Peaks in Gazen Gol, Hindu Raj. From Chitral, which they left on July 13, the RCC II Expedition traveled through Mastuj, Brep, Wasam and Nichaf to reach Base Camp at 13,325 feet at Garpigar in the Gazen Gol, above the Yakhun River. The climbers were Michio Ebihara and Yoshikazu Takahashi. After crossing the Tui (Tuiyo) An at 14,760 feet, they entered the Gilgit side and reconnoitered the north face of Tui Zom (20,204 feet). The scale was greater than that of the Grandes Jorasses and they found the wall too much for them. On July 23 they made the first ascent of Sha Zom ("Black Peak”; 16,273 feet) via Parano An. On July 25 they scrambled along the moraines of the Gazen Gol main stream and bivouacked on detritus of the Gazen Glacier. The next day they made the first ascent of I-Kai Zom ("Eldest Daughter Peak”; 17,290 feet), highest of the Troi-Kai-Gini group, which stands in the main range of the Hindu Raj, north of Tui An. On the 28th they camped on the detritus of the western glacier, whence they climbed the north side of Puti Zom ("Love Peak”; 17,950 feet), which is north of Sha Zom and with Kamaro Zom (c. 6000 meters) to its north makes up the Mehejulian Kar group. Ebihara fell sick and in early August they had to give up the attempt on Kamaro Zom.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club