THE very first ideas about mountain troops for the U. S. Army sprang from the stories about mountain fighting both in the first and second world wars. When the U. S. Army started its rapid expansion in the fall of 1940, the campaigns of the German...
South Howser Minaret, Bad Hair Day. Late in August Lizzy Scully and I drove to the Bugaboo trailhead. After porcupine-proofing Lizzy’s Volvo with chicken wire, we began the approach. We hiked the first day to the Applebee Campground, a primitive c...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. On April 12, 1996, Paul Claus, Carlos Buhler, Ruedi Homberger, Reto Ruesch and Charlie Sassara made the first ascent of Mount Miller on the Bagley ice field in the Wrangell/St. Elias Mountains. The ascent followed a ...
ROGER W. TOLL 1883-1936On February 25th, 1936, the National Park Service incurred a staggering loss when two of its outstanding leaders, Roger W. Toll, superintendent of Yellowstone National Park, and George Wright, chief of the Wild Life Division...
West Coast, various first ascents. The 10m fiberglass yacht Dodo’s Delight, skippered by Bob Shepton again visited the West Coast. After sailing from Scotland to Godthab (Nuuk) via Cape Farewell, the crew progressed a short distance to 65°N and an...
Imagination-Grands Charmoz North FaceJohn Bouchard… L’imagination, inquiète et débile Vient rendre nul en eux l’effort de la Raison.Dans leurs veines le sang, subtil comme un poison,Brûlant comme une lave, et rare, et coule et roule En grésillant ...
JULIA GRINNELL1888–1960Love of the outdoors was foremost among the many attributes of Julia Grinnell. She loved to travel, too, and travel she did to many countries of the world to take part in mountain climbing, white-water canoeing and ornitholo...
Our muscles tensed when we heard the air rushing across the rock face. Seconds later we were rudely buffeted by an incredibly strong and ferocious blast of wind. We worried lest our excellent Austrian bivouac sack should tear and leave us com...
JULIUS REINHOLD BOEHM 1897-1981Julius sat with his back against the warm rocks on the upper crater rim of Mount Rainier. He was writing in the summit register. I looked over his shoulder and read the words, “America is the greatest country in the ...
Nico Sar, First Ascent. On August 12, 2000, Amy Rice and Walter Keller (U.S.) completed an alpine style onsight ascent of a previously unclimbed peak that they christened Nico Sar. Nico Sar (ca. 5800m) is located in the far western Karakoram on th...
In September, Recep Ince (Turkey), Plinio Botterini, Massimo Sacchi, and I (all from Italy) completed the first ascent of the west face of Coban Kiri by a route we named Top Secret. This was my fourth visit in three years to Ala Daglar to climb ne...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER Washington, Mount BakerOn August 3,1986, Ian Kraabel (23), director of Summit Mountain Guides from Seattle, was guiding Steve Raschik (21), Tom Waller (19), and Kurt Petellin (20) on a climb of Mount Baker after two days of moun...
Mt. Vinson, southwest face, first ascent of Double003. In 1992 I’d completed the first solo ascent of a new route on a prominent ridge bordering the southwest face (The Rolex Ridge) and looked across at the huge unclimbed expanse of the mountain t...
FIVE minutes before our expected arrival in Karachi, Pakistan, the loud-speaker boomed, “This is your pilot. Karachi Airport is closed due to flooding from monsoon rains. Our flight is diverted towards New Delhi.” Sunrise found us still flying n...
Rolando had talked about Ala Daglar for a couple of years, both for its rock faces and his friends Recep and Zeynep Ince. This husband and wife team, engineers and climbers from Istanbul, were so in love with the place and its tranquility that the...
Everest: The Testing Place. John B. West. McGraw Hill, New York, 1985. 187 pages, illustrated. $18.95.You might think that some 200 books and countless articles would have exhausted all there was to say about Everest, but not so. There is a specia...
AN ACTIVE GLACIER IN NEVADASome years ago I ran across an article in the "Fifth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey, 1883-84,” entitled: "Permanent Ice on the Mountains of the Great Basin.” It described a body of ice on Jeff Davis...
Chichiccapac and Aricoma Groups, Cordillera Carabaya; Verónica or Huacrahuilki, Cordillera Urubamba, 1973. (For the full names of the climbers and for their Cordillera Blanca climbs, see above.—Editor.) Chichiccapac (18,426 feet) had been climbed ...
Chaukhamba, Garhwal. An Indian Air Force expedition under the leadership of Air Commodore S. N. Goyal made the second ascent of Chaukhamba in October of 1959.Trisul. The first Jugoslav Himalayan expedition visited the Trisul region of Garhwal. The...
Frequented and Unfrequented Ways in the Selkirks and RockiesNoel E. OdellIT is well known to many that the western slopes of the Selkirk range and of its outlying western foothills are, owing to copious precipitation, covered with some of the dens...