A Settemila Metri: Gli Inca, Precursori d’Alpinismo, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 24 pages, 18 illustrations (some in color), 1 map.The notion that mountaineering began with the first ascent of Mont Blanc is no longer acceptable...
Peaks in Gazen Gol, Hindu Raj. From Chitral, which they left on July 13, the RCC II Expedition traveled through Mastuj, Brep, Wasam and Nichaf to reach Base Camp at 13,325 feet at Garpigar in the Gazen Gol, above the Yakhun River. The climbers wer...
Everest Attempt. Xavier Murillo, Pierre and Annie Beghin and I were helicoptered to Namche Bazar on September 21. We were at Base Camp on the 24th. The weather was beautiful. The rest of the international expedition led by Swiss Fredy Graf had mad...
Nevado Juncal. A Spanish expedition from Valencia, five climbers led by Miguel Gómez, ascended the western summit of this great ice mountain in March. This summit is currently held as 5960 meters high (19,554 feet), but local climbers believe that...
Shaqsha Sur, southeast face. In June Peruvian guides Elias Flores and Miguel Martinez, with Cesar Rosales and Italian Tizianoi Orio, made the first ascent of the southeast face of the slightly lower South Summit (ca. 5,697m) of Shaqsha. The elegan...
Dunagiri, North Face, New Route and Attempt, Previously Unreported. It was reported that in 1998, Spaniards Xabier Guembe and Jon Beloki completed a new route (80 degrees, IV, 1900 meters) alpine-style on the previously unclimbed north face of Dun...
Simian Climbing Club. In the fall the Simians conducted their usual instruction trips to the local cliffs at Portland Arch, Indiana. About 40 to 50 beginners learned the basics of rock climbing, and there were several weekend trips to Devils Lake,...
Nordenskjold attempt and Normann ascent. John Griber, Hilaree Nelson, and Rick Armstrong along with film crew Tom Day and John Teaford, made up a strong U.S. team, led by Doug Stoup that visited the island in October and November. They traveled ab...
Ogre, Karakoram. We spent considerable time searching for a route up the south face of the Ogre, but due to objective dangers, this face was eventually rejected and we trekked three days to reconnoitre the north face. A feasible route was discover...
Peaks in Llanganuco Valley. Laurie Skreslet, Tom Marron, Joe Duhaime, Larry Derby and I made the following climbs: Yanapaccha Sur (16,880 feet) on June 2 by Marron, Stanley, traverse from north to south; Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) on June 6 by Marro...
Cerro Stanhardt and Traverse to Punta Herron, 1991. From October 26 to 29, 1991, Ermanno Salvaterra, Ferruccio Vidi and Adriano Cavallaro made an extraordinary traverse. Bivouacking before reaching the summit, they climbed Cerro Stanhardt via the ...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Franconia NotchOn August 4, 1989, two climbers (both 35) from Philadelphia were having obvious trouble on the Whitney-Gilman Ridge (5.7). We chose a 5.8 variat...
Nianqintanggula. A 12-person expedition from Tohoku University in Japan was led by Mario Kuzunushi. They left Lhasa on March 25 and traveled about 100 kilometers on the highway and another four off of it to place Base Camp at 4800 meters at Panyut...
LIGHTNING, POOR POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 24, 1991, at 1500, Tim Finnegan was struck by lightning while climbing the Teeter Tooter Pillar on Longs Peak. The lightning bolt struck above them, traveled down ...
Cho Oyu. Our expedition, Ugo and Gerolamo Gianola, Erma Pomoni, Flavio Spazzadeschi, Sandro Benzoni, Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, Lino Zani and I as leader, climbed Cho Oyu by the normal northwest side. We reached Tingri on April 10, where we spent fou...
ACCIDENTS, 1954 (NOT PREVIOUSLY REPORTED)Carderock, near Washington, D. C. — On December 26, 1954, three climbers, all of whom had had belaying instruction and practice, were making the Cris-Wex-Don Traverse. The leader was an expert climber and e...
Day Canyon. In Day Canyon, also accessed from the Potash Road, Keith Reynolds and Alan Stephenson climbed Prohibition Crack (three pitches, 5.11+) on a new spire (Raptor Tower) left of Bootleg Tower. Bootleg itself, first climbed in 1974 by Eric B...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. This small Section grew in membership during the year. Various members climbed in the Pamirs, the Alps, and the Canadian Rockies. On the home front the Section worked on the rehabilitation of Carde-rock, our most used l...
Hagshu Attempt. Englishman John Barry has made several unsuccessful attempts to climb Hagshu by a new route, the north face. He was back again in September, 1992, accompanied by Bevis Bowden and D.J. “Smiler” Cuth- bertson. The 3500-foot-high face...
Lhotse. Our international group of six was led by Pole Ryszard Pawlowksi. We established Base Camp on September 5. From September 7 to 22, we acclimatized, stocking Camps I, II and III. Bad weather then held us up. On the 29th, Alec McNab from Sco...