Witch’s Tits, New Route. It was reported that Randy Rackliff and Bill Belcourt climbed the 1500-foot west face of the unclimbed, outermost spire of the Witch’s Tits in about 16 pitches in one long day and night. The pair had hoped to climb the 6,5...
STRANDED, DARKNESS, POOR PLANNINGColorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle RockOn October 24, Gary Hansen (54) and his daughter Kate (17) became stranded on Castle Rock on a ledge 200 feet up the East Face after dark as they attempted to rappel. A rescue c...
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1988-9. Our expedition consisted of Maciej Berbeka, Piotr Konopka, Dr. Roman Mazik, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, Wtodzimierz Stoinski, Stanistaw Szczerba, Zbigniew Terlikowski and me from Poland, Krzysztof Szafra...
Broad Peak, Central Summits. A Polish expedition from Wroclaw consisted of 15 climbers under the leadership of Janusz Ferenski. Their Base Camp was established at 16,400 feet on the Godwin Austen Glacier on June 30. The route followed the Austrian...
Campanile Esloveno, Northeast Face, and Torre Astilla, Catedral Group, Bariloche. Dinko Bertoncelj of the Club Andino Bariloche and José Luis Fonrouge of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Campanile E...
Ngozumpa Kang II, west face, Bearzi death. Two Americans, Mike Bearzi and Bruce Miller, planned to make the first attempt on the northeast face of 7,952m (26,089') Gyachung Kang, which is on the Tibetan border between Cho Oyu and Everest. But befo...
Shawangunk Rock Climbs. Dick Williams. The American Alpine Club Press. New York, 1991. Volume One: The Trapps. 346 pages. 55 black-and-white photos. $25.00. Volume Two: The Near Trapps. 218 pages. 28 black-and- white photos. $20.00. Volume Three: ...
Devil’s Thumb. In Climbing of January-February, 1978 there is the report of the first ascent of the pillar which divides the northwest face of the Devil’s Thumb, made between August 16 and 19 by Bob Plumb and David Stutzman. This Grade VI, 5.9 cli...
FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Moat Lake, Mt. Bastion. Dave Morris was leading Roman Babicki and Rene Torn up a small gully on Mt. Bastion at 10:30 a.m. on August 2 using two 11 mm ropes with a view to belaying both Babicki and Torn at the same ti...
Dome Kang (Domekhan) (7,264m), first attempt. On Nepal’s border with Tibet, a six-member team of Spaniards were the first people to attempt a route on Dome Kang [see note below]. Its official name is Domekhan. Led by Carlos Soria, they made their ...
Nanga Parbat’s Mazeno Ridge and Accident. Pole Wojciech Kurtyka and I hoped to try the Mazeno Ridge to the top of Nanga Parbat. We were joined on acclimatization climbs by Richard Cowper. On July 25, we arrived at Tarshing and for three days accli...
Chaukhamba I Attempt. During September and October 1995, a British team consisting of Steve Adderley, Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp, Paul Monico and Simon Yearsley attempted the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Chaukhamba (7138 meters) in the G...
“La Fiamma”. The first ascent of this spectacular pinnacle was made on September 23 by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and me. “La Fiamma”, named by our party, is near the end and just west of the ridge leading south from Packrat. From the notch between ...
Hamilton Lakes Region. We had three days of vacation left, and the fine pinnacles and domes in the region of Hamilton Lake persuaded us to leave by way of that area. The ridge between Hamilton Lake and Eagle Scout Creek has some ten pinnacles on i...
Appalachian Mountain Club. In 1989 the Appalachian Mountain Club continued to maintain over 1,000 miles of hiking trails in the northeastern U.S., dozens of back-country campsites and shelters, and various public workshops in hiking leadership and...
Greenland, North-South Traverse, Solo. After his trip to the North Pole, Naomi Uemura left the northern tip of Greenland, Kap Morris Jesup, on May 12 with 16 dogs. He traveled up Independence Fjord to reach the Icecap. He got to Narssarssuaq near ...
Fisher Towers Area. Mike Baker soloed the northwest corner of River Tower, correcting its rating to III 5.8 C2. On the 900-foot Titan, Steve Haston, partnered by his wife, French alpinist Laurence Gouault, made the first clean (C3, hammerless) asc...
Langtrang Himal. The original intention of the Langtrang-Himal Anglo- Swiss Expedition had been to climb Ganesh Himal, but this seemed impossible owing to the shortage of time and difficulties over the route taken by Raymond Lambert in 1955. We we...
André Roch 1906-2002The 20th of November saw the passing of one of the great mountaineers of our time: André Roch. Engineer, avalanche and snow expert, high mountain guide, father, oil painter, and author were some of his many accomplishments. He ...
Fitz Roy. In December of 1976 Ruedi Homberger, René Major, Paul Muggli and Jean Troillet, Swiss, climbed the American route on Fitz Roy in four days. In late January Mike Weiss and the Frenchman Jean Afanassief made a 19-hour ascent of the Super C...