Shuangqiao Valley, Daogou West, first ascent. In late September Vaughn Thomas (Australia) and I made the first ascent of the granite peak of Daogou West (5,422m), via the south face. The weather was unstable during most of our stay, with the best ...
Lake Ann Buttress. One of the principal points of Shuksan Arm running between Austin Pass and Mount Shuksan, is the peak just northeast of Lake Ann. Its south face is a 1000-foot rock wall that offers some dubious route problems and has apparently...
Aconcagua. It was reported some months ago that an Argentine military mission had set up three huts on Aconcagua, at 4200 m., 6400 m. and 6700 m. The last, which is the highest in the world, is named for General Perón. In February 1952 it was repo...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AlbertaTobin Sorenson (25) was attempting to climb the north face of Mount Alberta alone. He started on October 3, 1980; his last diary entry was 9:15 p.m. on October 4....
SLIP ON MIXED TERRAIN, RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATIONBritish Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount DioneOn September 24, two experienced climbers were descending Mount Dione. They had completed the second ascent of the West Face, and spent the night...
Cerro Cubo, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our expedition was composed of T. Kadota, Y. Onishi and me. We chartered a jeep at Punta Arenas and drove to Estancia Victorina on Lago Paine on January 14. After a week we made Base Camp at the tongue of th...
Sajama, Scientific Expedition. A scientific expedition to Sajama (6542m) saw a team of scientists drill two 120-meter by four-inch core samples in the summit to check out weather patterns during the last 30,000 years. The initial idea was to float...
First Ascent of Mount Queen Mary. Seattle Mountaineers St. Elias Range Expedition. A party of Seattle Mountaineers explored a previously unvisited region of the St. Elias Range between June 17 and July 3. Four different groups attempted climbs in ...
Cerro Torre Attempt. I was four weeks on the Cerro Torre in February, attempting the Maestri bolt-ladder route on the southeast buttress, a beautiful route. I got up to within 650 feet of the top but had to give up because of bad weather. It is we...
Qala Panja, Wakhan. A French expedition entered the Qala Panja valley, previously untouched by climbers. The glaciers descend to 10,000 feet from two glacial plateaus at 16,500 feet. The ice is particularly steep and broken for the first 1500 feet...
Oregon Section. Bob McGown, Section chair, was on four continents this year, so Richard Bence took over some of his duties. Bence also maintains the Oregon Section and Madrone Wall Web sites, www.ors.alpine.org and www.savemadrone.org. The Oregon ...
This high-adventure route climbs through the site of the seasonal flash waterfall on the right side of the wall. Ryan Frost, Joe French, and I stole a few precious days (October 9–13) from our busy schedules to race up the wall. The climbing w...
False or Doubtful Claims of Ascents in 1964. The accounts of three expeditions reported in the American Alpine Journal, 1965, 14:2 need further clarification in these pages. Attention was called to these details by Alpinismus of April, 1965. 1. On...
Mukar Beh, Hanuman Tibba, Kulu. On October 14 Corradino Rabbi, leader, Bruno China, assistant leader, Alberto Re, the Ladakhi porter Wangyal and I made the third ascent of Mukar Beh (19,910 feet). We climbed the peak with three high camps, startin...
Broad Peak, South-Southeast Ridge, Attempts. It was reported that two teams attempted Broad Peak by its south-southeast ridge this year. Spanish brothers Alex and Félix Iñurrategi made it as far as ca.7200 meters to the start of a difficult rocky ...
Qioqe Peninsula und Upernivik Island, West Greenland. An expedition of the Italian Alpine Club, Gavirate Section, was led by Dante Caraffini and composed of the Englishman Anthony, Lord Shaftesbury, the Swiss Ami Giroud, Michel Darbellay and André...
Yana Raju de Cotush and Other Peaks. Our party set out to make five possible first ascents in the Quebrada Shahuanca by going up and over the Wamashpunta, as a short cut. The first ascent of Yana Raju de Cotush (5185 meters, 17,010 feet) was made ...
Patichoquichambi, Cordillera Apolobamba. This 16,392-foot peak was the highest point I reached during a four-day circuit of the Ananea massif. On August 4 I climbed it by its north rock face from the highest pass on the Untuca-Sina Pass trail. My ...
Cerro Morro Overo, Central Andes. A number of medium-sized but bold rock peaks near the Mendoza frontier with Chile remain unclimbed, in part because of poor rock. In late December, I entered several relatively unexplored valleys north and south o...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkAt 1630 on July 27, 1985, I (Roy Curet, 25) attempted to glissade a steep snowfield below Andrew’s Tarn. I quickly realized that the speed ...