Cho Oyu, South Face Winter Attempt. Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner, Paul Hanny, Hans Kammerlander and Peter Eisendle, South Tiro- lean Italians, Wojciech Kurtyka, Polish, and I, Austrian, were accompanied to Base Camp by four women, a writ...
Mt. Barille, Feeling Randy. On April 22 Sean Easton, Dave Marra, and I flew into the Ruth Gorge with aspirations to climb new routes. We decided to “warm up” on the southeast buttress of Mt. Barille. Two days after landing I started up the first p...
Alpine Club of Canada. The main summer camp for 1968 was held at Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park, with 127 members and friends in attendance. The camp was set up in Schaeffer Meadow, adjacent to Schaeffer Lake at 7200 feet. The first few days we...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2009 climbing season once again featured great triumphs and moving tragedies. Four deaths occurred on Mt. McKinley, and 47 climbers were stricken with injuries or illnesses that required medical inte...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1964. Reported in Alpinismus were climbs in the Pamirs. On August 3, four Siberian climbers led by G. Schwarzmann climbed a 20,223-foot peak neighboring Pik Lenin. A 10-man expedition led by W. Syrkin made the first ascent o...
East Peak of the Gothics, Southwest Face, Adamant Peaks, Northern Selkirks. Fred Beckey, Jan Schwarzburg and I made the first ascent of the impressive southwest face of the east peak of the Gothics (10,640 feet) on July 24 to 26 (V, 5.9, A2). An a...
FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, North Cascades National Park, Mount Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys RouteOn September 16, John Nedila (50) slipped on a 50-degree snow slope on the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan. He slid about 125 ...
Mt. Columbia. Ascent direct from Columbia Icefield chalet, via Athabaska Glacier and S. E. ridge. 1940, Miss J. Atkin, D. R. Crosby, P. Lagerström. Chalet to top of glacier 2 h. 45 m. Icefalls well bridged and ascended without rope; skis with skin...
Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall variation. It is a testament to E1 Nino and an open-minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July. It was made possible by its high altitude, the shade of a northwest face, a...
San Juan Group, Cordillera Blanca. Lisle Irwin and I went in August, 1966 into the Quebrada Shallap with David Bathgate and Terry Burnell. We tried San Juan Sur without success but did climb P 5459 (17,911 feet) at the head of the Quebrada Minas, ...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn August 11 at 1130 Ranger Jim Woodmency was hit by rockfall in the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton while on a routine mountain patrol. The rockfall was spontaneous from a ledge on the northeast side of The Enclosu...
Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja Poincenot, 1983. In October 1982 Ermanno Salvaterra and Elio Orlandi failed by 100 feet to complete the Maestri route on the east buttress of Cerro Torre when the weatherturned bad. They returned i...
White Mountains and Tawny Plain, by Günter Hauser, Translated by Richard Rickett. London: Allen and Unwin, 1961. 224 pages; illustrated. Price 28s.This excellent book originally appeared in German as Ihr Herren Berge, Menschen und Gipfel im Lande ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTIONUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn June 2, 1985, Richard Jefferis (29) fell while attempting to climb Half A Finger (5.9). He had been bouldering on the rocks at the entrance to the climbing area for several hours before agre...
Mustagh Ata. A five-man Japanese party led by Keizo Yabuki climbed Mustagh Ata in the autumn. Yukata Takagi and Shohei Suzuki arrived at the summit.
Chekiaraju, Winter Ascent. Although according to the position of the sun from December to March it is summer, this season with much unfavorable weather is generally called “winter” throughout the Andean regions of Peru. David Teegardin, Andy Bell ...
REGIONAL MOUNTAIN SAFETY PROGRAMSIt is relevant to bring up reports on what some of the mountaineering clubs and related organizations in North America are doing to combat mountain accidents. Admittedly, not all climbing organizations are mentione...
The Obelisk, Northwest Corner. Don Palmer, Jack Bedell and I climbed a new route on the Obelisk’s northwest comer on June 19. Starting near the left edge of the west face, we ascended 3½ pitches of easy, delightful face-climbing to gain a notch be...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park. On 17 February Mr. Charles H. Anderson led a group from Paradise to the Paradise Ice Caves. The party consisted of him, his wife Edith (22), Dave Mischke, and Bob Brown. Brown, however, turned back shortly af...
The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after a difficult 200km off-road ride. The only attempt on the route was by Mexicans in 1994. In March a team led by Guillermo Almaraz, with...