On April 13, Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) responded to a roped soloist who had fallen and injured himself while climbing the second pitch of After Six (5 pitches, 5.7) on Manure Pile Buttress. It was reported that the rope-soloist had come to Yosemite originally intending to climb with a partner. He was an experienced climber in his mid-50s and, unable to find a partner, he decided to rope-solo this relatively easy route.

The soloist initially scrambled up a 3rd-class ledge to the right of the first pitch. From there, he set his first anchor and began to rope-solo, belaying himself as he climbed. It is unclear precisely what self-belay system he was using. While climbing the second pitch he fell, taking a large pendulum swing and hitting the wall, injuring his neck. He attempted to self-rescue and lower himself to the ground but was in too much pain. He called Yosemite Search and Rescue to assist in the rescue.

Within one hour of the incident, YOSAR arrived. A team member scrambled up 3rd class to the base of the second pitch—the location of the injured climber. Rescuers built an anchor and packaged the patient in a litter, then lowered a rescuer and patient to the ground, where he was carried out in a wheeled litter to El Capitan Picnic Area.

ANALYSIS

In this case, placing extra gear may have lessened the length and severity of the fall. In low-angle terrain (often found on “easy” climbs in the 5.6–5.8 range), a leader fall of almost any length can result in hitting a ledge, causing injury. Additionally, the risk of a head or neck injury is greatly increased in low-angle terrain, where a backward fall could flip the climber upside down before hitting the rock. This climber was wearing a helmet.

Climbing with a partner is usually safer. Having another uninjured person to help in the case of an accident could be the difference between being able to self-rescue or needing to call search and rescue. In this case, luckily, the climber had cell phone service. Be sure to know when and where you may have reception in case of an emergency. (Source: Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers.)