Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Southern Alps: Annual Highlights New Zealand, Southern Alps

The summer of early 2021 was highlighted by a series of adventurous trips into remote areas of the southern ranges. In January, Leonard Brockerhoff, Ed Cromwell, Nick Kowalski, and Ben Mangan made the long trek into the Garden of Allah, via the L...

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| Published 2021 | Author Ben Dare


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Single Piece Pulled Out Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

My partner Mike (46) and I, Tiffany Hauck (50), convened on the morning of June 13. Our sights were set on Wind Ridge (4 pitches, 5.7). We had climbed on the route a month earlier but ended up missing a good portion of the ridge. We wanted to bag ...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tiffany Hauck


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Belay Anchor Failure Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

On August 26, two climbers fell over 100 feet from Wind Ridge (4 pitches, 5.7). Climber 1 was in his 20s and survived with severe injuries. Climber 2 was in his 30s. He sustained fatal injuries. The pair had climbed the first pitch of Tigger (5.6...

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| Published 2021 | Author The Editors


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Torre, East Face and North Face, Brothers in Arms Argentina, Southern Patagonia

From January 25 to 27, 2022, David Bacci, Matteo Della Bordella, and Matteo “Giga” De Zaiacomo (all from Italy) climbed a 1,200-meter line up the east and north faces of Cerro Torre. The climb, which they called Brothers in Arms, was the culminati...

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| Published 2022 | Author Information from Matteo Della Bordella and Pataclimb.com


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Norte: A New Line Up the North Face of Cerro Torre, With a Tragic Conclusion Argentina, Southern Patagonia

In 2013, Nicolas Benedetti and I attempted the north face of Cerro Torre for the first time. We did not have a clear strategy nor much information. We reached the north face via the American Torre Egger route [the 1976 route, which began up the ea...

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| Published 2022 | Author Tomás Aguiló


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chachacomani, Northeast to Southwest Traverse Via Complete Northeast Ridge Bolivia, Cordillera Real

On August 20, Fiona Tummon (Dutch/Irish, resident in Switzerland) and I, with a driver, left La Paz at 5 a.m. Before reaching the little village of Peñas, we took the road to Laguna Khara Khota and then over the Paso Mullu, which crosses the Cordi...

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| Published 2021 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chaltén Massif 2021–2022 Season Summary Argentina, Southern Patagonia

The climate continues changing. Weather patterns in Patagonia are strongly influenced by the north-south location of the low-pressure belt surrounding Antarctica. From 1980 on, this belt has trended southward—more pronounced during the summer—whic...

| Keywords Chalten, Rolo
| Published 2022 | Author Rolando Garibotti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Capicúa, Southwest Face, Raices Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó

In March 2022, Alexis Rojas and I managed to finish a route on the far right side of Cerro Capicúa, which I had started one year ago with the help of Isidora Montesinos and Benjamin Lira. In all, the route took me 11 days spread across these vario...

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| Published 2022 | Author Nicolás Gutiérrez


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Torres del Brujo, New Routes Chile, Central Andes, Sierra del Brujo

The Torres del Brujo (34°42'10"S, 70°22'22"W) comprise a little-visited area of granite spires near the terminus of Glaciar Universidad (ca 3,000m), 50km east of San Fernando, Chile. [Editor’s note: See AAJ 1999, 2005, 2008, and 2010 for more back...

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| Published 2022 | Author Nicolás Gutiérrez


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro San Francisco, southeast face, new variation Chile, Central Andes

In late July 2021, Nicolás Gutierrez, Rodrigo Diaz, and I climbed a new variation on the elegant southeast face of Cerro San Francisco (4,345m; 33°44' 52"S, 70°5' 17"W), located in Monumento Natural El Morado, just southwest of Cerro Morado (4,647...

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| Published 2021 | Author Cristobal Senoret


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Catedral, North Face, Dos Hermanos Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine

We started thinking about Cerro Catedral after seeing its 1,000m east face from Trono Blanco in 2019. Over January 18–19, 2022, we ventured to open the first route on the north face of this jewel. [The north face is accessed from Valle del Francés...

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| Published 2022 | Author Cristóbal Señoret and Juan Señoret


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cordillera Riesco, Grupo la Paz Chile, Southern Patagonia

After a chance encounter with Don Guillermo, a generous local fisherman, Jose Navarro, Nicolás “Nico” Secul (both from Chile), and I sailed west from Puerto Natales into the Canal Santa María on October 28, 2021. After a six-hour boat ride, we mad...

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| Published 2022 | Author Sebastian Pelletti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro San Luis, South Face, Memoria Kawésqar Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cordón Monumento Moore

On August 30, Camilo Pedreros, Nicolás “Nico” Secul (both Chile), and I kayaked west from Estancia Perales (30km northwest of Puerto Natales) across Fiordo Última Esperanza to reach Península Antonio Varas in the northern part of Cordón Monumento ...

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| Published 2021 | Author Sebastian Pelletti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
La Hoja, East Face, Cuarzo Menguante Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine

In late January 2022, Pepo Jurado (Ecuador) and I ventured into Valle Bader hoping to climb a new route on La Hoja. I had attempted a line on the east face a few years ago but was shut down due to a bottoming crack and an icy roof. This time, we ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Sebastian Pelletti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cuerno Este, North Face, Vacaciones Metamórficas Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine

In mid-December, Romano Marcotti (Chile) and I ventured into the Valle Bader in Torres del Paine to check out a project of mine. After discovering that conditions weren’t great, we decided on the north face Cuerno Este, ascending a line that looke...

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| Published 2022 | Author Sebastian Pelletti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Ilse Von Rentzell, South Face to Southeast Ridge Chile, Southern Patagonia, Southern Patagonian Icefield

The Cordón Ilse Von Rentzell, located approximately 50km northwest of the Chaltén Massif, contains numerous beautiful and challenging summits, all of them believed to be unclimbed prior to our 2021 expedition. The range is named after German-born ...

| Keywords Rentezel
| Published 2021 | Author Natalia Martínez


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Llave de Granito, Northwest Arête to North Ridge Chile, Northern Patagonia, Aysén Region

Sitting on Jim Donini's deck in Patagonia, a world of peaks can be seen, many of them unclimbed. Jim has taken to saying, “Climb the view.” In the spirit of his project to do just that, Weston Boyles, Max Schilling, and I made the first ascent (to...

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| Published 2021 | Author Gregory De Pascale


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Silvia, Northeast Face Chile, Aysén Region, Northern Patagonian Icefield

In late October, Rebeca Caceres, Isidora Llarena, and I met in Puerto Guadal with the goal of climbing of Cerro Silvia (2,770m; 47°10'4"S, 73°29'33"W) on the Northern Patagonian Icefield. We departed for Valle Colonia on the 26th with three 75-pou...

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| Published 2021 | Author Nadine Lehner


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Cohete, East Face Chile, Northern Patagonia, Región De Los Lagos

Cerro Cohete is in Cerduo Alto, which is about 30 minutes southeast of the town of Pucón and just north of Volcán Villarrica (2,847m). The approach is both easy and beautiful. I started opening a route on the east face with my brother Juan Señoret...

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| Published 2021 | Author Cristobal Señoret


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pico Colina Sur, Indirettissima Argentina-Chile, Central Andes

In October, Federico Caballero, Rafael Reinoso, and I made the first known ascent of Pico Colina Sur (4,620m; 33°53'54.9"S, 69°51'45.6"W) in the Central Andes. This peak is the highest of the Picos Colina group, on the border between Chile and Arg...

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| Published 2021 | Author Damir Mandakovic