Juan Tarditti and I arrived in Cochamo, Chile, mid-February 2010 after a long rainy season. The trails that approach the Refugio Cochamó in La Junta had become rivers; people and horses were engulfed in knee-deep mud. We arrived to stories of ra...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT,DISTRACTIONMassachusetts, Chapel LedgesOn May 16, 1987, James Stow (73), a veteran Westfield climber, fell 15 meters to his death as he was preparing a rappel for a teenage church group. He was tying...
Cordillera Meliquina, Cerro Meliquina (2,602m), northeast face. Our group of eight NOLS instructors left Coihaique on December 24, reached Rio Leones, then turned west and traveled up the Leones Valley toward Lago Leones, as far as Rio Meliquina...
LYMAN SPITZER1914 - 1997On March 31, we lost a distinguished astrophysicist and an accomplished mountaineer when Lyman Spitzer died suddenly at his home in Princeton, New Jersey.Lyman was born in Toledo, Ohio, and obtained a Bachelor’s degree in p...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church BowlOn August 31, Tomoki Shibata (22) led Church Bowl Tree, a 5.10b crack, belayed by Hiroki Kishi. Shibata left his helmet at the base of the climb because the rout...
The International Spantik ExpeditionDifferent styles on the Golden PillarMikhail Davy, Russia, and Marko Prezelj, SloveniaPrezelj article translated by Ana PercicMarko:At the end of the summer of 1987, Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders started their...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, look back on 1972 as another year of high level activity in its climbing, hiking, and skiing activities. Each year the membership grows: from 1088 in 1960 to 2453 in 1972. Thanks in part to the increased a...
Peineta, Capicúa Pastor. In October, Dario Arancibia and I summited Peineta, the fourth Paine Tower, by a new route (Capicúa Pastor, 12 pitches, 500m, 5.9 A1+), making what seems to be the seventh climb of the spire. Our route ascends the west fac...
This is the twenty-sixth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the thirteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained, and the statistical tables ...
Mount Kinabalu, West Plateau, Victoria Peak, Southeast Face. Mount Kinabulu (4095m) in the Kinabalu National Park is the highest peak of Southeast Asia. Low’s Gully, as the name suggests, is a deep gully that runs from the top of Kinabalu for more...
On February 16, Christy McIntire (31) and Victor Lawson (37) were ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, just east of Tuolumne Meadows. They began their day of climbing on Main Wall, a popular area for ice climbers in the eastern Sierra. After toppi...
lorana I and Iorana II, first ascents. Andy Parkin and I made the first ascents of two peaks at the head of Sena Pia in the Cordillera Darwin, after a drop-off from the yacht lorana on March 6. We approached the peaks by crossing glaciers and clim...
Ultima ThuleA short walk through China ’s Kun Lun Shan by Mark Newcomb“Man, this place is vast and empty!” said Kent McBride as he, Hans Johnstone and I topped out on a ridge in the heart of the Kun Lun Shan mountains of northwestern China. We wer...
MARC EMERSON 1954–1970On September 27, 1970, Marc Emerson fell to his death while climbing on Castle Rock near Leavenworth, Washington, when his climbing rope slipped off the carabiner that was attached to his swami seat. Thus at the age of sixtee...
West of Eden. A History of the art and literature of Yosemite. David Robertson. Yosemite Natural History Association and Wilderness Press. 174 pages, 27 color plates, 72 black-and-white plates. $29.95 hardcover; $19.95 paperback.David Robertson ha...
Living Dangerously, by F. Spencer Chapman. 253 pages, with 28 illustrations and 4 maps. New York: Harper & Bros., 1953. Price, $3.00.This book is short, well-written, and full of brief anecdotes of adventure, which can be enjoyed even if read ...
After our ascent of Przhevalskogo, the plan was for Boris Dedeshko and I to traverse over Khan Tengri (6,995m) to the South Inylchek Glacier, where Gennadiy Durov would be waiting for us. From there we would attempt a new line on the north face ...
Mountain Rescue Council, Seattle, Washington. Bolstered by local climbers, many of whom are active members of A.A.C., as well as by hundreds of civic-minded citizens and business firms, MRC continued during 1956 its program of rescue, rescue train...
FRITZ HERMANN ERNST WIESSNER 1900-1988Bom in Dresden on February 26, 1900, Fritz Wiessner was an active climber from his earliest youth. Practising on the pinnacles of the Elbe Sandstein Gebirge, he became one of the best climbers in the area by t...
Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit. On June 15 Doug Chabot, Steve Swenson, and I arrived in base camp on the Choktoi Glacier for an attempt on the unclimbed north ridge of Latok I and other pea...