Asia, Pakistan, False or Doubtful Claims of Ascents in 1964

Publication Year: 1966.

False or Doubtful Claims of Ascents in 1964. The accounts of three expeditions reported in the American Alpine Journal, 1965, 14:2 need further clarification in these pages. Attention was called to these details by Alpinismus of April, 1965. 1. On page 463 of last year’s Journal, Fritz Stammberger was given credit for having made an ascent of Cho Oyu. It appears, however, that his "summit” pictures were not made on the top of the mountain, and although this does not definitely disprove his claim of ascent, it casts serious doubts on his veracity. 2. On page 476 we published a short account of the ascent of "Turpin Peak (c. 19,000 feet).” It appears that the expedition leader, Philip Rosenthal, was at least guilty of careless research. The region was mapped by Dr. Richard Finsterwalder of the German 1934 Nanga Parbat Expedition; in the course of the mapping, on June 26, 1934 Walter Raechl traversed the peak climbed by Rosenthal and called by him "Turpin Peak.” The 1934 German map, presumably correct, gives the mountain an altitude of only 5200 meters (17,061 feet). 3. On page 476 we reported that Germans had attempted unsuccessfully to climb K6. This Alpinismus denied, stating that the Berlin party had incorrectly identified the peak and that they had been on K7. When John Noxon and the Editor of the A.A.J. saw the photographs of the supposed "K7,” they could not agree with Alpinismus. It has finally been established and has been published in Alpinismus of November, 1965 that the Germans attacked P 23,100 feet, which appears in John Noxon’s map (A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, p. 122) northeast of K6.