Santa Rosa, Cordillera Raura. Tom Frost, Charles Grossbeck and I spent June in Peru preparing for a climbing-filming expedition to the Cordillera Raura. The National Geographic Society, in conjunction with the Colorado Outward Bound School, was pl...
Paine Chico, West Face and Torre Norte del Paine, North Summit, West Face. It had stormed for days and when it dawned fine on February 19, South African Philip Lloyd and I slumbered late. Not until nine A.M. did we awake with shock and horror and ...
Mount Tsar, East Ridge, Canadian Rockies. Steve Sheriff and I climbed this classic ice, snow and rock ridge on August 3 and 4. Once one of the most remote peaks in the Canadian Rockies, Tsar is now easily accessible via logging roads which follow ...
FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, AVALANCHE AND/OR INADEQUATE RELAY, NOHARD HATWashington, Dragontail PeakOn January 27, 1991, two well known and experienced Seattle climbers, Hope Barnes (33) and Kathy Phibbs (33), began a climb of Dragontail Peak via Triple ...
Qi Lian, Gansu, Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Tsukasa Ogai, Kazuo Ishihara, Sakutaro Kono, Yu Sato, Michio Takahashi, Tomohiro Kameoka, Nobuhiko Muto, Koichi Kinoshita, Masao Takahashi, Shinji Yasuda, Nobuo Momai, Masakatsu Horie, Nobuyo...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)—Fred Ford (25), John Austin (26) and Robert Bartholomew (20) spent the night of June 27 in high camp in the lower saddle between the Grand and Middle Teton. In the morning of the 28th day they set out to clim...
Colorado, Various Ice Ascents. Two new hard mixed water ice climbs were established in Vail. Alex Lowe established Aberrant Behavior (M7) to the left of the Rigid Designator. Even further to the left, Stevie Haston climbed above Doctor Delicate to...
Baintha Brakk (Ogre), South Buttress Attempt. Our expedition was com posed of Joos Philippens, Gaby Jöbses and climbers Hans Lanters and me. We attempted the 3000-foot-high south buttress tried by British in 1977 and French in 1983. We set up Base...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HANDHOLD CAME OFFBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn September 21, two climbers were beginning the standard North Ridge route of Mt. Assiniboine (3620 meters). The route was in excellent late-season condit...
Himlung, ascent. A Spanish expedition led by Inigo Loyola made the fourth ascent of Himlung (7,126m) in the Peri Himal. The previous three ascents have all been by the straightforward west ridge (Japanese in 1992; French in 2001 and French again i...
Trango Nameless Tower. There is a full article earlier in this Journal on the remarkable ascent of this spire, which came close to being a tragedy when a huge section of the mountain fell to its base.
Rocky Mountains of Canada. The following ascents were made in 1948 by Mr. and Mrs. E. Cromwell:Mt. Hurd (9275 ft.), first ascent. From the road between Field and Leanchoil, by steep goat trail up hard-baked and almost vertical gully, to open meado...
Ama Dablam, Winter Ascent, 1995. A Japanese expedition of three climbed Ama Dablam by the standard southwest ridge. On January 14, 1995, the leader Yasuhiro Takaguchi and Mitsuru Kimura completed the 150th ascent of the peak.Elizabeth Hawley
Index Town Wall, Lookout Point. On March 14, Dan Klimke, Gary Buck- ham and I completed the first ascent of Steel Pulse. The route followed the crest of a prominent large bell-shaped slab on the right side of Lookout Point for three pitches. The c...
PULMONARY EDEMA, HEART MURMURAlaska, Mount McKinleyAlan Pohl (33) was a member of a four-man expedition called the Wyoming Boys Go Climbing. The expedition flew into the Kahiltna Glacier on April 22, 1982, to climb the West Rib of Mount McKinley. ...
Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents. A group of eight Britons led by Brian Needham was flown into the eastern part of the Rignys Bjerg ranges in June. They experienced excellent stable weather and were able to explore new mountain groups, maki...
Paul Roderick of TAT landed Maxime Turgeon, Freddie Wilkinson, and I on the eastern edge of the upper Yentna Glacier, right at the edge of the wilderness boundary and about four miles from where we made our base camp. In this same area the previou...
Makalu Winter Attempt. Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander tried to make the first winter ascent of the world’s fifth highest mountain but failed. They made three attempts on the northwest ridge, the Kukuczka route, reaching 7500 meters on the ...
Argentine Patagonia, Attempts and Ascents. My objective was to attempt the unclimbed west face of Torre Egger with two French climbers, David Autheman and Antoine Noury, and a Norwegian climber, Trym Saeland. When Trym and I arrived at Base Camp, ...
Cuerno Blanco, South Face. In December 2007 Valentino Rota, David Valdez, and I climbed a new route on the south face of Cuerno Blanco (5,050m). It is a beautiful, rarely climbed mountain in Chile's Yeso Valley, east of Santiago. On December 20 we...