Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Insufficient Pad Placement California, San Diego, Santee Boulders

On the afternoon of March 6, Joseph Chen (33) fell from near the top of American Express (5.9). The climb is described on Mountain Project as a top-rope. However, the 15-foot granite slab is often climbed as a boulder problem. Chen was unroped. C...

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| Published 2021 | Author Joseph Chen


Accident Reports ANAM
Leg Stuck in Crack California, Joshua Tree National Park, Left Horse Area

On a spring day in Joshua Tree, a climber returned to practice roped soloing after many years away from the sport. He started up Granny Goose (5.7), a 50-foot traditional route in a well-traveled area. After passing the initial flake on the route,...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mountain Project and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall California, Joshua Tree National Park, Echo Rock Boulders

In March, Lucy Kim (23) fell from Classic Thin Crack (V2) in Joshua Tree, severely damaging her left ankle. With her hands at the top, Kim chose to jump off in order to retry the problem. Below were six crash pads and two spotters. She fell in an ...

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| Published 2021 | Author Lucy Kim


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall California, High Desert, Apple Valley Area, Alessandria

On Saturday, March 6, Tylea Brown (39) and her husband, Casey Cruz (32), accompanied by their two young daughters, were enjoying climbing in the Southern California high desert. After completing several single-pitch routes, Brown was belaying Cruz...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tylea Brown and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Rappel Error California, Echo Cliffs, The Grotto

My wife (Kelly Perkins, 59) and I (Craig Perkins, 60) have rock climbed for 20 years. After a long hiatus, I took time to refresh my skills, including anchor building, knots, and gear placement. Our climb, Miss Pacman (5.9, sport), was fun and ini...

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| Published 2021 | Author Craig Perkins


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on 4th-Class Rock — Climbing Unroped California, High Sierra, Palisades

On May 31, Vik Waghray (24) fell to his death while traversing from Temple Crag to Mt. Gayley. He and Michael Layton (45) were attempting the long and arduous Temple- Gayley-Sill-Thunderbolt traverse. The pair had summited Temple Crag and were on...

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| Published 2021 | Author Michael Layton


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Protection, Inexperience California, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral Peak

On August 13, BJ Cook and I responded to an accident while climbing on the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak, a five-pitch, 5.6 traditional climb in Tuolumne Meadows. BJ and I are experienced climbers and have many moderate multi-pitch trad cli...

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| Published 2021 | Author Matthew Lee


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South Early Winters Spire, Two Hard New Routes United States, Washington, North Cascades

Nathan Hadley on pitch two of Rubbernecker (600’, IV 5.14-). Photo by Jeremiah Watt   Shortly after moving to Washington in 2015, I was scouring the guidebooks for aid lines to free. In 2016, I found Midnight Ride (600’, 5.9 A4) in Fred Beck...

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| Published 2022 | Author Nathan Hadley


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

On June 16, Matthew “Mash” Alexander (50) was struck by rockfall in the face and head as he slept. He and his climbing partner, Sean McGinness (48), were bivying in hammocks midway up El Cap, near the Nose route. The team had spent seven nights o...

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| Published 2021 | Author Climbing.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Free Soloing Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 11, Josh Ourada (31) fell while free soloing Nutcracker (5 pitches, 5.8) on the Manure Pile Buttress. Ourada has been climbing for over ten years and was no stranger to free soloing. He had climbed Nutcracker before, both with and without...

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| Published 2021 | Author Josh Ourada, Climbing Magazine and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Roped Soloing, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 13, Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) responded to a roped soloist who had fallen and injured himself while climbing the second pitch of After Six (5 pitches, 5.7) on Manure Pile Buttress. It was reported that the rope-soloist had come t...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Exposure and Weather California, Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

In the evening of October 17, two climbers, Kate (28) and Nick (26), started up the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (23 pitches, 5.9 C2) after completing the Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, 5.9 C2) earlier in the same day. Nick and Kate were b...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Off Route, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Five Open Books

On March 4, two climbers, “Jeff” and “Erin,” climbed Munginella (3 pitches, 5.6) to the base of Selaginella (4 pitches, 5.8) in the Five Open Books area near Yosemite Falls. The pair were both experienced, and these routes were within their abilit...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Third-Class Traverse California, Tahoe Area, Newly Developed Area

I (Bobby Hutton, 31) wanted to show my friend Adam a new area that my friends and I were developing. In early April, we decided to drop lines down a cliff to work on new routes. To access the top of the cliff, we crossed a steep granite gully and...

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| Published 2021 | Author Bobby Hutton


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Protection California, Lake Tahoe Area, Cloudburst Canyon, Green Tongue Area

On July 17 my girlfriend, Hannah (29), and I (30) went out for a day in an obscure climbing area, just southeast of Lake Tahoe, called Cloudburst Canyon. On my third climb I fell at the crux, ripped three pieces of protection, and fell to the grou...

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| Published 2021 | Author Kyle Broxterman


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Fracture, Spinal Injury California, Northern Sierra, Rainbow

On May 27, while climbing at Rainbow, west of Donner Pass, I (Carl Alsup, 39) rappelled off the end of my rope. I had just led Malcolm’s Route (5.9) to the top of the formation. My wife was going to follow but decided she was going to save her str...

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| Published 2021 | Author Carl Alsup


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest California, Mt. Shasta, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

On June 19, a family of seven from Utah attempted to climb the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge route. By midmorning they had begun the steeper section of the route at 12,300 feet. They were all roped together—with no intermediate protection nor belay anchors—w...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

In the afternoon of April 9, a solo climber took a glancing blow to the thigh by a quoted “500-pound rock” while climbing Avalanche Gulch. The climber was near the Heart, which is the steepest part of the route, with slopes reaching 35°. Another s...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Boulder Rolled Onto Leg California, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Route

The east side of Mt. Shasta in September 2012 (left) and September 2021 (right). Exceptionally dry conditions in 2021 contributed to a number of accidents on the mountain. Photo by Phil Rhodes On June 23, a lone male (31) was climbing the Cle...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Ranger Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Improperly Clipped Anchor Tether Arizona, Cochise Stronghold, Owl Rock

On the afternoon of January 31, Tim Parker (35) suffered a ground fall from the anchors of Naked Prey (5.12a) in Cochise Stronghold. Parker is a climber with over 15 years of experience. His partner, Darcy Mullen (32), is a climber of over 10 year...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tim Parker and Darcy Mullen