North Guard, East Face, 1981. North Guard, near better-known Mount Brewer, has a provoking, craggy shape. There is a short but quite steep east face that looms above many acres of glacier-polished rock slab. In June 1981 Rick Nolting and I made th...
SLIP ON SNOW, COLLAPSED CORNICE Alaska, Mt. HunterMasamitsu Urayama (29) and Yutaka Shinohara (40) registered through Jack Kim to climb the north face of Mount Hunter. Their attempt on the Lowe/Kennedy route was stopped by a large crevasse one-thi...
Gimmigela, First Ascent from Nepal. An expedition of 11 Japanese, five Nepalese police, and 12 Sherpas and other Nepalese load carriers, was on Gimmigela (7350 meters), immediately north of Kangchenjunga on the border with the Indian state of Sikk...
Caullaraju Group, Cordillera Blanca. In July, I finished my systematic reconnaissance of this group which I had begun in 1960 and 1961, completing the ascents of the most important peak which had remained unclimbed and which included the highest o...
Winter Ascents. The first winter ascents of Monte Cristo Peak and Mount Silver Star were made in March by Mike Borghoff and me on two separate treks. Touring skis were used on long approach routes to both peaks; crampons were needed on hard wind-p...
First Ascent of Mt. Willerval. Mt. Willerval (10,400 ft.) is situated on the S. side of the Alexandra River Valley between Amery and Ridges Creeks, about seven miles W. of the Banff-Jasper Highway. The peak was climbed on 12 July 1951 by A. E. Cre...
Mount Sacagawea, Winter Ascent. A two-week expedition over the 1969 Christmas season, which included Bruce Barrus, co-leader, Scott Bradley, Stein Frick, Roger Howe, Mike Parker and me succeeded in making in the first winter ascent of Mount Sacaga...
FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED, FALL ON SNOW, NO BELAY OR PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount LefroyOn August 18, four climbers were ascending the 45-degree snow-and-ice route on Mount Lefroy. They were traveling as two independent rope teams, m...
Paniri, Indian Ascents. Anthropologist J. Rinehard and Father J. Sarracino ascended in 1980 the snowy volcano Paniri (5940 meters, 19,488 feet), located northeast of the town of San Pedro de Atacama and reported the following findings, which attes...
Cerro Lípez and Cerro Nuevo Mundo. Aldo Franceschini, Romeo De Stefani, Dr. Ostilio Campese and I as leader arrived in La Paz on August 5 in the midst of the disputed presidential election. This persuaded us to hurry. We hired a Toyota and driver ...
Mt. McKinley, Father and Sons Wall, Extraterrestrial Brothers; Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress; Mini-Moonflower, Kiss Me Where the Sun Don’t Shine. British climbers Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell established Extraterrestrial Brothers (Alaskan Grade 5...
Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge. While cragging on the west side of Little Slide Canyon, one naturally admires the Incredible Hulk, across the drainage. Less obvious is Mt. Walt, lurking above and behind the Hulk. A low-angle but sharp ridge descends fr...
Nilgiri East, Annapurna Himal. The Spaniards, Jorge Matas and Manuel Martin made the first ascent in November of Nilgiri East (22,146 feet). Alfredo Poveda was also a member of the group.JOSÉ PAYTUBI, Club Excursionista de Gracia, Barcelona
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn August 11, 1981, about 6:00 p.m., Travis Plunkett (22) slipped on a snow patch in the south fork of Garnet Canyon while descending from the Middle Teton. Plunkett slid about 100 feet and hit som...
FALL ON SNOW-UNROPED AT SUMMIT, WINDOregon, Mount HoodOn June 4, Diana Kornet (29) slipped as she was looking over the northeast side of Mount Hood. She fell about 2,500 feet to her death. She and six friends had reached the summit about 7 a.m. Sh...
Noshaq Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Sheldon Moomaw, leader, Bernhard Ehmann, Mark Goebel, Jack Lewis, Mary Omberg, Sam Roberts and Kesler Teter. Since the recent change in government, all land arrangements had to be made through Afghan Tou...
Great Trango Tower, New Route. It was reported that the Korean team of Kim Hyung-Jin, Lee Sang-Co, Choi Seoung-Chul and Shin Yun-Jeong climbed the Great Trango Tower on its east face, adding a five-pitch variation to an established route. Further ...
Peaks Southwest of Mount Hallam. From August 3 to 23 A.C. Fabergé, Talbot Bielefeldt and I revisited the extensively glaciated area a few miles east of Mud Lake and southwest of Hallam. We scaled five prominent peaks, four of which had not previou...
Petermanns Bjerg, Fourth Ascent, Kejser Franz Josephs Fjord, 1985. Iaian Smart, P. Sellars, P. Todd, R. Zeyen and I flew to Mestersvig on July 26, 1985, where we picked up two inflatable boats belonging to Wally Herbert, left from his circum-Green...
Bridge Mountain Annex, West Face, Zion National Park. North of and adjoining Bridge Mountain is a smaller, 1000-foot shoulder, the Annex. Mike Wies and Andy Carson climbed a route to the right of the center of its west face in January 1973. After ...