Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Fluted Peak, Karcha Nala

Fluted Peak, Karcha Nala. K.V. Mohan led an expedition to this peak (6159 meters, 20,207 feet). Mohan reached the summit on August 20 with porters Moti and Vijay.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal


In Memoriam AAJ
Michael Koshuta, 1956-1990

MICHAEL KOSHUTA1956-1990On this fall morning in Colorado, I get up to light the wood stove and fix a cup of coffee. I sit down to a view out the window of hillsides sprinkled with the colors of autumn, the pines and the newly whitened peaks. The h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Howser Spire: New Routes

Howser Spire: New Routes. On 23 July 1946 F. D. Ayres, J. C. Oberlin, Edward Little and D. M. Woods climbed Howser Spire (10,950 ft.) by a new route. From a bivouac at the foot of the W. ridge of Pigeon Spire, they left at 5.30 a. m.; and they mad...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys

El Capitan, Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys. In August, Boulos Ayad, Tyson Hausdoerffer and I managed to establish an 11-pitch new route on the southeast face of El Capitan that we named Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.10 PDH). The route joins Atlan...


Feature Article AAJ
Beware the Future

Beware the FutureRobert HoranIN THE EARLY 1980s, Boulder, Colorado area standards for free climbing began to rise. Now, well into the 80s, the standards have sky-rocketed. Once again, Boulder’s free climbers are among the country’s leaders of diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Almirante Nieto, West Face

Cerro Almirante Nieto, West Face. Ben Webster (Canada) and Sergio Echevarría (Chile) climbed the west face of Cerro Almirante Nieto in November, 1996, in six hours without a rope. It was a hard hike on snow and rocks. They spent four days in base ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Henry Ives Baldwin, 1896-1992

HENRY IVES BALDWIN1896-1992Henry Baldwin was bom in Saranac Lake, N.Y. and brought up in the Adirondacks, where he was one of the founders of the Adirondack Mountain Club. He was one of the early enthusiastic skiers, learning and perfecting the te...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Ni Hen Piao Liang Asia, China, Qonglai Shan — Siguniang National Park

Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and laughing. Jean-Baptiste Assier’s black belt in judo allowed us to enter nightclubs without worrying about our safet...

| Published 2011 | Author Dimitri Messina


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents

Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents. From June 20-July 10, Bill Gamble, Mark Davis, Chris Giles, and I established three new routes in the Little Switzerland area. Eat the Queen (V 5.9 A2+) on the Throne ascends a line through the prominent ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment — Hiking Boots — and No Hard Hat, West Virginia, River Rocks

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT— HIKING BOOTS—AND NO HARD HATWest Virginia, River RocksOn April 20, Mark Williamson (25) had finished a day of climbing and had already changed from his climbing shoes to his hiking boots. He re...


Feature Article AAJ
Sir George Everest's 200th Birthday

Sir George Everest’s 200th BirthdayAudrey Salkeld, The Alpine ClubSIR GEORGE EVEREST was bom two hundred years ago. It is well known that in 1849 reports reached Everest’s successor as Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Habuqung Shan, Dobzebo, First Ascent, Via Southwest Ridge

Dobzebo, first ascent, via southwest ridge. When our team of four, comprising Alpine Club members Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott, Martin Scott, and Bill Thurston, were searching for new climbing opportunities, we looked no farther than Tibet. Requir...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbing and Exploration in the Northern Purcells

Climbing and Exploration in the Northern PurcellsROBERT C. WEST, JR. and PETER ROBINSON Spillimacheen and Carbonate RangesIn the summer of 1952, looking southeast into the Purcells from Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks, we noticed some attractive-lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, California, Mount Shasta, Sargents Ridge

FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Sargents RidgeThe Mount Shasta area had a late winter start with very dry conditions on the mountain. The ridge routes, which are popula...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Peak 13,134', Ski Line

Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ago, the north face of Peak 13,134' in the northern San Juans. The face can be clearly seen from Dallas Divide, and I had made several atte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh-Kashmir, Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali

Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali. From February 27 to March 30 Norwegians Odd Eliassen and Erik Boehlke and I made a 600-km journey on skis from Srinagar in Kashmir through Ladakh, Zanskar and Lahoul to Manali. Our commitment...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents

Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents. This range, known locally as the Cordillera Pariacacca, is located south of the mining town of La Oroya. Names for the range, such as Cordillera Central and Nevados de Cochas, that have been applied by...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. Another active year, 1994 saw 4056 individuals participating in the club’s instructional courses and climbing outings. Many of the instructional courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit. Membership of approxim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. The year 2002 was one of remarkable activity in the Coast Mountains, both in southwest British Columbia near Vancouver and in remoter areas. Most new-route activity in the “greater” Coast Mountains, as always...


Feature Article AAJ
Foraker's Southwest Ridge

THE massive southwest ridge of Foraker is a labyrinthine collection of ribs and buttresses which, with meandering nonchalance, rises out of several different glaciers headed in several different directions. The point of confluence for these subo...

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| Published 1977 | Author Erik LeRoy