Peineta, Capicúa Pastor. In October, Dario Arancibia and I summited Peineta, the fourth Paine Tower, by a new route (Capicúa Pastor, 12 pitches, 500m, 5.9 A1+), making what seems to be the seventh climb of the spire. Our route ascends the west fac...
This is the twenty-sixth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the thirteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained, and the statistical tables ...
Mount Kinabalu, West Plateau, Victoria Peak, Southeast Face. Mount Kinabulu (4095m) in the Kinabalu National Park is the highest peak of Southeast Asia. Low’s Gully, as the name suggests, is a deep gully that runs from the top of Kinabalu for more...
On February 16, Christy McIntire (31) and Victor Lawson (37) were ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, just east of Tuolumne Meadows. They began their day of climbing on Main Wall, a popular area for ice climbers in the eastern Sierra. After toppi...
lorana I and Iorana II, first ascents. Andy Parkin and I made the first ascents of two peaks at the head of Sena Pia in the Cordillera Darwin, after a drop-off from the yacht lorana on March 6. We approached the peaks by crossing glaciers and clim...
Ultima ThuleA short walk through China ’s Kun Lun Shan by Mark Newcomb“Man, this place is vast and empty!” said Kent McBride as he, Hans Johnstone and I topped out on a ridge in the heart of the Kun Lun Shan mountains of northwestern China. We wer...
MARC EMERSON 1954–1970On September 27, 1970, Marc Emerson fell to his death while climbing on Castle Rock near Leavenworth, Washington, when his climbing rope slipped off the carabiner that was attached to his swami seat. Thus at the age of sixtee...
West of Eden. A History of the art and literature of Yosemite. David Robertson. Yosemite Natural History Association and Wilderness Press. 174 pages, 27 color plates, 72 black-and-white plates. $29.95 hardcover; $19.95 paperback.David Robertson ha...
Living Dangerously, by F. Spencer Chapman. 253 pages, with 28 illustrations and 4 maps. New York: Harper & Bros., 1953. Price, $3.00.This book is short, well-written, and full of brief anecdotes of adventure, which can be enjoyed even if read ...
After our ascent of Przhevalskogo, the plan was for Boris Dedeshko and I to traverse over Khan Tengri (6,995m) to the South Inylchek Glacier, where Gennadiy Durov would be waiting for us. From there we would attempt a new line on the north face ...
Mountain Rescue Council, Seattle, Washington. Bolstered by local climbers, many of whom are active members of A.A.C., as well as by hundreds of civic-minded citizens and business firms, MRC continued during 1956 its program of rescue, rescue train...
FRITZ HERMANN ERNST WIESSNER 1900-1988Bom in Dresden on February 26, 1900, Fritz Wiessner was an active climber from his earliest youth. Practising on the pinnacles of the Elbe Sandstein Gebirge, he became one of the best climbers in the area by t...
Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit. On June 15 Doug Chabot, Steve Swenson, and I arrived in base camp on the Choktoi Glacier for an attempt on the unclimbed north ridge of Latok I and other pea...
THE WHOLE DAY had been cold, stormy and very unproductive. Three hundred feet of wallowing had been the sum total of our efforts. Dejected and frustrated, Dave and I rappelled back to our bivouac. This was my third time on the Isis face and I wasn...
Tim Sell and I had just finished climbing Mescalito (VI 5.9 A4) on El Capitan. It was Halloween evening. Although it was getting late, we thought we could make it down the rappels to the bottom of the East Ledges before it got dark.We repacked our...
Pumasillo and Mellizos, Cordillera VilcabambaCarlos BuhlerTHE STEAMING JUNGLES of southeastern Peru seem a strange place to begin an exploration of the northeastern side of the Pumasillo massif. Hidden from all but the most remote mountain trails,...
Labchi Kang Group, first ascents. Duncan Chessell’s Australian-Icelandic commercial expedition, which was successful on Cho Oyu, putting three out of its four members and two Sherpas on the summit over two days in mid May, first acclimatized on on...
New York, Shawangunks (1)—On April 5, Donald Hetz (20) and Jim Walker (20) of the Yale Mountaineering Club, set out to climb the “High Corner”, a Class 5 rock climb in the Shawangunks. Hetz, leading, climbed up about 12 feet to a large ledge and c...
The Minya Konka ClimbTerris MooreOUR Sikong Expedition spent three months in and about the Niarong Range on the Sikong-Szechwan border in southwestern China, before the summit of the main peak was attained. The month of August, 1932, was devoted b...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILUREAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount AberdeenOn August 20, L.S. (40) was guiding K.B. (61) on Mount Aberdeen. They reached the toe of the Aberdeen Glacier at approximately 0700. They moved together on a two-meter short...