Saint Exupery, Tical, and other ascents. This year’s seven-week trip to Patagonia didn’t start well. I flew out of London on New Year’s Day while everyone else was ice skating in Fontainebleau. After four weeks of high winds, long hikes, tendoniti...
Mt. Wrangell Project. (The following is an excerpt from a report by Philip C. Bettler, leader of the 1954 project.—Editor.)The Mt. Wrangell high-altitude laboratory was reoccupied during the summer of 1954 and operated for the period from June 28t...
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Manos al Cielo. My friend Cheyne Lempe had never been to Patagonia. He’d never set foot on a glacier or climbed a new route. January 2012 was full of new experiences for Cheyne.Just a few days after our arriva...
Sangemar Mar, Southwest Face Attempt. Our Belgian expedition to Sangemar Mar (“The Shining Mountain”) had as members, Jean-Claude LeGros, Marcel Charlier, Bertrand Borrey, Marc Debaecke, Vincent Dewaele, Albert Decremer, André Menu, Jean-Claude Co...
In November Michal Rosecky, Tomas Sobotka, and I visited Wadi Rum. We were interested in this area because we come from the Czech Republic, where most rock climbing is on sandstone. We’ve put up many new routes in our country and wanted to make ...
Cerro Juriques. I ascended Juriques volcano (5710 meters, 18,733 feet) in December 1972, from a camp located at 14,100 feet in the higher Cajón valley, to the south of the peak; it lies on the Chilean-Bolivian border east of San Pedro de Atacama. ...
High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Other Unforgiving Places. David Breashears. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1999. 16 color photos. 309 pages. $26.00.It would be a great injustice for High Exposure to be regarded in any potential r...
FALL ON ROCK – BELAY FAILURE (UNSECURED ROPE, DISTRACTION), NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Five Open BooksOn August 11, my brothers, Eric (26) and Thayne (19), and I, Grace Rich (31), were visiting Yosemite and we decided to go climbing. Er...
Everest Attempt via Hornbein Couloir and Tragedy. L’Esprit d’Equipe had post-monsoon permits for the Great and Hornbein Couloirs on the north face of Everest. We concentrated on the Hornbein Couloir so that Benoit Chamoux might try a ski descent f...
CHARLES GRANVILLE BRUCE1866–1939The death in London last July at the age of seventy-three of Brigadier-General The Hon. C. G. Bruce takes away another of the outstanding figures of our day in the alpine world. General Bruce had a great love for th...
El Capitan, The Shield, Rescue and Judicial Precedent. On May 16, Austrians Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer requested a rescue from The Shield on El Capitan that eventually involved 38 park personnel and two helicopters. In the debriefi...
AVALANCHE, HELICOPTER/SKI OPERATIONS—British Columbia, Cariboo Mountains. On 17 February 1974, three groups of ten skiers each on a helicopter ski week with Canadian Mountain Holidays were skiing a 3000-foot slope eight miles from the town of Vale...
Himalayas Photographs and text by Yoshikazu Shirakawa. Testimonial by Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Deva, King of Nepal. Preface by Arnold Toynbee. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Essay, “The Great Himalayas,” by Kyuya Fukuda. New York: Harry N. Ab...
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont Pinnacle, Lac Lyster. On July 2, a climber displaced, by a few inches, a block near the top of La Voie Normale on MontPinnacle. On July 6 and 7, ropes passed the block to check it and found it stable. On the 8th, a group ...
A Picture History of Mountaineering, by Ronald Clark. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1956. 350 ills.; explanatory text. Price $5.95.Mr. Clark, whose noteworthy "Victorian Mountaineers" and other related books have been reviewed in earlier issues...
Siniolchu. Siniolchu (6887 meters, 22,595 feet) is probably the most beautiful peak in Sikkim. It was first climbed by Germans in 1936 and again in 1937. In 1979, about 20 Indians from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute, climbing on three d...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – TOOL PLACEMENTWashington, Banks Lake, Brush BashOn 30 December, RM (23), while leading Brush Bash, WI 4, (one pitch) at Banks Lake, Washington, sustained a leader fall resulting in a badly sprained left ankle. ...
Mount Asgard, Northeast Face and Mount Frigga, West Pillar. John Rzeczycki and I spent 50-plus days in the Asgard region of Baffin Island from late June through late August. After arriving at Base Camp via helicopter, we spent 20 days establishing...
What Are the Chances of Climbing Kangchenjunga?Norman G. DyhrenfurthKangchenjunga has always held for me a fascination that cannot be put into words. Although I have not been there, I have studied most of the available literature on the subject, a...
Chamar Attempt. An expedition of ten Englishmen and an American led by Robert Brown hoped to climb Chamar, Shringi Himal (7187 meters, 23,579 feet) by its northeast ridge, but they were not able to get higher than 5400 meters, which they reached o...