Granite Peak, North Face. On August 4, 1963 I climbed the north face of Granite Peak, a new route and the most continually difficult ascent done on the mountain yet. There were 1500 feet of continuous class 4, exposed and interesting, with two tri...
HAZEL BRILL JACKSON1894-1991Hazel Brill Jackson died on May 22, 1991 at her home in Newburgh, New York at the age of 96. She was the daughter of William Henry and Lizabeth Lee Stone Jackson. She studied at the Museum School of the Museum of Fine A...
Bécquer, Cordón del Portillo. Andrés García, Jorge Marios and Miguel Abrego made the first ascent of Bécquer (16,400 feet) in early 1966.Cordón Cochrane, Patagonia. Chilean university students, Eduardo García, leader, Erling Villalobos and I, expl...
RAPPEL ERROR—DID NOT SECURE RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 6, after belaying his partners down a 20 to 30 foot cliff, the victim (39) fell about 30 feet while rappelling. A Ranger found a red sling girth hitched aro...
A Second Khan Tengri Tragedy. A British commercial expedition had three clients led by aspirant guide Peter Potter. At the 4200-meter Base Camp they were joined by Russians Ilia Iodis and Valeri Khrishchaty, who were to act as guides. The party ha...
Mount McKinley. Bill Krause, Ted Waltman and Mike Danaher in alpine style made the fourth ascent of the East Buttress, reaching the summit on June 8 before descending the West Buttress. They had very severe weather conditions on this difficult rou...
FALLING ROCKYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, South-southwest ButtressJohn Lauchlan, Jim Elzinga, and five others were climbing the South-southwest Buttress of Mt. Logan on an unstated date in the summer of 1978. One of the tents on the buttress was des...
Mount Snoqualmie, Northwest Face. I had noticed this face several times from neighboring peaks before I finally got around to visiting it. On September 29 I started from the new Alpental ski area by taking the Snow Lake trail as far as the Snoqual...
On August 20 Nikolay Dobrjaev, Anatoliy Djuliy, Aleksey Kirienko, and Vladimir Leonenko made the first ascent of the nearly 2,500m-high south ridge of Peak Voennih Topografov (Army Topographers, 6,873m) east of Pobeda. They also made the first tra...
Portal to Paradise Pinnacle, White Mesa. Among the many fine photographs included in C. Gregory Crampton’s book Standing Up Country is one of a slender spire tritely named “The Monolith”. In the fall of 1967 Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield and I ascen...
New England Section. Sixty members and guests attended the 12th annual gala dinner on March 22 to share conviviality in the atmosphere of our elegant venue at the Henderson House (the Northeastern University Conference Center) in Weston. On exhibi...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. In January the club sponsored Barry Corbet’s colored slide showing “Assault on Everest.” A turnout of 350 people attended this outstanding program, and proceeds from it were given to the Mount Everest Foundation to help de...
Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Ski Descent. The aim of the expedition was to ski from the summit of Gasherbrum I down the north face of the mountain. Members of the expedition were Janez Golob (leader), Marko Car, Simon Copi, Urban Golob, and Matic Jost...
Table Mountain, East Face, South Buttress. This buttress, one of three prominent on the east side of the flat-topped Table Mountain at the head of the south fork of Cascade Canyon, was attempted on September 8, 1960, by Kenneth Weeks and M. E. Hor...
Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur. My companion, Bas Grenigt, had had a serious operation because of a bicycle accident just before our departure and had trouble keeping going at high altitude. On June 29 we did climb together Rasac Este by its southeas...
The Citadel, The Endless Day. Mike “Twid” Turner, Louise Thomas, Jerry Gore and Shaun Hutson made the first ascent of “The Citadel” in Stewart Valley via their 900-meter route, The Endless Day. (The climbers note that the peak may already have an ...
Sarapo, Northwest Face. A few brief moments under the west face of Siulá convinced Tom Sisson and me that we did not want to play Russian Roulette with our lives on that face. The snow-and-ice northwest face of Sarapo, a short way up the glacier, ...
Selkirks. While doing geology, Hamish Mutch and I climbed most of the peaks in the Fang Creek, Downie Lake, Purity Range and Van Horne Névé areas. Innovations included a new route on Mount Wheeler via the longest ridge from Thor Glacier; new route...
South Fork Ice Routes. In April 1999, while flying over the South Fork near Cody, I discovered a new arena of ice. A day later we began the epic approach, six miles into the Shoshone Wilderness. We named the first and largest amphitheater Garden o...
Banderpunch, Black Peak. Hari Dang led his Doon schoolboys to the Black Peak (20,956 feet) of the Banderpunch group. The peak was climbed on June 14 by Goggi Aggarwala and Sherpa Nima. (First ascent by J.M.T. Gibson and two Sherpas on June 7, 1955...