Istor-O-Nal, Northeast Summit, Attempt. Ten members of the Neuchatel Section of the Swiss Alpine Club attempted the unclimbed northeast summit (7276m) of Istor-O-Nal from the north. The only known previous attempt on this mountain was made by a Ja...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, North CascadesOn June 22,1986, Bob Richards (36) and I (36) had just climbed the West Ridge of Triad and were descending. We were off the pinnacle and could have descended a long easy route back to the hig...
Opportunities on Mount McKinleyBradford WashburnThere Are few pastimes more interesting to a desk-bound mountaineer than studying maps and pictures in search of new routes—even if it is evident that the chances are very low of trying any of them y...
Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. The members of a French expedition to Everest were Jean-Franck Charlet, leader, René Ghilini, Jacques Fouques, Guy Abert, Michel Flouret and Bruno Gouvy. They attempted to climb the south buttress but could reach only...
P 8815 and P 8798, Niut Range. On January 29 Kreig McBride and I made the first winter ascents of P 8815 and P 8798. The latter lies east of the former and both are due west of Tatlayoko’s northern end. We climbed from an igloo camp in the basin i...
Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak, first ascent; Zograf Peak, first ascent. Lyaskovets (62°39'48.5" S, 60°08'34.7" W) is a peak of elevation 1,473 m in the 30km-long Tangra Mountains situated on Livingston Island. It is bounded by Catalunyan Saddl...
The Nepalese-American Gaurishankar ExpeditionAl ReadALONG THE UTTERLY wild and vaguely defined Himalayan frontier between Nepal and Tibet rise the massive twin summits of Gaurishankar. One of the most beautiful and formidable mountains in the worl...
A Yob’s-Eye View of the Quimsa CruzRoger Whewell, Rucksack ClubI AM A YOB.1 Thus the height of aesthetic achievement is to drive to the foot of the cliff and overcome the crux by trampolining off the seat of one’s motorcycle. In fact with careful ...
Fanskiye Gory and Turkestanski Ranges. Nine Americans climbed in two mountain ranges in the Soviet Union in 1987. Carla Firey, Tom Hargis, Matt Kerns, Frith Maier, Jim McCarthy, Dan McNerthney, Jim Phillips and Bill Sumner from Seattle and I from ...
Our plan was to repeat existing routes but also climb new ones in the Kara-su valley. For our new route we chose the east face of the nameless tower directly opposite Asan; its altitude is ca 4,000m. [This wall is now known as the Silver Wall.] We...
In Highest Nepal: Our Life Among the Sherpas, by Norman Hardie. London: Allen and Unwin, 1957. 191 pages; ills.; maps. Price 21s.This book is the account of living with Sherpas in the high Nepalese valleys of Solo Khumbu, just south of Mount Evere...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (1)—On June 5, 1954, Earl F. Harvey (20) and Joseph Biwell were descending Long’s Peak. Harvey slipped on steep snow and fell down Zumie’s Chimney and the left Dove. He was killed by the fall. The party had n...
SNOW LIP/BRIDGE COLLAPSE—FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE BELAY, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 4, 1992, Mugs Stump (41)—a guide for Mountain Trip—and his clients Nelson Max (40) and Robert Hoffman (45) began climbing the 1965 Japanese Ramp Ro...
Nuptse Tragedy. The aim of the Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition was to climb that mountain as a final work-up and testing ground for our next spring’s expedition to Mount Everest. Nuptse was our second choice, the first bei...
Skyang Kangri, west face attempt. The first attempt on the west face of Skyang Kangri (7,545m) was made in 1980 by Michael Kennedy and Jeff Lowe, who reached ca 6,600m. In July 2008 a Russian expedition made a second attempt. The team included Ale...
Antarctica-Why?Henry S. Francis, Jr. and Robert W. MasonIntroductionIn 1965, the United States will have completed ten years of continuous activity in Antarctica. Thousands of man-hours and millions of dollars have gone into this effort, and it is...
Cashan OesteJack Miller and H. Adams Carter Carter introduces the expedition:Life. is full of surprises. Several years ago, when I first visited Huaraz, I was amazed by an incredible ice spire that rose on the right of the arc of peaks of the Cord...
Khumbu, Peak 41, first ascent. In the middle of October a Slovenian expedition of six climbers made the first ascent of Peak 41 (6,654m). After an acclimatization on Mera peak, Ales Kovac and Bostjan Jezovsek found a reasonably good approach to th...
In July and August our 14-member Polish expedition climbed eight new peaks from what we believe to be a previously unexplored valley in the Koh-e-Ak Su mountains of the Little Pamir, immediately east of the lower Wakhjir Valley. Half the expeditio...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. We were Davorin and Luka Kamicar, Sandi Marincic and I. On June 13, we left Chilas for Base Camp, accompanied by 23 porters. We reached it four days later. In Base Camp there was a Korean expedition, which had been there for ...