DEHYDRATION, UNABLE TO GET TO MITTENS–FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibOn May 3rd, the three-member expedition, Rocky Mountain West Rib, led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, flew in to the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the West Rib. On the 17th, they ...
Indira Col, Sia Kangri and Saltoro Kangi. (Editor’s Note: Although this is placed under Pakistan, one must bear in mind that this is disputed territory and is considered India by Indians.) After driving to Panamik, the Indian Army Eastern Karakora...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-GLISSADINGBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount ResplendentOn August 25, a party of four summited Mount Resplendent. On the descent, they chose to glissade a steep snow slope, near the base of the Mousetrap, ...
Annapurna II Tragedy. Klaus and Jochen Schlamberger, Hans Gsellmann and I tried to climb Annapurna II by the north face and northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. We were at Base Camp at 15,100 feet on April 11 but were held there by bad weather until A...
Mount Thor, North Ridge, Chugach Range, Winter Ascent. Leo Americus and I spent four days skiing the 32 miles to the base of the north side of Mount Thor via the Nelchina and Sylvester Glaciers, starting on February 10. From there we made the firs...
Gaurishankar Attempt and Tragedy. After establishing Base Camp at 4200 meters and an Advance Base, two Japanese climbers, the only members of the expedition, reached their high point of 6500 meters on May 2 on the south Face of Gaurishankar just u...
Pamiagdluk Island, Kangerdluarssuk Fjord, Baron and other peaks, new routes, exploring, and mapmaking. On July 8, 12 members of the Karabiner Mountaineering Club left the UK on the complex journey to Pamiagdluk Island, near Cape Farewell, South Gr...
Annapurna South Face Ascent and Tragedy. On December 20, Noboru Yamada, Yasuhira Saito, Teruo Saegusa and Toshiyuki Kobayashi reached the summit of Annapurna, completing the first winter ascent of the south face and the first ascent of the mountai...
Pico de la Plata. This massive mountain (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) has two summits: Cerro and Pico. The latter is some 150 meters lower. The Cerro’s steep east face has been climbed in both summer and winter, whereas no winter ascent had been made...
Middle Palisade, East Face. On August 31, Tim Ryan and I climbed a new route on the east face of Middle Palisade (14,040 feet). We cramponed up to the highest point of the glacier. Tim led the first pitch, the most difficult of the climb; this del...
FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, POOR CONDITIONS Washington, Leavenworth(On February 22, 1986, Bob Betsworth [31] had an ice climbing accident. He sent the following narrative, which has been edited with the...
Gratification Peak (11,600). Register placed on summit by writer on July 16th. Probably other unreported ascents of this easy peak were made later in the summer.Fritiof M. Fryxell, Grand Teton National Park.
Pik Moscow, Pamir Mountains, 1982. Czechs Stanislav Glejdura and Ladislav Kyrc made a new route on the 6500-foot north face of Pik Moscow (6785 meters, 22,260 feet) from August 1 to 4, 1982. Near the top of the face, rockfall drove them from the d...
Fitz Roy, Tehuelche and Supercanaleta, attempts. I spent a month with Chris Turiano, a very good and strong guy from Colorado. We were in Piedra del Fraile with the intention of attempting Tehuelche (1,200m, VI 5.11 A2) on the north face of Fitz R...
Nepalese Peak Fees. Climbers are concerned with a sizeable increase in the fees that the Nepalese government charges for permission to climb its peaks. On September 20, the Ministry of Tourism announced that fees were being raised for the start of...
Overview. The first team to visit the Peninsula during the season comprised Sergy Baranov, Rissa Bullock Ivory, Kris Erickson, Kip Garre, Nickolay Veselovskiy, Doug Stoop and Ilyas Mukhtarov. Traveling aboard Australis, skippered by Roger Wallis, ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR AND BELAY INADEQUATE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn December 3, 1988, Boy Scout Troop #156 was conducting rappel training/practice on the north side wall of the Indian Cove Campground Amphitheater. One anch...
Scenic Guides, by Weldon F. Heald. Susanville, California: H. C. Johnson. Price, $1.50 each.Scenic Guide to Oregon. 100 pages, with photographs and maps. 1951.Scenic Guide to Nevada. 80 pages with photographs and maps. Revised edition, 1952.Scenic...
Trapecio, Southwest Spur, Cordillera Huayhuash. From the start I did not feel the easy euphoria of my previous Andean expeditions, possibly because I sensed the sacrifices and effort we should have to sustain, fighting wind and snow to get to the ...
California-Yosemite (3): On November 9, 1952, L. C. Ames, Jr., and Mrs. P. Kool from Victorville, California Air Force Base, were rescued from the cliff ledges about 120 feet above the valley floor near Yosemite Falls. They had registered for the ...