Bona, Wrangell Mountains. On June 16, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Norm Lawler and me to 10,500 feet on the Klutlan Glacier, south of Bona (5029 meters, 16,500 feet). It took us a week in almost constant storm to move up and occupy Camp I at 12,800...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayAfter completing an ascent of the north face of Mount Fay on September 16, 1991, Bill E. and a friend were descending the west ridge, when they reached a ten-meter step. In order to rappel, t...
Sosbun Spire. In 1986, Poles led by Janusz Skorek reconnoitered the little known Sosbun valley, west of the Biafo Glacier. This inspired a five-person Italian expedition to visit the region. Led by Paolo Vitali, they established Base Camp at 3800 ...
The Arganglas Group, exploration and first ascents. During September a joint Indo-American- British expedition explored the previously unvisited Arganglas Group, which lies south of the Sasar Kangri Range. The Arganglas region is home to the Argan...
Nilgiri North. A Korean expedition led by Kang Han-Chul climbed Nilgiri North (7061 meters, 23,166 feet) by its southeast face. On September 7, Park Yong-Hwan, Kim Youn-Su, Maila Pemba Sherpa and Gomba Sherpa completed the sixth ascent. The next d...
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. The Japanese climber Moromu Omiya returned for his third attempt on the unclimbed 6,190m summit of Latok V. Omiya, who made the first ascent of Latok IV in 1980, attempted this small peak in both 1999 and 2000 via the so...
Noshaq, First Winter Ascent. A ten-man Polish team climbed Noshaq on February 13. Led by Andrzej Zawada, the other members were Tadeusz Piotrowski, Budny, Czechowki, Dmoch, Fijlkowski, Jedlinski, Koisar, Mierzejewski and Wozniak. Base Camp was est...
Cholatse. Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,129 feet) was successfully climbed by all members by the west rib to the southwest ridge. The summit was reached on September 26 by New Zealanders Martin Hunter, leader, Derek Chinn and Can Falkner and on Octobe...
East Africa International Mountain Guide. Andrew Wielochowski. West Col Productions, Goring, 1986. 151 pages, photographs, line drawings, maps, bibliography. $25.00 (U.S.).This is a welcome addition to climbing book shelves to sit alongside Guide ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Icicle River Canyon, Snow LakesOn July 31, 1993, Rolf Sonnerup (28) was climbing on a popular rock face across the road from the Snow Lakes trailhead. His partner was 50 feet above Sonnerup and dislodged a rock that struck ...
Important changes were also found to have been taking place among the smaller glaciers. The terminus of Clear Creek Glacier has retreated very considerably during the last few decades. Glacial ice in the southwest draw up which runs the Sisson Tra...
Ak-Su, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. The members of our expedition were Christopher Watts, Caradse Jones, Jeremy Gore, Nicola Dugan, Siobhan Sheridan and I. Watts and I made a new line on the north face of Ak-Su (5355 meters, 17,569 feet) on June 2...
Washington—Mt. Daniel—Salmon La Sac area—On Sept. 1, a Mountaineer Experience Climb party of four was traversing unroped on a rock and heather slope on the way to Mt. Daniel. The three most experienced climbers in the party crossed onto a moderate...
PARTY SEPARATED, STRANDED—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington Ravine. To the left of the main gully (Central Gully) in Huntington Ravine are several precipices, the lower of which is known as “The Pinnacle.” Several technical climbing routes...
Cho Oyu, 1991. In addition to the ascents given in AAJ, 1992, an Italian ascent should be noted. On September 28, 1991, Sergio De Leo reached the summit by the normal route on the western side from the north.Luciano Ghigo, Club Alpino Italiano
Bill Forrest and I made this climb in early June. The west face route on Tucupit follows the prominent crack splitting the face of the buttress left of center. A more indefinite crack lies to its right. We approached via the north fork of Taylor C...
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Spearman PeakKeith Boyer (20), Steve Nickolls (24), and three companions reached the summit of Spearman Peak by the northwest face about 1800 hours on 12 August...
Angel’s Landing, Mostly American Route. It’s getting harder to find a new route on Angel’s Landing. This face inspired some of the first big routes in the park and contains the park’s greatest concentration of wall routes. We had eyed a route on t...
Ketil, West Face, Southwest Greenland, 1984. This giant rock tooth rises above the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord near the southern tip of Greenland to a height of 2010 meters (6595 feet). The first ascent was made in 1974 by Austrians by the so...
Pisco West, East Face, Canadian Non-Direct. In May, Chris Geisler and I established the route Canadian Non-Direct (5.9 WI 4+ 90°, 400m) on the east face of Pisco West (5752m) in 12 hours. (This face was climbed in 1977 by John Bouchard and Marie M...