Aguas Calientes, Second Ascent. Brian Baker and I formed the 1991 British Andean Volcanoes Expedition, which lasted from July 28 to September 7. We climbed Licancabur (5916 meters, 19,411 feet) on August 5, Aguas Calientes (5924 meters, 19,435 fee...
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new lines of difficulty MD+. The north face of Suiricocha (5,495m) had nine pitches, finishing with a steep (80°+) pitch of ice and loose rock. The we...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. We were Dr. Dave Bong, Gary Le Moine, Richard Soaper and Ethan Van Matre, lead team, and Jonell Geller, Bill and Dana Isherwood and I, support team. We reached the 17,400-foot Gasherbrum Base Camp at the conflue...
Northern Selkirks. August 1955 saw the Northern Selkirks under siege by a group of eight climbers, including Graham Matthews, David Michael, and Richard Irvin. The initial phase was the air drop of supplies at Tangier Summit and on the Sir Sandfor...
Fisher Towers, 1992-3. The major event of the Fisher Towers was Rob Slater’s repeat of all the towers listed in Eric Bjørnstad’s Desert Rock, including all the “Mystery Towers” and River Tower, a grand total of 23 formations— nothing short of outs...
LOOSE ROCK, UNROPED FALLAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grassi Lakes areaWhile hiking with friends near Canmore on September 22, 1990, Mark undertook some solo climbing on the rock faces next to the second lake. He was about three meters off the ground ...
HAPE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 11, a guided client (52) first started experiencing a productive cough and wet lung sounds at 11,200 feet. After a carry from 11,200 feet to 13,500 feet, he felt a bit better an...
Kunyang Chhish Tragedy. A Japanese expedition led by Seichi Wada tried unsuccessfully to climb Kunyang Chhish. On July 19 Takumi Onuma fell and was killed after his rope was cut by a falling block of ice. Further details are not available.
Langsisa Ri in Winter. A Korean expedition led by Lee Dong-Myung made the sixth ascent of Langsisa Ri, climbing its south face. On December 14, Kim Bo-Youl and Dawa Tshering Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Valley, first ascent of The Flame, new route on Shipton Spire. In August Josh Wharton and I, hailing from Colorado, put up two new routes in the Trango Valley of Pakistan. Following a 40-day stint of rain, broken up by two clear days to rel...
Tilitso, Post-Monsoon. There were two successful expeditions to Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) in the post-monsoon season. Fourteen Swiss and a Pole from the University of Bern, led by Karl Kobler, climbed the northeast spur to the north ridge...
Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Bruce Gibbs, Ed Cooper, and Ron Priebe climbed the last clean route left on this rock early in the spring. This route, called the “Century,” followed a long rib just to the right of the “Sabre” chimney, and was primar...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The A.M.C. finished a typically Standard year in 1985. We taught more than 60 people beginning rock climbing during our biennial basic climbing school near Phoenix. We also taught a small advanced rock-climbing school ...
Peak 29, West Face Attempt. The Yokohama Mountaineering Association Expedition was led by Fumia Tamaka and included nineteen, one an American and one a woman. They attempted the west face of Peak 29 (24,652 feet). They reached 19,000 feet on April...
Balconies, Shake and Bake, Pinnacles National Monument. In May Chris Vandiver and I discovered perhaps the most sustained and spectacular free route at Pinnacles. We climbed the Balconies’ east face by way of a 350-foot indented, black water strea...
Mount Logan, East Ridge. By May 12 Brian Cabe, Steve Mock, Ed Rosette, Ed Sondeno, Chuck Swenson, and Gigi Swenson were all assembled at Base Camp at 2380 meters between the Hubsew and East ridges. Our original goal was to make the third ascent of...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Little MatterhornOn August 16, 1992, at 1000, Jon M. Hofstra (23) fell about 1000 feet while descending unroped from the summit of the Little Matterhorn do...
Everest Attempt. On August 20, Jan Harris and I arrived at the 5600-meter-high Rongbuk Glacier Base Camp. On the 24th, we placed Advance Base at 6400 meters at the foot of the North Col. We established Camps I and II on the North Col and north rid...
Peaks in the Chogolungma Group. It seems incredible that neither of our expeditions to Malubiting Central in 1974 or 1975 really got to the mountain. This year we were thwarted by frightful air service from Rawalpindi to Skardu and incorrect word ...
Second Ascent of Nanda Kot. An all-Naval expedition, consisting of Instr. Lt. M. S. Kohli, leader, Surgeon Lt. Y. C. Sharma, A. S. Pabreja, K. P. Sharma, and D. B. Ambastha, left Delhi on April 27. Sirdar Ang Tsering and Da Temba accompanied the p...