California, Yosemite (2)—On April 15, 1955 Don Claunch and George W. Whitmore attempted a direct ascent of Eagle Peak via the east face. Approximately 1,200 feet above camp Four. They were engaged in a traverse. Don led the pitch, placing a piton ...
Cirque Lake Peak, Southwest Spur, Warbonnet Peak Area, Sawtooth Mountains. On August 9 Paul Helmcke, A1 Schmidt and I completed the first ascent of the southwest spur of Cirque Lake Peak. From the Warbonnet Lakes we ascended to within 300 feet of ...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, CLIMBING UNROPED Alaska, Palmer, Knik ValleyIn early April of 1994, Martin Martinez’ climbing partner vanished after a cornice gave way, resulting in a long plunge down the side of a deep couloi...
Mount McKinley, New Routes on the Southwest. In addition to the route described above by Patrick Morrow, our CLOD expedition made several climbs. Jon Jones soloed the West Buttress from 14,200 feet on June 9 and 10. Roger Marshall and Dave Reid cl...
Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascent but first to highest point. Under the direction of mountain guide Simon Elias, a female national climbing team from FEDME (Spanish mountaineering...
The Earth’s Changing Glaciersby Dr. Andrew Klein, Texas A&M UniversityThe retreat of the world’s glaciers was thrust into the American public consciousness in September, 1997, when Vice President of the United States Albert Gore stood in front...
Pamirs. The Russians report the establishment of a glaciological-meteorological station at 23,000 feet in the Fedchenko region. They also announce the first ascent of Voroshilov (21,870 feet) by an 11-man expedition.On July 7 a group of 33 Chinese...
Berge unserer Erde (Mountains of our Earth), by Toni Hiebeler. Süddeutscher Buchverlag München 1974. 208 pages, 116 pictures, 91 in color. 9½ × 13½ inches, hard cover. Price in Germany DM 65.-With this volume the well-known climber, author and pas...
The Art of BoulderingJohn P. GillIN THE broad spectrum of mountaineering there are activities suited to diverse interests and temperaments. No doubt some of the vitality of this exhilarating way of life derives from its variety. If one places larg...
Mount McKinley. In 1962 six expeditions reached the summit of Mount McKinley by three different routes. Miss Bucknell was the second woman and our member, Miss Chamberlin, the third to climb the mountain. The first ascent of the Southeast Spur is ...
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON SNOW/ICE – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonAbout 1000 on July 29, Ryan Haymaker (21) and Andy Friedlund were attempting to climb the Middle ...
Return from the Pole, by Frederick A. Cook. Edited, with an introduction, notes and bibliography, by Frederick J. Pohl. 325 pages, illustration, map. New York: Pellegrini and Cudahy, 1951. Price, $4.50.In all the annals of exploration there is rec...
Devil’s Thumb and Kate’s Needle, Stikine Icecap, Northern Coast Range. The British Columbia Mountaineering Club camp in the Stikine Icecap climbed ten new summits in the region between the Devil’s Thumb and Kate’s Needle and put up new routes on b...
EINAR NILSSON1901-1989Einar Nilsson, a retired electrical engineer, died of pneumonia on December 13, 1989, aged 88. He was born in Malmö, Sweden, and for forty-four years worked for the Pacific Gas and Electric Company before retiring in 1966. Fo...
Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m. Juan-Antonio Puyol and I visited Yunnan because it is largely unexplored. The only information we found for our chosen area on the Mekong-Yangtze divide in the Hengduan Range came from a report by Tom Nakamura in AAJ...
Peruvian Ascents. Schoolboys made several first ascents this year. The Director of the Ministry of Education, Juan José Vega, has offered the maximum cooperation, along with the Director of Physical Education, Carlos Rojas, to the development of s...
An Attempt on Bush MountainDyson DuncanFOR several years I have been trying to climb Bush Mountain, so that by this time it has become an intimate and unruly friend. In 1930 we were unable to reach the base of the mountain from the eastern side, a...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. The year began on a high note with the Section providing customized, limited edition embroidered jackets, vests, and hats at the AAC Annual Meeting at Snowbird, Utah. These items are sold in hopes of adding a sense of...
A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the route on the right side of the south face, attempted in 2005 by Slovenians Miha Habjan and Andrej Stremfelj. Ages of the mem...
Mount Hubbard. Andy Williams of Alcan Air had said that we should not be distressed to see clear weather at Kluane Lake and still not be able to fly because of bad weather in the mountains proper. His warning kept recurring in our minds as we bask...