Mount Louis, South Face. Jerry Fuller and I made a new route on the south face of Mount Louis, starting directly above the saddle between Louis and Edith. The first leads followed a large gully system, where we had difficult aid and 5th class clim...
Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I made the first ascent of this face from January 13 to 15, 1978, including the approach. The face seems to be the largest in the range, vertically higher and steeper than the...
Temple of Sinawava, The Not So Secret Show. In October, Todd Stephens, Tyler Philips, and Troy Anderson climbed The Not So Secret Show (IV+ 5.10 A3, seven pitches) on the Temple of Sinawava. Descent was made by hiking the ridge west toward Angel’s...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in the section increased during the year to 68, a new record. Four meetings were held, and the following excellent programs were given: the astonishing ascent and tragic descent of the east face of Mount H...
Yosemite Valley, an Intimate Guide, by Ansel F. Hall, chief naturalist of the National Park Service. National Park Publishing House, Berkeley, California.A similar book to the preceding, and a very comprehensive one. Any one digesting all the mate...
Numbur. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter McInally climbed Numbur (6954 meters, 22,815 feet) via the southwest ridge, the route of the French in 1981. They had an advance base and two high camps. On March 29 Mclnally, Rob Hall, Bill King, Stev...
P 5334, Gabral Glacier, Swat Kohistan. The Gifu Mountaineering Association expedition was made up of Masaru Tsuzuki, Masanori Sujita, Yoshihiro Iwasa, Harumi Hibino and Ryozai Nakahara. From Kalam they went to establish Base Camp on June 2 at the ...
President Pass. In the Guidebook, page 114, the elevation of 8899 ft. is incorrect and should be 9469 ft.
Pisco, Cordillera Blanca. On July 19 Rolando Cabezas and Luis Campos, Chileans, and Felipe Palominos, Peruvian, reached the summit of Pisco (c. 19,000 feet) by the normal route. The expedition of the Chilean Club Nacional de Andinismo y Ski was le...
Mount Tupper, West Buttress of South Face. After several abortive attempts on the south face, Glen Spillman and I climbed the west buttress, a fine climb on sharp, sound quartzite. Unfortunately an imminent electrical storm forced us to traverse t...
Nevado Huallanca, Koso. Between the cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash is the small Cordillera Huallanca. Although it does not rise above 6000m, it offers beautiful mountains with glaciers and rocks. David Rodriguez Lopez climbed the mountain known ...
Palcaraju Este and Copap Group. Although our expedition was away from Switzerland from May 22 to September 11, we climbed for only five weeks. We were Pierre-André Jaunin, Lucien Rentchnik, Michel Duport and I. After three weeks struggling with th...
Avalanche School at Alta, Utah. The primary objective of this school, under the supervision of the U.S. Forest Service, was to give training in avalanche studies: terrain analysis, climate analysis, snow studies and records, hazard forecasting, pr...
Manaslu. After the German-Swiss expedition mentioned above had climbed the peak, Germans led by Günther Sturm repeated the ascent also by the normal route. They placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 5200, 6200, 6800 and 7400 meters on April 19 and 28 ...
Cutthroat Peak. In August, Hugh Sincock and I climbed a new route on the southwest side of Cutthroat Peak. This is a clean, winding gully that joins the west ridge just below the summit. It is the second gully right (south) of the ridge. The climb...
P 3129, Northeast Buttress. On November 7, Chris Breemer and I arrived at the base of Mount Morrison to find its north face out of condition, or at least out of condition for us. Rather than to go home without accomplishing anything on such a warm...
Khwaja Muhammad Range. Yasu Takeuchi led nine members of the High School Athletic Association of Fukuoka. Leaving Kabul on July 8, they entered the mountains via Anjuman village and established Base Camp on the 17th. The highest peaks climbed were...
Mather, North Ridge. In three short days, Jeff Apple Benowitz and I reached the bottom of the climb from the Denali Park Road via Glacier Creek. The lower part of the ridge has impossibly rotten rock. We avoided this by climbing a 2000-foot couloi...
Latok III, west face, attempt and tragedy. A strong Russian team met with tragedy during their attempt on the unclimbed 2,000-meter-high West Face of Latok III (6949m). Igor Barikhin, Mikhail Davy, Sergey Khadzhinov, Alexander Klenov, Alexander Ru...
Parchamo, Rolwaling Himal. A group of 12 Swedish Mountaineers visited the Rolwaling Himal in October and early November. Four of us spent two very cold nights on the Teshi Lapcha Pass, from which my wife Lena Karlkvist made a solo (!) ascent of Pa...