Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Iliamna, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range

Mount lliamna, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. During the week of June 1 to 7 Helga Bading, Erik Barnes, Gregg Erickson, and I made the first ascent of Mount Iliamna (10,016 feet), following two unsuccessful attempts by other parties in 1958. T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Arwa Tower, New Route

Arwa Tower, new route. A Swiss expedition led by Frederic Roux climbed the north face and the east ridge of Arwa Tower in 17 hours on October 7. The summit was reached by the leader with Gabriel Basson and Benoit Jean-Paul Darbellay. They had exce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Kedar Dome

Kedar Dome. A 13-member Indian team was led by Babban Prasad Singh. On September 7, four members and three high-altitude porters set out from Camp II at 6250 meters. Three of the members gave up but Sudhir Kumar Mahto and the porters continued on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum III

Gasherbrum III (7,952m), second ascent. On June 17 Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki, and I arrived at Gasherbrum base camp; we wanted to attempt G-IV by the northeast original route, but by July 12 we were tired of the bad weather and the deep track...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Chumathang, Mahadev and Chokul, Eastern Ladakh

Chumathang, Mahadev and Chokul, Eastern Ladakh. A 16-member Indian Army team led by Lieutenant Colonel J.N. Goel left Leh on July 26. They set up two camps beyond Base Camp. Nine members climbed Chumathang (20,300 feet) and another six climbed Mah...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992

Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992. A Korean team led by Kim Jae-Soo made what is probably a new route on the 750-meter-high southeast face of the southeast summit (c. 5970 meters) of Lobuje East. They made two unsuccessful attempts on Septemb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Leipzig

Pik Leipzig. Near Pik Lenina, there are still rarely visited lower peaks. On August 9, East Germans Ralf Brummer, Wolfgang Hempel, Erhard Klinger and Siegfried Wittig climbed the probably virgin P 5725 (18,783 feet). They completed the ascent from...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Haydon Peak and Attempt on St. Elias

Haydon Peak and Attempt on St. Elias. Dan Dobbins, Bob Carlson, Paul Richens, Steve Barker and I as leader gave Mount St. Elias our best but did not attain the summit. On May 14 we helicoptered to 2500 feet on the southwest ridge (the Harvard rout...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Beartooth Range, Granite Peak, North Face

Granite Peak, North Face. On August 4, 1963 I climbed the north face of Granite Peak, a new route and the most continually difficult ascent done on the mountain yet. There were 1500 feet of continuous class 4, exposed and interesting, with two tri...


In Memoriam AAJ
Hazel Jackson, 1894-1994

HAZEL BRILL JACKSON1894-1991Hazel Brill Jackson died on May 22, 1991 at her home in Newburgh, New York at the age of 96. She was the daughter of William Henry and Lizabeth Lee Stone Jackson. She studied at the Museum School of the Museum of Fine A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Bécquer, Cordón del Portillo

Bécquer, Cordón del Portillo. Andrés García, Jorge Marios and Miguel Abrego made the first ascent of Bécquer (16,400 feet) in early 1966.Cordón Cochrane, Patagonia. Chilean university students, Eduardo García, leader, Erling Villalobos and I, expl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error—Did Not Secure Rappel Anchor Sling, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

RAPPEL ERROR—DID NOT SECURE RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 6, after belaying his partners down a 20 to 30 foot cliff, the victim (39) fell about 30 feet while rappelling. A Ranger found a red sling girth hitched aro...


Accident Reports AAJ
A Second Khan Tengri Tragedy

A Second Khan Tengri Tragedy. A British commercial expedition had three clients led by aspirant guide Peter Potter. At the 4200-meter Base Camp they were joined by Russians Ilia Iodis and Valeri Khrishchaty, who were to act as guides. The party ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

Mount McKinley. Bill Krause, Ted Waltman and Mike Danaher in alpine style made the fourth ascent of the East Buttress, reaching the summit on June 8 before descending the West Buttress. They had very severe weather conditions on this difficult rou...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan, South-Southwest Buttress

FALLING ROCKYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, South-southwest ButtressJohn Lauchlan, Jim Elzinga, and five others were climbing the South-southwest Buttress of Mt. Logan on an unstated date in the summer of 1978. One of the tents on the buttress was des...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Snoqualmie, Northwest Face

Mount Snoqualmie, Northwest Face. I had noticed this face several times from neighboring peaks before I finally got around to visiting it. On September 29 I started from the new Alpental ski area by taking the Snow Lake trail as far as the Snoqual...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Tien Shan

On August 20 Nikolay Dobrjaev, Anatoliy Djuliy, Aleksey Kirienko, and Vladimir Leonenko made the first ascent of the nearly 2,500m-high south ridge of Peak Voennih Topografov (Army Topographers, 6,873m) east of Pobeda. They also made the first tra...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Portal to Paradise Pinnacle, White Mesa

Portal to Paradise Pinnacle, White Mesa. Among the many fine photographs included in C. Gregory Crampton’s book Standing Up Country is one of a slender spire tritely named “The Monolith”. In the fall of 1967 Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield and I ascen...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., New England Section

New England Section. Sixty members and guests attended the 12th annual gala dinner on March 22 to share conviviality in the atmosphere of our elegant venue at the Henderson House (the Northeastern University Conference Center) in Weston. On exhibi...


Club Activities AAJ
Alpenbock Climbing Club

Alpenbock Climbing Club. In January the club sponsored Barry Corbet’s colored slide showing “Assault on Everest.” A turnout of 350 people attended this outstanding program, and proceeds from it were given to the Mount Everest Foundation to help de...