Cerro Cohete is in Cerduo Alto, which is about 30 minutes southeast of the town of Pucón and just north of Volcán Villarrica (2,847m). The approach is both easy and beautiful. I started opening a route on the east face with my brother Juan Señoret...
In October, Federico Caballero, Rafael Reinoso, and I made the first known ascent of Pico Colina Sur (4,620m; 33°53'54.9"S, 69°51'45.6"W) in the Central Andes. This peak is the highest of the Picos Colina group, on the border between Chile and Arg...
East of the popular Cerro El Plomo (5,424m; 33°14'10"S, 70°12'51"W), near Santiago, El Cajón del Esmeralda stands out immediately for the rugged beauty for which the Central Andes are known: threatening (and threatened) glaciers, imposing rock fac...
In late March, Ramiro Casas and Glauco Muratti (both Argentina) began a long trek south from the town of Punta de Vacas, west of Mendoza, along the Río Tupungato and then southeast along one of its tributaries, Río Salto, to an area of remote and ...
During the 2021 season, I repeated two lesser-known routes and made one first ascent in Peru’s southern ranges. On May 30, I made the fourth known ascent of Callangate (6,110m) in the Cordillera Vilcanota with Mecario Crispin (Peru). We followed ...
After a 2019 trip to the Cordillera Central (AAJ 2020) and, last summer, a mountain bike tour of the Pyrenees combined with some ten climbs throughout the range, I wanted to unite both concepts. My goal was to cycle through little-visited massifs ...
Over the last decade, I’ve climbed Nevado Veronica (5,911m GPS) a handful of times via the north face to northeast ridge. This afforded me a view of an alternative approach to the unclimbed east face; I just had to wait for the opportunity to clim...
On May 1, Jens Hassfeld (Germany), Matthias Rehder (Germany), and I left Curahuasi, where we live and work, to climb Cerro Chaupiloma (5,339m; 13°25'12"S, 72°41'40"W), which had no recorded ascents. After one hour of driving, we passed Mollepata, ...
The major massifs of the Cordillera Vilcabamba were ascended in the 1950s and 1960s. The last of these to be climbed was Nevado Padreyoc (5,771m, 13°22'39"S, 72°44'31"W, a.k.a. Quishuar or Kiswar); Japanese climbers Tetsuju Kawada and Takeshi Rito...
On July 5, Andres Marin, Alex Torres (both from Colombia), and I met up with Cordillera Vilcanota local Luis Crispín in the small town of Pacchanta, at the foot of Ausangate. There, Luis helped Andres, Alex, and I organize logistics and horses for...
In July, the Slovenian Youth Alpine Team, comprised of Blaž Karner, Bor Levičnik, Matija Volontar, and I traveled to the Cordillera Blanca. After acclimatizing, we immediately started preparing for the north face of Hualcán (6,122m), which had b...
In early July, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou made the first ascent of the south face of Huamashraju Este (5,350m), which they called Viva Perú Carajo (80° M7). The route begins in a right-angling corner system and consisted of thinly iced slabs and mixed...
From May 29 to June 6, our crew consisting of Simon Bustamante, Nicolas Davalos (both Ecuador), Austin O'Brien (USA), and I visited the Rurec Valley, establishing a basecamp in the valley at 4,050m. Our goal was to reach the summit of Chaupi Huanc...
In late June, we traveled to the Rurec Valley to attempt Chaupi Huanca (ca 4,850m), after speaking with teams of Spanish and Ecuadorian climbers, who both had attempted the peak recently, about an unfinished route on the northwest spur, quite far ...
In August, Damian Bielecki and I climbed a partial new route on the south face of Ocshapalca (5,888m). We had initially targeted an unclimbed wall in the Honda Valley. Although our hopes were enormous, the local community prevented us from enterin...
Part of what makes the Cordillera Blanca so exceptional for climbers is the proximity of stunning high peaks: Hire a taxi in Huaraz and within an hour or two you can be trekking toward your objective. Following an attempt on Alpamayo, I only had f...
On September 3, Antonio Chinchay, Silio Chinchay (both Peru), and I approached Urus Oeste (5,450m; 9°21'42"S, 77°27'21"W) via the Uruscocha Valley, starting from the town of Pashpa (3,450m). We camped near the second lake in the Uruscocha Valley a...
On August 7, Krzysztof Zabłotny, Marcin Kraszewski, and I (all Poland) climbed a possible new route on the southwest face of Churup Oeste (5,495m). We approached as for the normal route up the southwest face, traversing left and then right on the ...
In early August, Steve Meder (France) and Edward Saona (Peru) climbed the first known route on the southwest face of Nevado Sullcón (5,650m, 11°53'41"S, 76°3'5"W). One month prior, in July, they made a reconnaissance of the face and climbed to the...
The seeds of the 2021 “Lost World Expedition” were planted more than 20 years ago. At that time, my life revolved around new routes on the great walls of the world, but it began to dawn on me that expedition climbing can be a selfish pursuit. As I...