young-do Kim, the 16-man expedition left Kathmandu in four or five parties between July 19 and 26. Base Camp was reached on August 9 at 17,725 feet, 22 days after the first party had left Ka...
Jankho Laya. Our expedition was made up of Pierre Faussurier, Daniel Barrera, Dr. Patrick Mure, my wife Francine and me as leader. We climbed northeast of Laguna Khara Kkota from May 18 to 31. We left La Paz on May 16 on the road to the Mina Fabul...
The West Face of Howser SpireGALEN A. ROWELLON a stormy night in 1967,I was with Fred Beckey waiting out the rain in the plastic shelters at Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos. Climbers were already sardined into the hut. The door opened and in with the...
FALL ON ROCK—CAM HOOK CAME OFF, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Zion National Park, Forbidden WallOn December 27, V G. (25) and L. E. (20) obtained a backcountry permit to climb Moonlight Buttress. Whether they couldn’t find their intended...
Pik Pobedy in WinterEduard Myslovski and Valery Khrishchaty, Soviet Mountaineering FederationFINALLY, ALL FOUR SOVIET 7000-meter peaks have been climbed in winter. The first winter ascents were attempted in the 1960s. These were expeditions to the...
High Trails: A Guide to the Cascade Crest Trail, by Robert H. Wills. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1962. 157 pages. Maps. Price $3.00.High Trails serves its narrow purpose: trail description of the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington, mil...
Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. On July 8 Jorge Ruiz Luque, Eduardo Klenk, Carlos Comesaña and I established Base Camp on Carhuacocha. We set up another camp at 18,000 feet on the Yerupajá- Siulá plateau where we did not stay for any le...
Solimana, Cordillera Occidental. Accompanied by Julián Blanco Herrera of Cuzco, Peru, the German Paul Götz and another person, I made a first attempt at the end of June to climb the last unclimbed 6000-meter peak in the south of Peru, Solimana (20...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2003 mountaineering season was eclipsed by the tragic crash of a McKinley Air Service flight in late May. En route to base camp, all four on board died when the plane crashed at South Hunter Pass. We...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolam RidgeLeaving their high camp in the early morning of September 23, Dave Woods and David Wicken (36) began the 40-degree climb of the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge. Woo...
Arjuna Attempt. The British Himalayan Expedition, Kishtwar: Tom Henderson, American, Peter Melling, Linda and Ron Rutland and I, made an unsuccessful attempt on unclimbed Arjuna (20,440 feet). We approached the peak along the Chenab valley through...
On May 28 Ilona Barash and I flew into Betties, with the Arrigetch under a heavy blanket of snow. Gates of the Arctic National Park rangers advised us that travel would be impossible without snowshoes this early in the year and suggested that we c...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE, WET WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 30, 1983, Charles Turner (28) and Alan Jolley (26) began calling for help from “The Block” on the Salathé Wall of El Capitan. A rescue team was flown up to the rim ...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, Mountaineering Section. Our membership was active on many fronts this year. We climbed in Canada, the Northwest, the Tetons, Colorado, the Alps, and India as well as here in the East—Cannon, Shawangunks, Linville Go...
Kanjiroba Himal, Sisne Himal, etc. Our party, consisting of John Earle, James Burnet and me, with four Sherpas under Sirdar Ang Dawa, left Nepalganj at the beginning of April to explore and map the little known groups named on the Survey of India ...