On November 11, Joshua Brown (23) and a partner (22) were climbing in an undeveloped area that required 3rd- and 4th-class scrambling up a loose slope to access the base of the crag. The pair finished a ground-up, trad first ascent and began packi...
On May 29, a 25-year-old male climber was assisted to the NPS medical tent at 14,200-foot camp by his climbing partners. The team reported they had flown to 7,200-foot camp and immediately moved to 11,200-foot camp. They then spent two nights at t...
In the early morning hours of May 29, Denali mountaineering rangers were notified of an SOS activation at 11,200-foot camp. Ranger teams on the mountain at the 7,200-, 7,800-, and 14,200-foot camps were notified and involved in the information gat...
On the afternoon of May 22, two male climbers left 14,200-foot camp for 17,200-foot camp. The 57-year-old male and 56-year-old male embarked on their climb in spite of weather warnings from rangers and during winds gusting to 40 mph in camp. After...
On May 13, Denali mountaineering rangers received an SOS message from a Garmin inReach satellite device. At 6:01 a.m., rangers began two-way communications with a climbing party comprised of Climber 1 (male, 31) and Climber 2 (male, 32). These cli...
On May 1, a 23-year-old female and 28-year-old male flew onto the South Spur of the Eldridge Glacier with the intent of exploring ski mountaineering objectives in the vicinity. This spur of the Eldridge Glacier originates to the northeast of the R...
Less than two weeks prior to completing the first ascent of the 4,600-foot north face of Mt. Neacola (5.10 A2 M6), a trio of New Hampshire-based climbers were nearly killed in an avalanche. On April 1, I (31), Ryan Driscoll (34), and Justin Guari...
In June 2021, I led a group from Iskanderkul lake to Sarytag village, then west and south to the Mura Valley, leading off the Zambar Valley. The Mura Valley, located in the Hissar (a.k.a. Gissar) Range, has a small glacier with a beautiful lake, a...
Several unnamed peaks line the Nangma Valley, one of which Jonathan Schaffer and I attempted to climb in August. [This mountain, at approximately 35°21’58.82”N, 76°29’24.54”E, is labeled Peak 19, 5,007m, on Jerzy Wala’s orographic map of the K6 Gr...
Our trip in June to attempt unclimbed Biarchedi I (6,810m, 35°40'22.22"N, 76°24'20.83"E) can be summed up in two words: bad weather. One day after Ralf Dujmovits and I reached base camp, after a trek under clear blue skies, the weather turned for ...
To acclimatize for our main objective, Takayasu Semba and I first attempted Laila Peak. We arrived in early June to find the temperature—and consequently the avalanche danger—far too high. We turned around at 5,400m. After moving by vehicle to Ka...
From mid-July to late August, Martin Sieberer (Austria) and I attempted to reach unclimbed Praqpa Ri Central (7,156m, 35°49'47.30"N, 76°25'57.09"E) to the west of K2. However, even while approaching the mountain we noticed “monsoon-like” weather, ...
Uli Biaho Gallery seen from the Trango Glacier. For the line of the 2014 Ecuadorian route, see AAJ 2015. Four other routes have been climbed close to the left arête of this wall. Photo by Marcin Tomaszewski As young boys we lived and breathed...
Hélias Millerioux and Patrick Wagnon (both from France) completed the first known alpine-style ascent of the rarely climbed southwest ridge of Rakaposhi (7,788m), summiting on July 26. This was the route used on the first ascent of the mountain in...
The head of Mistake Creek in the Earl Mountains is seldom visited in winter, at least not by climbers. It’s a cold and dark place, but when I first ventured there in the winter of 2020, to climb the south face of Pyramid Peak (2,295m, AAJ 2021), m...
The summer of early 2021 was highlighted by a series of adventurous trips into remote areas of the southern ranges. In January, Leonard Brockerhoff, Ed Cromwell, Nick Kowalski, and Ben Mangan made the long trek into the Garden of Allah, via the L...
My partner Mike (46) and I, Tiffany Hauck (50), convened on the morning of June 13. Our sights were set on Wind Ridge (4 pitches, 5.7). We had climbed on the route a month earlier but ended up missing a good portion of the ridge. We wanted to bag ...
On August 26, two climbers fell over 100 feet from Wind Ridge (4 pitches, 5.7). Climber 1 was in his 20s and survived with severe injuries. Climber 2 was in his 30s. He sustained fatal injuries. The pair had climbed the first pitch of Tigger (5.6...
From January 25 to 27, 2022, David Bacci, Matteo Della Bordella, and Matteo “Giga” De Zaiacomo (all from Italy) climbed a 1,200-meter line up the east and north faces of Cerro Torre. The climb, which they called Brothers in Arms, was the culminati...
In 2013, Nicolas Benedetti and I attempted the north face of Cerro Torre for the first time. We did not have a clear strategy nor much information. We reached the north face via the American Torre Egger route [the 1976 route, which began up the ea...