Condoriri Region, Cordillera Real. My wife Irene and I left La Paz on August 17. From a point 20 kilometers from the end of the road north of Lake Tuni, we made our way up the valley which runs due south from Condoriri and reached Base Camp in 3½ ...
British Everest Expedition, 1951. Early in 1951 the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club received permission from the Government of Nepal to send an expedition to the S. side of Mt. Everest. Mr. Eric Shipton was selected to lead the part...
Mount Tiedemann and Other Peaks, Radiant Glacier, Coast Range. On July 16, Joe Firey, Dave Knudson, Michael Martin, Frank de Saussure, Hansueli Hösli and I flew by helicopter to a 7100-foot Base Camp on the Radiant Glacier from Buff Lake. In a day...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount ThompsonOn Sunday, February 22, 1981, a party of three set out to climb Mount Thompson from the Peyto Glacier, using the Peter Whyte Hut as a base. One party member left ahead of the other two and crossed i...
FALL ON ICE, HARNESS CAME OFF-NOT BUCKLED CORRECTLY AND NOT CUPPED IN TO LEG YOKESQuebec, Gatineau Park, Cabin Creek FallsOn January 15, R.P. (48) began to climb Cabin Creek Falls, a water ice Grade 2 or 3 climb, depending on the line taken. He wa...
Polish-American Climbing Exchange. During late August and early September Mark Norden and I spent most of a month in Poland as guests of the Polish Alpine Club, or more specifically, The High Mountain Club of Zakopane, a local affiliate of the nat...
Mischief in Greenland by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis and Carter Ltd, 1964. 192 pages; 28 photos; 2 charts; 3 appendices. Price: 25 s.This is the third book concerning voyages to remote mountain regions accessible by sea in the author’s old pilot ...
An American Ascent of Mont Blanc in 1856Through the courtesy of Mr. Arthur Fairbanks, of Dartmouth College, and Mrs. Chauncey A. Adams, the American Alpine Club has received the alpenstock used by their father, Henry Fairbanks (1830-1918), who rea...
This is the fifty-sixth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-fifth issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: Once again it was the year of the stranded climber in Canada, wit...
Shadows of Doubt, Mount HunterMichael KennedyCLICK! A SIMPLE SOUND: the snap of a crampon heel-bail against a plastic boot, hanging over the side of a portaledge 1000 feet above the Kahiltna Glacier. Just one of dozens of precise mechanical moveme...
Attempt on McArthur Peak. June 7 found all six of us, Bill Dougal, Dick Wahlstrom, Lute Jerstad, Steve Johnson, Ron Priebe and me, at 8200 feet on the north ridge of the highest unclimbed peak in North America, McArthur Peak (14,400 feet). On June...
The End of the MountainsChristopher A. G. JonesLIVING in a large city I accept overcrowding as part of the grim price or today, but recently overcrowding has begun to annoy me where one would least expect it: in the mountains. For me the quality o...
Barrill’s Mount McKinley AffidavitH. Bradford WashburnA major article has emerged on the subject of Dr. Frederick A. Cook’s claim to have made the first ascent of Mount McKinley on September 16, 1906. When Adams Carter and I wrote the article whic...
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section had an active 2006 promoting the AAC’s goals of Knowledge, Conservation, and Community. The Section hosted nine events at which it welcomed AAC members, their guests, visiting climbers, and the publ...
Laramie boys Oliver Deshler and I made two trips into the Clear Creek valley in the northern Winds this summer. As a warm-up, on June 23 we climbed the previously unclimbed north-facing wall of Flat Top Mountain, via the northeast arête: Tru...
Defying Gravity: High Adventure on Yosemite’s Walls. Gary Arce. Wilderness Press, Berkeley, California, 1995. Softcover, 194 pages. $24.95.Defying Gravity is a history of Yosemite rock climbing that provides easy reading and an adequate, if often-...
British Women’s Himalayan Expedition, Kishtwar Himal. Our party included Mrs. Brede Arkless, Mrs. Janet Rogers, Mrs. Audrey Whillans, and me as leader, British; Miss Mary Anne Alburger, American; and Mrs. Shashi Kanta, Indian Liaison officer. We w...
Mount Vancouver (15,787') and Good Neighbor Peak (15,700') complete climbing history. All climbs are described in the following year’s AAJ.1949: Mt. Vancouver (first ascent), via northwest ridge1967: Good Neighbor and Vancouver, (first ascent of G...
Mt. Shkelda, New Route in Winter. Shkelda is a well-known mountain in the Caucasus. Its “Majesty Fence” consists of five main peaks. From west to southeast, they are the First, Second and Third Western peaks, Central Peak and Eastern Peak, plus a ...
Mt. Robson, 1934Mt. Robson has the doubtful distinction of being the peak most frequently attempted, unsuccessfully, in all the Canadian Rockies. The first ascent was made in 1913 from the Robson Glacier by A. H. MacCarthy, W. W. Foster and Conrad...