Pare Chu region, Thongsal. On August 9, after a flight from Delhi to Leh several days earlier,Irena Artuñedo and I made a six-hour jeep ride to Korzok (4,500m) and began a three-day trek south to advanced base at 4,735m. [Editor’s note: Tsuneo Suz...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alaska, Talkeetna Mountains, Archangel ValleyOn July 1, 1994, Beav Deering and I finally made it up to Archangel Valley on a sunny day for some long awaited climbing. We chose an easier route, Toto (5.7)—on the ...

A Hidden Gem—Ama Dablam’s Northeast FaceMichael KennedySUNSHINE, light, and warmth were all I wanted after Ama Dablam. But memory plays its tricks. The cold, the wind, the frustration of moving too slowly through soft, deep snow, the long, dark ni...

Huascarán. Peru’s highest peak had not been reached outside the months of June, July and August till the Alaska Andean Expedition reached its 22,205-foot south summit on the Ides of March. David P. Johnston, Peter H. Robinson and I left commercial...

Mount Goode. Bill Fryberger and I climbed the couloir to the south of the northeast buttress on July 3, 1977 and exited between the main and southeast summits. The couloir provided a fine, sustained route of about 2000 feet mostly on hard snow wit...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EXTRICATION PROCEDURE Alaska, Mount McKinley, Ruth GlacierOn June 16, all six members of the French “Wayne’s World” expedition including Thomas Roques, Jean Jacques Peladeix, Jacqueline Peladeix, Michelle Pertuis, Je...

Taste the PaineThirty-four days alone on a big wall in Patagonia.Dave TurnerWiping the rime ice from my goggles, I could barely make out the glacier far below. I stepped higher in my aider, gaining a few inches onto the poor hook placement. “Don’t...

Fifty Years After- Aiguille VerteBradford WashburnDURING the summers of 1926 and 1927 my family stayed at Chamonix and in 1927 my brother and I made a number of excellent climbs, including the first complete traverse of the Arête des Rochassiers, ...

Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt and tragedy. South Tyrolean mountaineers, Alois “Luis” Brugger and Hans Kammerlander returned to 7,351m Pasang Lhamu Chuli, still intent, it seems, to make the “first ascent” of this peak formerly known as J...

1951-20102011Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaN.B.Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063Eas...

Ascent of the E. Face of Mt. Index. Visible from the Stevens Pass Highway (Washington State Highway 15) near the town of Index, the E. Face of the N. Tower of Mt. Index is a seemingly vertical 2300-ft. wall. In 1941 Fred Beckey and Tom Campbell su...

St. Elias Range, Various Ascents. On August 2, Tiffany Scrymgeour, Rafael Grana, Jon Webb, Chris Brick, Steve Sheriff, Kim Beatty, Brendan Beatty, Gray Thompson, Eloise Thompson, and I put on to the Tatshenshini River at Dalton Post, Yukon Territo...

Mt. Baker, Crater Route. An ascent of 10,100-foot Sherman Peak (the south peak of Mt. Baker) in 1959 gave us a view directly down into the summit crater separating us by ¾ of a mile from the 10,778-foot main peak. A traverse of the crater’s west r...

DAVID W. MEASUROLL1905-1966David W. Measuroll, retired vice president of the First Pennsylvania Banking and Trust Co., was born in Hightstown, New Jersey, on January 25, 1905. On September 26, 1966, while vacationing, he died suddenly at Dorset, V...

Longs Peak: The Story of Colorado’s Favorite Fourteener. Dougald MacDonald. Englewood, CO: Westcliffe Publishers, 2004.240 pages. Paperback. $24.95.From a speeding airliner high over the American West you gaze down upon many mountains. But even th...

SiulÁ ChicoThe first ascent of a huge ice wall in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru.JORDI COROMINASOutside in the urban night it is snowing. The cold wind howls intensely off the port. After dinner, without the help of either drink or smoke, our co...

Ayres Crag Number Five. The most outstanding crag wall above Cascade Canyon is about three miles along the trail and is known as Ayres Crag Number Five, Its startling, nearly vertical, 1100-foot-high profile identifies it. Its sheer south face had...

Hawaian Islands, Oahu, Koolau Range—On the morning of September 5, 1960 (Labor Day) the Reverend Irwin Jackson (30+) pastor of the Kaimuki Christian Church in Honolulu, led a picnic-hiking group of one adult and 12 teenagers into Manoa Valley in b...

Yosemite Valley, various activity. (Editor’s note: Several of the ascents mentioned in this summary, particularly new routes, appear in greater detail as individual reports below.) In 2001, Yosemite continued to be an arena of significant free-cli...

Cassin Route Variant—Mount McKinleyBENOIT RENARD, Club Alpin FrançaisOUR expedition landed on June 27 in Anchorage, where we spent the next day buying a little food and equipment, though most of it had been brought from France. On June 29, at Talk...