Mt. Foraker, North Face, and Circumnavigation. Historically, getting to the north side of Mt. Foraker has been a serious endeavor. The conditions of the terrain during the climbing season tend to be horrible; there is usually poor-quality snow, ra...
Climb: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, Bob Godfrey. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, second edition, 2002.200 b&w photos. 256 pages. Hard cover: $44.95. Paperback: $29.95.The Rocky Mountain’s Front Range a...
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East. We'd spotted it while making day hikes toward the Cho La (pass). Ice in the back of a prominent weakness cau...
Cerro StanhardtJames BridwellFIVE DAYS AFTER LEAVING LOS ANGELES, Elisa Moran, Greg Smith, Jay Smith and I arrived at Fitz Roy National Park in the heart of Patagonia, the promised land. The promise is bad weather, but that of course allowed us ti...
Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expeditions joined the fray in 2004 to continue their efforts to locate the famous British cl...
Colorado, Mt. Blanca—On June 18, 14 members of the Los Alamos Mountaineers were camped below the N. Face of Mt. Blanca (14,364 feet). Plans called for the main party to ascend the NE ridge; two members (H. Hoyt, S. Landeen) elected to climb to the...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Red PeakOn August 5, John Wood (20) and Christina Moir (28) had climbed to the ridge from the west side of Red Peak and came to the top of the couloir. Wood had glissaded the slope bef...
Logan Mountains. Geoff Spedding and I spent five weeks of June and July climbing in the Ragged Range of the Logan Mountains, followed by two weeks on the South Nahanni and Liard rivers, which we descended to Fort Simpson. We flew in by jet helicop...
Mt. Sanford: An Alaskan Ski ClimbTerris MooreMT. SANFORD is remarkable because of its unique shape. Although presenting precipitous cliffs from the edge of its 16,206-ft. summit toward the S. and E. where it faces the rest of the Wrangell Range, i...
Peak 8,680', Ascent. On August 26, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew Mike Loso and me to the 4,500-foot level of the upper Bremner Glacier. We spent the 27th and 28th checking out peaks in the area for routes and moving camp five and a half ...
First ascents from valleys east of Nam Tso. I spent 23 days from November 9 to December 1 climbing in an area of the Western Nyanchen Tanglha not far from Samdain Kangsang (6,590m), the main peak in this area. I reached this region from Lhasa in l...
Reconnaissance of Dhaula IV (Dhaulagiri IV). Our small expedition, consisting of James Roberts, four Sherpa porters and a liaison officer, left Pokhara with 20 Tamang porters on September 10. Rain fell daily. Marching past Baglung and Beni and the...
Colorado, Royal Gorge. A party consisting of Bob LaGrange, Bob Stafford, and Jim Disney had planned to climb the Carson City Buttress underneath the bridge across the Royal Gorge. M. E. Horn, Jr. and Charlie Love were also interested in this same ...
Overlord and Tête des Cirques. Ken Scott and I met in Montreal on July 3 and flew to Pangnirtung the following day. After two days in Pangnirtung we traveled by freight canoe to the boundary of Auyuittuq National Park. We climbed Overlord Peak (48...
Mt. Formidable, complete East Ridge. On July 30 Kurt Buchwald and I completed the ridgecrest traverse (IV 5.7) from the Spider-Formidable Col to the summit of Mt. Formidable. From the Spider-Formidable col at 7,350', we moved northwest and around ...
Alpamayo, Chacraraju Oeste and Other Peaks. Viktor Jaralím, Miroslav Svoboda, Václav Zajíc and I on June 1 in five hours climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo by the Italian route. We also ascended Chacraraju Oeste from June 10 to 12 by the Bouch...
The Mummer, Cuerno Oriental, and the Sharksfin, Various Activity. During March and April of 1998, Tom Bauman, Alan Kearney and Jack Lewis climbed in Patagonia and performed clean-up work with the help of a grant from Polartec. On March 24, Bauman ...
The Cross Country Ski Book by Johnny Caldwell. The Stephen Greene Press, Brattleboro, Vt., 1964. 80 pages, 39 illustrations. Price, paperbound, $1.95, hardbound, $3.50.The popular concept of skiing has changed greatly — narrowed — during the two d...
South Peak of Mount Ogilvie, Northern Boundary Ranges. On August 29 Alf Pinchak and I made the first ascent of the south peak of Mount Ogilvie (7500 feet). The main peak had previously been ascended. From our camp on a cleaver overlooking the Vaug...
South Tower of Howser Spire, East Face. Of all Bugaboo peaks, the fabulous South Tower had been woefully neglected by climbers and had not been climbed in twenty years. It was the only Bugaboo peak with but one route. To Yvon Chouinard and me, ten...