South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Cordillera Carabaya
Cordillera Carabaya. The Kempten, Allgäu Expedition was composed of Dr. Fritz März, leader, Adolf Kling, Wolfgang Reichhardt and me. We explored in the Cordillera Carabaya, although it is difficult to know where that Cordillera and the Cordillera Vilcanota begin and stop. We left the Hacienda Ccapana near Occongate and drove over the Huallahualla Pass to Marcapata, our jumping-off point. On July 23 with four riding and five pack horses we rode from Marcapata, crossing the river and continuing to the northeast for two hours, before turning southeast up the Ttillpa and Colpapampa rivers past Ttillpa and Chillimocco to our first camp at 12,750 feet. The next day we rode southeast beyond the Indian settlement at Ocororopata to camp at 14,000 feet at Yanaruna. From there we climbed the glacier on the south to the top of Nevado Ocororopata (16,503 feet). On the 26th we ascended Nevado Yanaruna I (16,798 feet). Still from the same camp on July 27 we climbed the highest of the Yanaruna group, Yanaruna II (17,389 feet), from the northeast, traversing under the eastern side of the peak we had climbed the day before. We descended over glaciers to the east-southeast to Laguna Sodena, where Dr. März had brought the horses. We continued on for two hours to lonely Hacienda Hariconi (14,500 feet), where we made our third camp. We continued the next day in a westerly direction to Cimboya where we camped at 15,900 feet at an abandoned zinc-lead mine. On July 29 we climbed by its east ridge Chabuca (17,782 feet), an ice peak, north-northwest of the mine. While Dr. März reconnoitered the Escopitani group on July 30, we three climbed by its east face Ccoyllorhuaycuna (17,618 feet), which rises above the huge 16,500-foot Ritipampa (ice field) de Quelccaya. We descended the north ridge. On the 31st we ascended by its snow and rock south ridge Escopitani II (17,618 feet), the eastern of the lovely twin summits, but mist prevented our climbing the slightly higher western peak. Three of us climbed all summits; Dr. März did not climb the two noted. It took us two days to return past Hacienda Hoque, over the Paraña Pass (16,750 feet), past Adji to the Marcapata valley, which we descended to Marcapata, completing the 60-mile loop on August 2.
Karl-Dieter Fuchsberger, Deutscher Alpenverein