Mt. Karatash, North Face, New Route. Mt. Karatash is situated in the northeast part of the North Chuyskiy crest in the Aktru Valley of the Altai range. Organized by the sport committee of the town of Biysk, a team led by A. Afanasiev and comprisin...
Alpamayo Norte. In less than 24 hours after leaving Calgary on May 4, Hugh Considine, Peter Fuhrmann, Stephen Herrero and I had all our equipment in Huaraz and were gently acclimatizing in Monterrey. We took advantage of the new road to Palo Seco,...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 28, 1985, Paul Borne (25) was free-solo climbing on Sentinel Rock when he got caught in a thunderstorm, he spent the night on the rock and had to be given self-res...
Bodies on Mount Everest. The accident occurred on October 12. Three Chinese died. Among them was Wang Hong Bao, who had climbed five times to the North Col and had reached over 8000 meters. The day before the accident, Mr. Wang told our Japanese m...
The Cascade Wall, Kola Loca. Zack Smith and I climbed a line, Kola Loca (V 5.10 A2+), on The Cascade Wall of Basaseachic. The route ascends the prominent dihedral system some distance left of the waterfall and the prominent black streak. Climbers ...
Snowpatch Spire, South Face, Bugaboos. The absolute verticality and symmetry of this classic face have always appealed to me when I have been in the Bugaboos. A fine route was established on this face by Hudson, Leemets and Williams in 1966, but a...
Denali National Park Survey. An interesting study was made at Denali National Park by Alan Ewert and Robert Seibert of the National Park Service. Some 360 registered climbers (about a third of this year’s number) were asked to complete a 26-item q...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On 5 June the first member of a party of two rappelled from the “Sugar Bowl” on the west side of the Third Flatiron to “Friday’s Folly Ledge.” The anchor used was a large stable boulder about 6 feet in diameter. It has be...
More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In addition, in 2000 Christoph Mauerhofer and friends from Switzerland climbed two routes. The first was seven pitches to the summit of Bab...
Nuptse Northwest Summit, Northwest Ridge. A French expedition led by Raymond Renaud climbed Nuptse Northwest (7720 meters, 25,328 feet) by the northwest ridge from the south, a new approach to the ridge. They had four high camps. The French gave c...
Trad at the Potrero Chico. The bolt Mecca of northeastern Mexico was profaned by a series of long trad routes this year. The rock’s poor quality made these very bold adventures. Dane Bass and Sue from the Gunks started things off with The Scariest...
Annapurna. After our ascent of Nanga Parbat, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and I headed for Nepal, to climb the normal route on the north side of Annapurna. Well acclimatized from Nanga Parbat, we quickly established Camp I at 5000 meters and m...
Hanuman Tibba. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 feet) was climbed on July 11, 1971 by Nick DeLisa, Susan and Gordon Jarrell, Sara Officer, Pat Ophuls, Chris Pizzo and me with Dhan Khumar Sherpa and Rinzing Ladakhi of the Western Himalayas Mountaineering Inst...
Sierra Nevada de las Lagunas Bravas, exploration and various ascents. During the four campaigns that we undertook in 1998,2000,2002, and 2005, several members of our Iberia Mountain Group visited the Sierra Nevada de las Lagunas Bravas, located no...
Dharamsura, Southwest and Southeast Ridges, Tos Nala, Kulu. Donna McBain, leader, my wife Rachel Cox, Steve Risse and I arrived in Base Camp on the eastern moraine of the Tos Glacier on September 21. After 4½ days of continuous rain and snow, the ...
Aconcagua, possible new route or variation. Various sources, including www.alpinist.com and www.czechclimbing.com, reported that Czechs Josef Lukas and Leopold Sulovsky climbed an alpine-style new route on Aconcagua’s west face. The route is right...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Each weekend in the fall and spring club members head for the rock climbing areas of New Hampshire, Connecticut, and New York, while the club continues to sponsor Friday afternoon beginners’ trips to the nearby Quincy ...
Moskenesoya Island, Helvetestind, Thirst in the Clouds. During the summer Alexey Orudzhev, Alexander Shamakov, and Andrey Varvarkin from Russia made the first ascent of Thirst in the Clouds on the central section of the main face of Helvetestind, ...
Cerro Pular. Ignacio Morlans and Pedro Rosende, with the porter Guillermo Chailes of Peine, ascended Pular (6225 meter or 20,422 feet) on December 8, 1972, finding on the top the remains of an Incan altar. The Chileans claimed this as a first mode...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Germans Michael Dacher, Eduard Bimbacher, Dr. Karl Hub, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Hans Steinbach and I, Swiss Norbert Joos, Austrians Dr. Robert Miller and Andrea Schell, Netherlander Henk N...