Apostle’s Thumb, Northeast Face. Last summer a small but well-organized Austrian party climbed the Northeast Face of the Apostelens Tommelfinger (The Apostle’s Thumb) above Lindenows Fjord in South Greenland. The ascent of the 1400-meter face was ...

FALLING ROCK DISLODGED BY CLIMBERWashington, Mount Shuksan, Fisher ChimneysOn June 20, 1992, Bill Peterson (33) was descending the Fisher Chimneys and was about 200 feet above the base of the summit block when he was struck by a large rock dislodg...

JB (44) was bitten by a Copperhead snake on May 27 at the Bird’s Nest area of Great Falls Park. I (Luciano Lima) was climbing at Bird’s Nest in a group separate from the bitten climber. I had just scrambled to the top of the cliff to break down ...

Tengkangpoche (6,487m), first authorized ascent; northwest face, Checkmate. The most significant pre-monsoon climb in Nepal was Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck’s ascent of the northwest face of Tengkangpoche. Incidentally, it was also the first o...

Appointment in Tibet, by W. H. Murray. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1959. 284 pages; 6 maps. Price $3.95. Published in English edition as Five Frontiers; J. M. Dent, 1957.Most of us know W. H. Murray as an outstanding rock-climber and Himalayan ...

Whitney Portal, El Segundo Buttress, Brainstorm. In May Bob Harrington and I ascended this route about 150 feet right of the Beckey-Heath route. Climb a steep wall past a fixed pin, then make a long traverse left around a corner and past a bolt to...

Finger Rock, Boldfinger. A long time ago (1970s?), Fred Beckey and crew climbed a route on the south side of Finger Rock, which is a short drive/hike from the Wishon Reservoir. On the east face of Finger Rock are a couple distinct features. There ...

HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, WEATHER, LATE START, FAILED TO TURN BACKNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn February 26,1994, Monroe Couper (40) and Erik Lattey (28) left the Harvard Cabin in Huntington Ravine to climb Pinnacle Gully. The...

Jaonli. Jaonli (21,760 feet) was unsuccessfully attempted in 1965 by an Indian expedition from the Doon School led by Hari Dang. In June another group from the Doon School, also led by Mr. Dang, made the first ascent. On June 6 and 7 two boys, a s...

Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, northwest side, attempt. Shaluli Shan, Jarjinjabo Massif: Spank Peak (ca 17,500'), south face, attempt; Jarjinjabo, south ridge. Andy Bourne, Misty Tyler, Anitra Accetturo, and I traveled to western Sichuan Province, Chi...

North Guard, East Face, 1981. North Guard, near better-known Mount Brewer, has a provoking, craggy shape. There is a short but quite steep east face that looms above many acres of glacier-polished rock slab. In June 1981 Rick Nolting and I made th...

SLIP ON SNOW, COLLAPSED CORNICE Alaska, Mt. HunterMasamitsu Urayama (29) and Yutaka Shinohara (40) registered through Jack Kim to climb the north face of Mount Hunter. Their attempt on the Lowe/Kennedy route was stopped by a large crevasse one-thi...

Gimmigela, First Ascent from Nepal. An expedition of 11 Japanese, five Nepalese police, and 12 Sherpas and other Nepalese load carriers, was on Gimmigela (7350 meters), immediately north of Kangchenjunga on the border with the Indian state of Sikk...

Caullaraju Group, Cordillera Blanca. In July, I finished my systematic reconnaissance of this group which I had begun in 1960 and 1961, completing the ascents of the most important peak which had remained unclimbed and which included the highest o...

Winter Ascents. The first winter ascents of Monte Cristo Peak and Mount Silver Star were made in March by Mike Borghoff and me on two separate treks. Touring skis were used on long approach routes to both peaks; crampons were needed on hard wind-p...

First Ascent of Mt. Willerval. Mt. Willerval (10,400 ft.) is situated on the S. side of the Alexandra River Valley between Amery and Ridges Creeks, about seven miles W. of the Banff-Jasper Highway. The peak was climbed on 12 July 1951 by A. E. Cre...

Mount Sacagawea, Winter Ascent. A two-week expedition over the 1969 Christmas season, which included Bruce Barrus, co-leader, Scott Bradley, Stein Frick, Roger Howe, Mike Parker and me succeeded in making in the first winter ascent of Mount Sacaga...

FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED, FALL ON SNOW, NO BELAY OR PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount LefroyOn August 18, four climbers were ascending the 45-degree snow-and-ice route on Mount Lefroy. They were traveling as two independent rope teams, m...

Paniri, Indian Ascents. Anthropologist J. Rinehard and Father J. Sarracino ascended in 1980 the snowy volcano Paniri (5940 meters, 19,488 feet), located northeast of the town of San Pedro de Atacama and reported the following findings, which attes...

Cerro Lípez and Cerro Nuevo Mundo. Aldo Franceschini, Romeo De Stefani, Dr. Ostilio Campese and I as leader arrived in La Paz on August 5 in the midst of the disputed presidential election. This persuaded us to hurry. We hired a Toyota and driver ...