Kalanka, Southeast Face. Allen Fyffe and I, ably assisted by our liaison officer, Mandip Singh Soin, established our Base Camp at the junction of the Changabang and Uttar Rishi glaciers on September 20 and Advanced Base on the Changabang Glacier beneath Changabang, Kalanka and the “Fang.” We made a new route on Kalanka, starting up the broken rocky rib falling from the prominent prow on the southeast ridge. At about half height we left the rib and followed the steep face leftwards to join the southeast ridge a short way from the top, reaching the summit on October 11. The weather was generally good during our stay, but after the first week of October a bitterly cold wind that increased daily made climbing at altitude a difficult proposition. A snowfall on October 19, just before the porters arrived, made the upper Rishi Gorge, from Pathalkhan to Ramani very hazardous. It would have been advisable to start the walk out on October 15.

Robert D. Barton, Scottish Mountaineering Club