FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS-NOT TO CLIMB THAT DAYCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Low Profile DomeAt 1630 on September 8, Ranger Mike Yost received a call at the Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station regarding an injured climber at the ...
As always, we are very grateful to the Editorial Board and to those friends without whose unstinting assistance this section could not have been compiled. It is impossible to mention all who have helped who are not members of the Editorial Board. ...
This is the forty-third issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twelfth that has been done jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: First, an apology. In last year’s report of a fatal accident o...
SUDDEN DEATH ON SUMMITAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis Alpine Ascents International climbing expedition flew into the base camp of Mount McKinley on June 20th with two guides and six clients, one of whom was James P. Nasti (51), a first t...
Mt. McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs, by Terris Moore. College, Alaska. University of Alaska Press, 1967. Distributed by University of Washington Press. 202 pages, many photographs, 8 maps. Price $6.95. Mount McKinley is superlative in several respect...
Koh-e-Urgund Attempt, Koh-e-Awal. Unfortunately our undertaking turned out sadly. Two of my companions, Werner Bergmann and Horst Kaltow disappeared on August 30 near Camp II on Koh-e-Urgund, presumably buried in an avalanche. Before that, I had f...
Valle Cochamó, overview and various ascents. At pitch 13 on the white granite of the 1,000m Trinidad wall, Argentine Esequiel Manoni and I were interrupted by a condor’s 2m wing span slicing the air, as the curious bird swept by our position. Belo...
Putha Hiunchuli. Our expedition consisted of Jung Sang-Kun, Yoon Dae-Hyo, Kim Kyung-Nam, Kang Young-Ki and me as leader. We approached via Nodanda and Beni and got to Base Camp at 4200 meters on March 20. We climbed the south ridge and south face....
The Seven Summits. Americans have been in the lead in climbing the highest points of all the continents. Now, Dolly Lefever has been added to the list as the third woman and the first American woman. In the past, there has been a question as to wh...
The Murchisons RevisitedGeorgia EngelhardIN 1938, when Eaton Cromwell, the writer and Edward Feuz made the first ascent of the S. and N. Murchison Towers,1 we viewed with interest the three other virgin peaks of the district, and decided that at s...
Cerro Largo, first ascent, northeast ridge; Cerros Hyades, Turret, and Escuela, first winter ascents. After making the first winter crossing of the Northern Patagonia Ice Cap in July 2006, we wanted to climb mountains on the northeast side of the ...
Chon-Turasu Valley, attempt on Koroleva and ascent of Molodezhnyi. In August I climbed with Graham Holden in the Chon-Turasu Valley of the Western Kokshaal-Too. We reached our 3300m base camp by Ural Truck in a problem- free three-day drive from B...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1971 was a successful yet heartbreaking one for the club. Disaster struck three of our most active members: Dr. Grace Hoeman, Hans Van der Laan, and Buddy Jai- dinger. Grace and Hans were killed on April 12 ...
Mizhirgi (5,025m), north ridge, winter ascent. In early January 2009 Sasha Gukov, Sergey Kondrashkin, Alik Izotov, and Viktor Koval made the first winter ascent of the north ridge of Mizhirgi East Peak (4,927m). Mizhirgi is an eastern subsidiary s...
Pilgrimage on BhagirathiAt the mercy of the mountain godsby Yuri Koshelenko, Russiatranslated by Natasha Lagovskaya and Liana DarenskayaOn October 14, 1998, at high noon, just 20 steps away from the summit, Igor Potankin and I were peacefully enjo...
It was my sixth visit to the Karavshin. Our group of five arrived when the season was in full swing. The meadows were full of climbers from Zelenograd, Moscow, and Tomsk. Coming in with us was a group of 20 from St Petersburg. Taras Tsushko and I ...
Kamet West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was a joint effort of the Royal Air Force and the Indian Air Force. British airmen were Robert Appleyard, G. Stamp, Gordon Turner, Brian Kirkpatrick, Philip Smithson, Colin Scott, Martin Owens, Paul Horth, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, PROBABLE UNIQUE WEATHER EVENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Lower ExumOn July 19, George Gardner (58) fell to his death while solo climbing the Lower Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Gardner and other ...
Shivling’s Direct North ButtressThe quest for the magic lineThomas Huber, GermanyIf I continued climbing, I wouldn’t be able to calculate the risk anymore. I was standing on a tiny ledge in the middle of an overhanging wall. Iwan Wolf, ten meters ...
Koh-e-Maghrebi (6,040m), probable first ascent. Spanish mountaineers David Cejudo Fernandez and Luis Miguel Lopez made a rare visit to Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, where they made the probable first ascent of a 6,040m peak, subsequently named Ko...