Cordillera Carabaya. The Kempten, Allgäu Expedition was composed of Dr. Fritz März, leader, Adolf Kling, Wolfgang Reichhardt and me. We explored in the Cordillera Carabaya, although it is difficult to know where that Cordillera and the Cordillera ...
The North Face of Mount KitchenerCHRISTOPHER A. G. JONES“IT looks bad … it’s a steep mother”. “Yeah, you won’t catch this baby up there”.Chouinard, Faint and I scratched ourselves, shook our heads knowingly, got back in the old Chevy and headed up...
SLIP ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INSTRUCTOR NOT FAMILIAR WITH ROUTEWashington, North Cascades, Saska PeakWhile participating in a climb of Saska Peak on Day 17 of a Pacific Crest Outward Bound sea/mountain course, a fema...
As the first crimson rays of dawn crept under a thin veneer of clouds marking the next oncoming front, Jim Bridwell and I hesitantly plowed through hip-deep snow up the glacier towards our 1500-feet of fixed rope. Small powder avalanches turned ...
Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Fight Terrorism and Build Nations-One School at a Time, Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin. New York: Penguin, 2006. Black AND WHITE PHOTOS. 338 PAGES. $25.95.Three Cups of Tea tells the compelling story ...
Peak 13,790' (Mt. Andrews), Going Monk. On May 30 Jonny Copp and I climbed a new route on Peak 13,790' (as marked on the Mt. McKinley A-3 quad map), located on the south side of the East Fork Kahiltna Glacier; this is the last peak at the southeas...
Cordillera Yucay. An Italian Expedition from Biella climbed in the Cordillera Yucay, above Paucartambo and near Cuzco, which they approached via the Lluaumarca and Yonacocha passes. Led by Fulvio Ratto, they were Guido Machetto, Franco Riva, Bruno...
NORMAN R. STREATFEILDLong before the Club’s 1938 K2 expedition left this country, its members asked the British government to lend Captain Streatfeild —the wiry Scot who had done such splendid work as liaison officer of the French expedition to Hi...
A WEEK BEFORE WE LEFT, I called a friend in Iqaluit and he advised, “This is the worst ice year in several decades. I don’t know how you are going to get into Sam Ford Fiord. You should have come last year. Or maybe try next year.” But there was n...
Mountaineering, edited by Sydney Spencer. Contributions by twenty-two authorities. The Lonsdale Library, vol. xviii. 386 pages, 130 illustrations, 9 maps and index. London. Seeley, Service & Co., 1934. Price 21s.This is one of those rare books...
Mounts Steele, Wood and Walsh and Other Climbs Made from the General Camp of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition. Of the peaks climbed by the expedition in or on the Steele valley watershed, only Steele and Wood have official names. Mount Walsh...
CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HEAVY SNOWFALLColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn February 13, 1983, Rudi Moder (27) departed the Zimmerman Lake trailhead on Colorado Highway 14 near Cameron Pass for a two- to three-night solo ski mount...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn the morning of May 26 Thaddeus Josephson (20) and I, (Ben Mathews— 26) were starting our fourth day on Sunkist (VI 5.9 A4) on El Cap. Thaddeus polished off pitch 14, the ...
Baffin Island: Big Past, Bigger FutureEugene FisherERIK THE RED WAS BOOTED OUT of Iceland in 986 AD for, as one historian dryly puts it, “twice taking human life without reasonable cause.” Before long, this violent exile was in the real estate bus...
Nanda Ghunti, Garbwal. Nanda Ghunti (20,700 feet) was climbed for the second time by an Indian expedition which attacked it from the Rishi gorge north of the peak. On October 22, 1960 the leader, Sukumar Roy, Dilip Banerjee, and the Sherpas Ang Ts...
Between November 26, 1998-January 5, 1999, Paolo Cavagnetto* and Lorenzo Nettuno (Italy) and Nigel Topping and I (U.K.) traversed on skis with pulkas a ca. 200 kilometer, north-south route (mostly following the route of Shipton’s 1963 expedition) ...
Canyonlands National Park. This preserve of 527 square miles is in the heart of the Colorado Plateau. Most of the region is remote and inaccessible to all but the most diligent wilderness explorer. Although climbing continues to gain in popularity...
Late Have I Loved Thee, by Ethel Mannin. 350 pages. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1948. Price, $3.00.There have been so few novels in English dealing extensively with climbing that it is always interesting when one is found. Miss Mannin’s theme w...
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, first ascents and Bylot Island (Baffin), traverses and first ascents. After our successful first ascent of the North Wall of Sanderson’s Hope in 2000, we wintered the boat in Aasiaat, West Greenland, and the crew for 200...
Climbing Ban in the Navajo Reservation, New Mexico and Arizona. Dr. Earnest C. Anderson of the Los Alamos Mountaineers has forwarded us the following letter, pointing out that the Navajo’s policy has now been changed and that an absolute and uncon...