The east face of Taylor Peak is situated above Sky Pond in the Loch Vale region of Rocky Mountain National Park. Early in April Doug Scott, Doug Snively, and I established a new route there in semi-winter conditions. The route ascends a right-le...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQAUTE PROTECTION–ANCHORING ERROR, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Hoback Junction, Rodeo WallOn August 1, Sandy Edmiston (22) fell 60 feet to her death from the anchors of a bolted sport climb at the popular Rodeo Wall, south of Jackson. A...
Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash of Peru, by Jim Bartle. Published by the author, 1980 (Peruvian edition) and 1981 (US edition). 159 pages, 33 illustrations, including 18 color photographs and 15 sketch maps, plus one separate fold...
Western Hajar mountains report. There has been another bout of new route activity since my last report in AAJ 2001. In November, possibly the best line in the range was climbed on Jabal Misht by resident guide Jacob Oberhause (Austria) and Brian D...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. During the summer of 1953, members of the Club conducted expeditions to British Colombia, Alberta, Peru, and Alaska. In British Columbia Bill Putnam and Harry Francis ran an 18-man climbing camp in the Northern Selkirk...
FALL ON ICE-CAUSED SHOULDER DISLOCATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn July 25th, the fifth day of a successful expedition via the Kautz Glacier route, a client with International Mountain Guides suffered a shoulder dislocation during a...
Gyachung KangAn alpine mentality in the Himalayaby Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Slovenia translated by Ana Percic“Have you noticed the mountain between Cho Oyu and Everest?” Andrej asked me in 1995.“There are several interesting peaks...
Yerupajá—1966Leif-Norman Patterson and David IslesPatterson describes the ascent of the west face.MOUNTAINEERING becomes difficult from the very start if you have a passion for the straightest lines from bottom to top of the steepest faces and yet...
A.A.C.: Cascade Section. Although the Section met only three times during the year, its individual members were busy taking part in mountaineering projects of their own such as an expedition to the Yukon Territory, dedication of mountain huts in t...
Abode of Snow. A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering, by Kenneth Mason. 372 pages; illustrations and diagrams. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1955. Price, 25 shillings. New York: E. P. Dutton Co., 1955. Price $6.50.No one is better qua...
Pik Lenin, Pamirs. The Russians announce that 200 climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Estonia and Uzbekistan climbed in early August to the summit of Pik Lenin (23,406 feet).
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, IMPROPER CLOTHING, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerOn July 28, 1990, a party of 11 was on three ropes descending the Roman Wall on Mount Baker. At the crest, the team led by Earl Crouse (63...
Canadian Wickersham Wall Ascent of Mount McKinleyHans Gmoser, Alpine Club of CanadaThe Wickersham Wall or the north face of the North Peak of Mount McKinley is one of the world’s highest faces, rising in one sweep from 5600 feet to the 19,470-foot...
ROCKFALL, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Boulder Canyon, Redgarden WallI was on pitch 4 of Rewritten (5.7) on August 1 when the party above me yelled down that the block was loose. I’ve climbed Rewritten before and I knew about the infamous refrigerator bl...
The Everest Years: A Climber’s Life. Chris Bonington. Viking, New York, 1987. 256 pages, 160 photographs in color and black-and-white, maps. $24.95.Chris Bonington has done it again. The Everest years: A Climber’s Life is his tenth book and his th...
To Kiss High Heaven: Nanda Devi, by J. J. Languepin. Translated from the French by Mervyn Savill. London: William Kimber, 1956. 199 pages ; 9 ills.This is an unusual mountaineering book for several reasons: it is emotional as only the French seem ...
A Rampart Wall —Oubliette’s East FaceFred BeckeyOccasionally in mountaineering an unplanned undertaking, spurred by the spice of adventure and a sudden promise of perfect weather, can be as safe as a thoroughly programmed outing. It is bound to be...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, Swan SlabOn April 27, 1992, at 1430, Karen Hoeppner telephoned NPS dispatch and reported that James Dziadulewicz had fallen while rock climbing on Swan Slab, and was...
Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone. Reinhold Messner. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 173 pages. $24.95.There are other Annapurnas in men’s lives, as Maurice Herzog wrote, and Reinhold Messner has found many on Annapurna itself in t...
SCOTT DAVIS and I drove into Yosemite early in April, planning to climb a new route on El Cap. Finding that two climbers were already trying the Morning Light Route on the North America Wall, we decided to try an unclimbed line through the Heart o...