FALLING ROCK, “SLED RIDE” DOWN SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE,DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaI was on the second day of a planned four-day ascent of Green Butte Ridge (to include a night on top) of Mount Shasta on May 8, 1989. I was alone and about 3450...
Gashebrum I (Hidden Peak) and Tragedy. Every expedition set up its Base Camp on the Gasherbrum Glacier on the western side of the peak because the southern approaches from the Abruzzi Glacier were banned by the military in view of the Indo-Pakista...
FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, FALL ON SNOW, AMS, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14, 1991, four members of the Korean Blue Fire Expedition left their high camp at 18,200 feet at Denali Pass on the West Buttress r...
Batura. Our expedition led by Piotr Mlotecki set out from Aliabad on June 6. The approach took five days. Base Camp was established on a beautiful meadow below the moraine of the Batoqshi Glacier at 4000 meters. On June 12, Camp I was placed at 46...
Ramjak, attempt. This is a challenging 6318m unclimbed mountain with a sharp icy summit. The peak is located near the Shingo La (ca 5100m), which is crossed on a popular trekking route from Himachal Pradesh to Zanskar. Prior to 2001 there had been...
Lampak II Attempt. An Indian expedition from Bombay, composed of leader Ajit C. Shelat, Raju Waldalkar, Ajay Tambe and Prashant Bhagdikar, explored the previously unvisited Kalla Bank (glacier), north of Nanda Devi. Two attempts were made on Lampa...
Rock Climbing in Britain. David Jones. Collins Willow, London, 1984. 192 pages, black and white and color photographs, charts, diagrams, map, glossary. £20.00.If I were Mick Lovatt, I’d be happy. Mick was lucky enough to get two beautiful action p...
A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, by J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition, 12mo, xii + 225 pages. New York: American Alpine Club, 1955. Price, $3.00 ($2.25 to members).The new edition of this guidebook anticipates the 19...
Kohe Hevad. Another Polish expedition from Posnan to the Ishmurch valley was led by Jerzy Marcinkowski. They climbed Kohe Anoshah (17,356 feet) on August 7 and Kohe Hevad (22,471 feet) on August 14. Neither was a first ascent. On August 9 A. Dobek...
Annapurna South Face Tragedy. One of France’s foremost climbers, Pierre Beghin, and I had hoped to climb a new, difficult route on the south face of Annapurna between the 1970 British route and the 1981 Japanese one. Starting on September 29, we f...
In recent years the north side of the High Hindu Kush has again become accessible to climbers. There are beautiful peaks, untouched walls, and lonely valleys. There is also a lack of food, fuel, tourist infrastructure, mobile phone coverage and em...
Guillaumet. Shawn Tierney and I climbed the Fonrouge route on the northwest buttress of Guillaumet on January 1 and 2, 1994. We rate the 15-pitch climb as Grade IV or V, 5.9, A2.Perry Norris, Pacific Crest Outward Bound School
California, Mt. Baden-Powell—On Jan. 9, Richard Skultin (29) and Alice Kuhn (27) were descending Mt. Baden-Powell after completing the ascent. The wind was strong and icy. On the descent they started across a steep slope—the footing was bad and tr...
FALL /SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE—Washington, Mt. Olympus. On March 21, 1976, Kris Robertson, Mike Kalvelage, Bill Hansen and I left the Hoh River road on a scheduled six day attempt on Mt. Olympus. We camped the first night just below the...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, OVERCROWDED ROUTEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn September 4, Labor Day, Tom(40) and Ed (42) had planned to climb Culp-Bossier on Hallet Peak. We got a late start as we got to the base of the clim...
Tien Shan and Pik Pobedy Attempt. Our trekking group was allowed to travel from Kirgizstan over the Turugart Pass to Kashgar and the Mustagh Ata Base Camp, a route which has been cut off for decades. We were struck by the contrast between the gree...
Blob Rock, Limits of Power, Boulder Canyon. One of the more prominent routes that Rick Accomazzo and I put up in the Boulder area was Limits of Power. This is a strenuous 5.12 line right of Decade Dance and Ageing Time on Blob Rock. The first pitc...
P 5680, Pyramid Peak and P 5988, Parvati Valley, Kulu. A 5-man British expedition led by Oliver Shergold climbed several interesting peaks in the southern Parvati area. On September 16, Martin Jackson and Martin Shelley climbed P 5680 (18,635 feet...
South Tower and El Escudo, Attempts. A group of at least six Swiss (names unknown) attempted new routes on the east side of the South Tower and the right side of the main (lower) face on Escudo. Both failed to summit after 40 days of trying. They ...
Milpocraju, West Face, Tsurup, Southwest Face, and Pisco Oeste, South Face. Our expedition was to make a filmed ascent of a major peak in the Cordillera Blanca. The film will be presented for the Mick Burke Award, 1985. We established Base Camp on...