Mt. Temple north face, winter ascents of Greenwood-Locke and Robinson-Orvig a.k.a. Sphynx Face. “It is impossible to say how first the idea entered my brain; but, once conceived, it haunted me day and night.” – Edgar Allan Poe, The Tell-Tale Heart...
ALISON CHADWICK-ONYSZKIEWICZ1942-1978Alison was born in Birmingham but grew up and spent her formative years in Cornwall. She started to climb in 1960 while studying at the Slade School of Fine Arts in London when she joined a group of postgraduat...
Denali National Park and Preserve summary. Sadly, nine climbers died in the Alaska Range during 2011, making it the third deadliest year on record. The impact of these losses is not something that can be put into words. In addition 36 climbers wer...
The Fatality On KanchenjungaW. S. Ladd“ONE day towards the end of winter, there walked into my office a tall, clear-eyed, square-jawed, young man. He was from Virginia. He had lived in New York City for years, working in one of those great down-to...
Daxue Shan Range, Various Ascents. During the month of October, 1996, Fred Beckey led an expedition to the Daxue Shan range of central Sichuan Province in the People’s Republic of China. The marketing people at Ross Labs agreed to support the trip...
EDWARD LISLE STRUTT 1874-1948The unexpected death of Colonel E. L. Strutt at Edinburgh on 7 July 1948 deprives the American Alpine Club of a distinguished honorary member, who edited the Alpine Journal from 1927 to 1937, succeeding Captain Farrar,...
Calculated Risk, by Dougal Haston. London: Diadem Books, 1979. 190 pages, glossary. Price £4.95.Calculated Risk is the story of a Scottish climber, Jack McDonald who struggles continuously for understanding of himself, his friends, antagonists, an...
FALLING ROCK—FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Whitney-GilmanMay 18 was a gorgeous day when two former students of mine and I headed up on the Whitney-Gilman ridge about 10:00 a.m. after waiting for one party of three to advance the first t...
TURLOUGH O’BRIEN 1954-1979Only those are fit to live who do not fear to die; and none are fit to die who have shrunk from the joy of life. Both life and death are part of the same great adventure.Theodore Roosevelt Toby, are you there? Can you hea...
Cerro Domo Blanco, Son of Jurel; Aguja Poincenot, Southern Cross; Cerro Piergiorgio, attempt. In January 2002 Jonathan Copp and I arrived in Chalten intending to climb a new route on the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio. We never succeeded in this g...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. This spring, 22 parties attempted to scale Everest from the north, 14 from the south and one from the east. A total of 117 people went to the summit of Everest from the three different sides: 48 from the north in Tibet ...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Olympic National ParkOn June 7, 1987, Dennis Lund (37) was climbing in the base of the final 30-meter rock gully on the south buttress of The Brothers when this accident occurred. A member of this group (of The...
Mount McKinley from the North and WestBradford WashburnEVERY one of the five expeditions which have succeeded in climbing above 15,000 ft. on Mount McKinley has used almost exactly the same route for the ascent.The actual summit of the South Peak ...
Dave Anderson, Steve Herlighy, and Jamie Selda (USA) and Nacho Grez (Chile) spent 27 days in the Avellano Valley, 80 miles south of the town of Coyhaique. Their main objective was a striking unclimbed granite wall, the Avellano Tower. The expedi...
Mexico. It is encouraging to note the decrease in the number of fatal accidents on Mexican mountains in 1951 compared to 1950. Two fatalities as a result of a total of four accidents were reported to this committee by theChairman of the Safety Com...
STRANDED, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEADLAMP, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Yellow SpurAround 2:00 p.m. on the afternoon of March 9, I (Nandu Thibeault, 23) and my partner (19) started on Y...
Orvin Fjella Mountains: “Windmill Spire,” first ascent, by Frozen Tears; Unnamed Peak, first ascent, by Dragon Back Ridge. In November and December, Mike Libecki spent five weeks alone in a region of granite spires that forms part of the Orvin Fje...
EDWARD CUSHING1903-1956Edward Thomas Francis Cushing was born September 19, 1903, in New York City, his mother being German. He went through a public grade-school in New York and attended Horace Mann School for a short time, but this completed his...
British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Clemenceau Ice Field. On 2 August Roly Morrison (31), Bill Sharp (35), and Howie Ridge (27) set off from the base camp of the A.C.C. Climbing Camp to establish a High Camp in the Duplicate — Shackleton cwm for t...
During World War II an amazingly high percentage of the members of the American Alpine Club were actively engaged in the Armed Forces, while most of the other members shared wartime civil and administrative responsibilities connected with the nati...