SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn September 5, 1983, MRC member Dave Larson, with fellow climbers Dee Urbick, Denny Smith and Glenn Wetzel, turned back at the top of Disappointment Cleaver because of high ...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy Ridge, WhitemanOn March 20, there was a very nasty accident up at Lumpy Ridge that happened to a very experienced climber (in his 30’s). He fell about 110 feet from the to...
Mount Everest (Qomolungma), Northeast Ridge and North Face. The Japanese Alpine Club’s Qomolungma Expedition was composed of 39 members, including 13 press and television people. It was led by Hyoriko Watanabe. They established Base Camp on May 5 ...
Roxanna Brock and Brian McCray brought home the bronze, placing third in the International Mountaineering Trophy big wall climbing competition. The event, hosted by the Russian Mountaineering Federation from July 25-August 20, took place in the Ka...
Mount Everest Group, Attempted Traverses. There were two ambitious plans for very lightweight traverses via the highest point on earth (see Nepal for that of Anatoli Boukreev). An Italian, Reinhard Patscheider, who was an independent climber on th...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn September 9, 1985, at 0830,1 was told to go up to the Longs Peak Trail to ascertain the location, condition, and, if necessary, to evacuate an overdue climbing part...
Framnes Mountains, MacRobertson Land. I was working in a scientific capacity in the Framnes Mountains near the Australian station of Mawson in the winter of 1984 and the summers of 1984-5 and 1985-6. The three main ranges of Henderson, Masson and ...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR CAME OFF, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, High Sierra, Middle PalisadeAt 4:15 a.m. on August 14, experienced climbers Alfred Fordiani (43) and Dave Brummund (42) left their Brainard Lake c...
La Esfinge, Mecho Taq Inti? Our team was two women, Tanja Rojs and Aleksandra Voglar, and I, Andrej Grmovsek, all from Slovenia. After acclimatization on Vallunaraju (5686m) we put up base camp under La Esfinge on July 11. Because of many articles...
French Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. Under the aegis of the Club Alpin Français I organized a second small expedition in August, 1970. Knowing the difficulties of getting into the Atter massif, which we failed to reach in 1969, we c...
In July on Pedra Riscada, near São José do Divino in the state of Minas Gerais, Horacio Gratton (Argentina), Stefan Glowacz, Holger Heuber, and Klaus Fengler (Germany), and I opened Place of Happiness (850m, 5.12d). It is a magic line in an amazin...
FALL ON ROCK, STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Arizona, Camelback MountainAt 1240 on January 24, 1987, the Phoenix Fire Department was notified that a male (18) had fallen about 60 meters to his death from a route known as Suicid...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakCathedral Peak South East Buttress is a popular six-pitch moderate alpine climb, with many variations, about 3.5 miles...
YahtséteshaMaynard Malcolm MillerAS far N. as one can go in Southeastern Alaska, before the Pan- handle fades and the International Boundary swings poleward, lies what has been referred to as the greatest ice mountain in all of North America. For ...
This is the twenty-fourth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the eleventh in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and the statistical tables ha...
Huayna Potosí, North Ridge. At Easter I hiked from the Zongo Pass on the east side of Huayna Potosí along the aqueduct to a small lake below the northeast (see correction below) and north ridges. From here, between snow squalls, I could see that a...
Rooster Comb, HuntingtonNicholas Colton, Alpine ClubWith A HIMALAYAN expedition looming in the fall, we decided we must climb somewhere in the spring. Tim Leach suggested Alaska, not only for the fantastic potential for climbing but also because ...
AAC, Oregon Section. In February, Tom Bennett and I organized the premier Mazama Denali Conference, which featured 26 speakers from all over Alaska and the lower 48 states and included Bradford and Barbara Washburn as our special guests. Jack Grau...
The Andes are Prickly, by Malcolm Slesser. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1966. 254 pages, 31 photographs, 4 maps. Price: 42 s.This book is not solely on mountaineering; rather it describes an expedition, traveling, climbing, mapping and tape recor...
Cerro La Junta, Trinidad, and Roca Grande de la Junta, new routes. I made my first Cochamó expedition, from the DAV and supported by the Section Bayerland, with Stephan Schanderl (30, mountain guide, also from Munich). We spent six weeks between m...