Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Janapampa, Taulliraju Group

Janapampa, Taulliraju Group. Members of our group made two climbs which are probably first ascents. One, Janapampa (17,192 feet), the high point on the southeast end of the Taulliraju ridge, was a fairly difficult ice and rock climb. It was done o...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The principal activity of the P.A.T.C. during 1950 was the maintenance of trails, closed shelters and open lean-tos along sections of the Appalachian Trail in Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania. The broader interes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol

Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol. The Austrian couple, Rudolf and Helga Lindner, climbed first above the Chi Ghari Glacier. On August 4 they climbed Rahozon Zom North (21,332 feet; peak 398 on the Wala map) and on the 6th Rahozon Zom Sou...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Altitude Physiology and Medicine

High Altitude Physiology and Medicine. Edited by Walter Brendel and Roman A. Zink. Springer Verlag, New York and Berlin, 1982. 316 pages. $65.High Altitude Physiology and Medicine is a collection of forty-nine papers presented at a symposium on hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Peaks in Marscarello Group, Southern Patagonian Icecap

Peaks in Marscarello Group, Southern Patagonian Icecap. In early 1971 we were in the practically unexplored region between Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino east of The Seno Moyano, hoping to climb Cerro Risopatrón on the western edge of the Southern...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Whitehorn, North Face and North Ridge North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies

Whitehorn lies about eight miles southwest of Robson and can be easily seen from the Mount Robson trail; with binoculars you can see the “white horn” on the summit formed by a large snow cornice. Until two weeks prior to our arrival, no route on t...

| Published 1973 | Author Jocelyn C. Glidden


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Chaukhamba I (7138m), Attempts and Tragedy

Chaukhamba I (7138m), attempts and tragedy. In May a 14-member team from Calcutta led by Brijes Dey attempted the north face of this high mountain, approaching from Badrinath and Mana. They found the huge face very avalanche prone, with many large...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Shivling

Shivling. Our expedition was composed of Armando Della Valle, Mario Taller, Giordano Voltolini, Mauro Fioretta and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Topovan on October 9. After acclimatization climbs on lower slopes, we all started on October 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993

Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago Pingo. Fascinated by the view, I was determined to come back to this area. In December 1993, I returned with...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Group, Eastpost Spire, South Face

Eastpost Spire, South Face. Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic (Slovenia) climbed a new route, Mountain Fairy Tale (300 meters, 5.9 A3) on the south face of Eastpost Spire and dedicated it to the late Vanja Furlan.Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije


Feature Article AAJ
East of the Himalaya, Part I: East Tibet Part I: East Tibet

EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" East Tibet holds two principle mountain ranges, the Nyainqentangl...

| Published N/A | Author Tamotsu Nakamura


Feature Article AAJ
Under the Weather

Under the WeatherWhy is Scotland such a good training ground for much higher mountains? Perhaps because an average winter day in Scotland offers more adventure than a week of storms anywhere else.Simon RichardsonIt was past two in the afternoon, b...


Club Activities AAJ
Arizona Mountaineering Club

Arizona Mountaineering Club. Our club had numerous outings throughout the year to Granite Mountain, Camelback Mountain, Pinnacle Peak, the McDowell Mountains and Little Granite Mountain. Our average climbing rating is 5.7, and the climbs are usual...


Book Reviews AAJ
Beyond the Mountain

Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95.Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described tale of “Commitment on Steroids,” with selected insights into one of alpinisms m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Solo Unsupported Continental Crossing

Solo Unsupported Continental Crossing. It was reported that Borge Ousland departed Antarctica’s Berkner Island in the Weddell Sea on November 15 and arrived at Ross Island’s New Zealand Scott Base in McMurdo Sound at 23:45 GMT, January 17, 1997, h...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

AAC, Cascade Section. In 2003 the Cascade Section helped organize and sponsor two events in conjunction with a local web-based climbing group, cascadeclimbers.com. We also took part in a three-day mountaineering event hosted by REI in late Februar...


In Memoriam AAJ
Wanda Rutkiewicz, 1943-1992

WANDA RUTKIEWICZ1943-1992The mountaineering world suffered in 1992 the loss of the greatest woman climber of all time. Wanda Rutkiewicz was last seen when she chose to bivouac alone several hours below the summit of K2 during the attempt to climb ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Smaug (ca 5,000m) Asia, China, Yunnan, Yulong Xueshan

On December 17, 2010, Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area of Lijiang county. The Yulong Xueshan massif has around 14 significant peaks over 5,000m, nearly all of which...

| Keywords
| Published 2010 | Author Mike Dobie


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Change of Plans, Wyoming, Devil's Tower National Monument

FALL ON ROCK—CHANGE OF PLANSWyoming, Devil’s Tower National MonumentOn August 21 at 1450, the Visitor Center received a report from Lucas Bannister that a climber was calling for help on the Southwest Buttress. I notified Ranger Fontaine to organi...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbing Ethics

Climbing EthicsThis was written by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Tools, Inc. under the leadership of Sam Davidson. Many climbers contributed to its production.CLIMBING IN THE UNITED STATES is now a popular recreational activity. There are ...