Fluted Peak, Karcha Nala. K.V. Mohan led an expedition to this peak (6159 meters, 20,207 feet). Mohan reached the summit on August 20 with porters Moti and Vijay.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
MICHAEL KOSHUTA1956-1990On this fall morning in Colorado, I get up to light the wood stove and fix a cup of coffee. I sit down to a view out the window of hillsides sprinkled with the colors of autumn, the pines and the newly whitened peaks. The h...
Howser Spire: New Routes. On 23 July 1946 F. D. Ayres, J. C. Oberlin, Edward Little and D. M. Woods climbed Howser Spire (10,950 ft.) by a new route. From a bivouac at the foot of the W. ridge of Pigeon Spire, they left at 5.30 a. m.; and they mad...
El Capitan, Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys. In August, Boulos Ayad, Tyson Hausdoerffer and I managed to establish an 11-pitch new route on the southeast face of El Capitan that we named Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.10 PDH). The route joins Atlan...
Beware the FutureRobert HoranIN THE EARLY 1980s, Boulder, Colorado area standards for free climbing began to rise. Now, well into the 80s, the standards have sky-rocketed. Once again, Boulder’s free climbers are among the country’s leaders of diff...
Cerro Almirante Nieto, West Face. Ben Webster (Canada) and Sergio Echevarría (Chile) climbed the west face of Cerro Almirante Nieto in November, 1996, in six hours without a rope. It was a hard hike on snow and rocks. They spent four days in base ...
HENRY IVES BALDWIN1896-1992Henry Baldwin was bom in Saranac Lake, N.Y. and brought up in the Adirondacks, where he was one of the founders of the Adirondack Mountain Club. He was one of the early enthusiastic skiers, learning and perfecting the te...
Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and laughing. Jean-Baptiste Assier’s black belt in judo allowed us to enter nightclubs without worrying about our safet...
Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents. From June 20-July 10, Bill Gamble, Mark Davis, Chris Giles, and I established three new routes in the Little Switzerland area. Eat the Queen (V 5.9 A2+) on the Throne ascends a line through the prominent ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT— HIKING BOOTS—AND NO HARD HATWest Virginia, River RocksOn April 20, Mark Williamson (25) had finished a day of climbing and had already changed from his climbing shoes to his hiking boots. He re...
Sir George Everest’s 200th BirthdayAudrey Salkeld, The Alpine ClubSIR GEORGE EVEREST was bom two hundred years ago. It is well known that in 1849 reports reached Everest’s successor as Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, A...
Dobzebo, first ascent, via southwest ridge. When our team of four, comprising Alpine Club members Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott, Martin Scott, and Bill Thurston, were searching for new climbing opportunities, we looked no farther than Tibet. Requir...
Climbing and Exploration in the Northern PurcellsROBERT C. WEST, JR. and PETER ROBINSON Spillimacheen and Carbonate RangesIn the summer of 1952, looking southeast into the Purcells from Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks, we noticed some attractive-lo...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Sargents RidgeThe Mount Shasta area had a late winter start with very dry conditions on the mountain. The ridge routes, which are popula...
Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ago, the north face of Peak 13,134' in the northern San Juans. The face can be clearly seen from Dallas Divide, and I had made several atte...
Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali. From February 27 to March 30 Norwegians Odd Eliassen and Erik Boehlke and I made a 600-km journey on skis from Srinagar in Kashmir through Ladakh, Zanskar and Lahoul to Manali. Our commitment...
Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents. This range, known locally as the Cordillera Pariacacca, is located south of the mining town of La Oroya. Names for the range, such as Cordillera Central and Nevados de Cochas, that have been applied by...
Iowa Mountaineers. Another active year, 1994 saw 4056 individuals participating in the club’s instructional courses and climbing outings. Many of the instructional courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit. Membership of approxim...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. The year 2002 was one of remarkable activity in the Coast Mountains, both in southwest British Columbia near Vancouver and in remoter areas. Most new-route activity in the “greater” Coast Mountains, as always...
THE massive southwest ridge of Foraker is a labyrinthine collection of ribs and buttresses which, with meandering nonchalance, rises out of several different glaciers headed in several different directions. The point of confluence for these subo...