First Ascent of Mount Queen Mary. Seattle Mountaineers St. Elias Range Expedition. A party of Seattle Mountaineers explored a previously unvisited region of the St. Elias Range between June 17 and July 3. Four different groups attempted climbs in ...
Cerro Torre Attempt. I was four weeks on the Cerro Torre in February, attempting the Maestri bolt-ladder route on the southeast buttress, a beautiful route. I got up to within 650 feet of the top but had to give up because of bad weather. It is we...
Qala Panja, Wakhan. A French expedition entered the Qala Panja valley, previously untouched by climbers. The glaciers descend to 10,000 feet from two glacial plateaus at 16,500 feet. The ice is particularly steep and broken for the first 1500 feet...
Oregon Section. Bob McGown, Section chair, was on four continents this year, so Richard Bence took over some of his duties. Bence also maintains the Oregon Section and Madrone Wall Web sites, www.ors.alpine.org and www.savemadrone.org. The Oregon ...
This high-adventure route climbs through the site of the seasonal flash waterfall on the right side of the wall. Ryan Frost, Joe French, and I stole a few precious days (October 9–13) from our busy schedules to race up the wall. The climbing w...
False or Doubtful Claims of Ascents in 1964. The accounts of three expeditions reported in the American Alpine Journal, 1965, 14:2 need further clarification in these pages. Attention was called to these details by Alpinismus of April, 1965. 1. On...
Mukar Beh, Hanuman Tibba, Kulu. On October 14 Corradino Rabbi, leader, Bruno China, assistant leader, Alberto Re, the Ladakhi porter Wangyal and I made the third ascent of Mukar Beh (19,910 feet). We climbed the peak with three high camps, startin...
Broad Peak, South-Southeast Ridge, Attempts. It was reported that two teams attempted Broad Peak by its south-southeast ridge this year. Spanish brothers Alex and Félix Iñurrategi made it as far as ca.7200 meters to the start of a difficult rocky ...
Qioqe Peninsula und Upernivik Island, West Greenland. An expedition of the Italian Alpine Club, Gavirate Section, was led by Dante Caraffini and composed of the Englishman Anthony, Lord Shaftesbury, the Swiss Ami Giroud, Michel Darbellay and André...
Yana Raju de Cotush and Other Peaks. Our party set out to make five possible first ascents in the Quebrada Shahuanca by going up and over the Wamashpunta, as a short cut. The first ascent of Yana Raju de Cotush (5185 meters, 17,010 feet) was made ...
Patichoquichambi, Cordillera Apolobamba. This 16,392-foot peak was the highest point I reached during a four-day circuit of the Ananea massif. On August 4 I climbed it by its north rock face from the highest pass on the Untuca-Sina Pass trail. My ...
Cerro Morro Overo, Central Andes. A number of medium-sized but bold rock peaks near the Mendoza frontier with Chile remain unclimbed, in part because of poor rock. In late December, I entered several relatively unexplored valleys north and south o...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkAt 1630 on July 27, 1985, I (Roy Curet, 25) attempted to glissade a steep snowfield below Andrew’s Tarn. I quickly realized that the speed ...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 12 March Ken Salzberg (21) and two companions, after climbing the first pitch of “After 6” on Horse Manure Buttress, decided to rappel down in order to try an interesting crack just to the right (east) of the...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, ATTEMPTING TO ASCEND TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinleyA Ranier Mountaineering, Inc., group began a guided ascent of the West Buttress on July 1, 1987. On July 7, the group moved from the 3330-meter level to 3850 meters— bel...
Ice Climbing above Nabesna, Wrangell Mountains. On April 2, Harry Hunt and I drove to the town of Nabesna, north of the Wrangell Mountains, to climb several frozen waterfalls we had scouted in January when we had snowshoed up canyons to check out ...
The Cordillera Oriental has been explored during the last decade by Tony Barton and various partners. It was reading about his new route in 2010 with Tom Chamberlain on the south face of Huaguruncho (Huagaruncho, 5,723m, AAJ 2011) that sparked ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt and Tragedy. An Austrian expedition led by Edi Lindenthaler and composed of Josef Inhöger, Erich Unterberger, Hans and Hansjörg Linderthaler, Franz Müllender, Hans Gapp and Martin Homegger had hoped to climb the northwest ridge ...
Mount Everest, Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition. The 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition was conducted to search for evidence of the 1924 British attempt on Mt. Everest and to recover information about the high point reached by Georg...
Mamostong Kangri. The expedition which I led was composed of 25 members of the Ladakh Scouts. No additional high-altitude porters were used. We left Leh, traveled via Diskit, Sasmoma, Saser La, Shyok River, Thangman (Kichik Kumdan) Glacier to Mamo...